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01 dually stalls in reverse

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Old Oct 29, 2020 | 11:56 PM
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01 dually stalls in reverse

Have an 01 dually and occasionally when placed in reverse it’ll stall or big down extremely low rpms to an almost stall. Tested pressure in the trans and came back normal. Replaced the transmission range sensor and shift linkage but still nothing. Filter and fluids been done but that’s it
 
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Old Oct 30, 2020 | 10:35 AM
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Usually stalls or bogs down when there’s a slight incline and wants to die out.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2020 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Lockholder
Tested pressure in the trans and came back normal.
Was it running normally or trying to stall when you tested the pressure? If it's working normally of course the pressure will be fine. What does pressure do when it stalls or bogs?

Originally Posted by Lockholder
Replaced the transmission range sensor and shift linkage but still nothing.
Why? Just for fun? Neither of these could cause stalling.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2020 | 07:40 PM
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Haven’t had it stall when the gauge was hooked up to it. It always tried stalling and bogging down. The other things changed was because they were held on by zip ties and not secure properly
 
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Old Nov 2, 2020 | 10:21 PM
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Could it be an fuel issue? Or trans issue
 
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 05:45 AM
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Does it happen when the shift lever is moved or once the transmission has shifted and started to move? A fuel issue is possible I suppose. A pressure test might help confirm or deny. I would would have a look at the IPR as well. Checking the tin nut and pigtail real well, ICP sensor too.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by udsuth78
Does it happen when the shift lever is moved or once the transmission has shifted and started to move? A fuel issue is possible I suppose. A pressure test might help confirm or deny. I would would have a look at the IPR as well. Checking the tin nut and pigtail real well, ICP sensor too.
shifter and started to move. Once the shift lever is locked Into reverse. Pressure said everything was fine. Didn’t try to stall or bog down when the gauge was hooked up. Ipr is brand new and replaced same with ICP. Injectors are as well. I know there’s a code saying my injectors are bad and a code saying my valve cover gasket harness is bad. But would that cause reverse to act up?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Lockholder
shifter and started to move. Once the shift lever is locked Into reverse. Pressure said everything was fine. Didn’t try to stall or bog down when the gauge was hooked up. Ipr is brand new and replaced same with ICP. Injectors are as well. I know there’s a code saying my injectors are bad and a code saying my valve cover gasket harness is bad. But would that cause reverse to act up?
I assume you've heard or read that only Motorcraft sensors for these engines. Hopefully that's what you replaced the IPR and ICP sensors with. Bad valve covers or injector harnesses can definitely cause problems. Do you have hey compatible scan device or McDonald with one of the apps for your phone? With that you can do some self diagnostics and run injector Buzz test to confirm the PCM is at least communicating with each injector. I also know firsthand that wiring on these engines is very important and can be the cause how many Gremlins so if you haven't thoroughly inspected the plugs and harness both IPR and ICP valves I recommend giving it a look
 
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 09:36 AM
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Did you check the ATF level on flat ground and while the engine is warmed up and running? Cauz if ATF is low, the torque converter clutch is locked and will cause the engine to bog down. Plenty of knowledge on this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=4r10...hrome&ie=UTF-8
 
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Old Nov 4, 2020 | 03:24 PM
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Scribing to this one because I have been dealing with this for years. Literally. Won't do it every time, but normal will be driving for 45 minutes to an hour or two, stop to turn around, put in reverse and dies. Or will act like tc locked, shudder and shake and back up way faster than usual. This last summer did it to me in drive after driving for a while, lots of up and down and curves. Came up to a light and here we go. Had to put in neutral till light changed. Have been back and forth with fluid, etc. Not low and yes to the warm and running. Also has done this with both Hydra and DP tuners. Position of shifter doesn't seem to effect it. Only thing left is pressure gauge, will have to get a long hose and drive until it acts up, which could be a while. So, let's say it does show low pressure? Trans will have to come out correct Mark?
 
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Old Nov 4, 2020 | 06:08 PM
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I would check batteries and terminal connections. I had kind of a similar problem but in drive and it turned out something tranny related needed 13+ volts to operate correctly, I replaced both batteries, the whole batterie harness, alternator and belt!
It would happen on and off, could never recreate the environment to Make it happen, usually on an incline from a stop.
Also as they said 👆🏻You really need Ford Motorcraft IPR and ICP!
good luck!
Let us know what you find!
 
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Old Nov 4, 2020 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by trekbasso
So, let's say it does show low pressure? Trans will have to come out correct Mark?
Yep.......
 
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Old Nov 6, 2020 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by udsuth78
I assume you've heard or read that only Motorcraft sensors for these engines. Hopefully that's what you replaced the IPR and ICP sensors with. Bad valve covers or injector harnesses can definitely cause problems. Do you have hey compatible scan device or McDonald with one of the apps for your phone? With that you can do some self diagnostics and run injector Buzz test to confirm the PCM is at least communicating with each injector. I also know firsthand that wiring on these engines is very important and can be the cause how many Gremlins so if you haven't thoroughly inspected the plugs and harness both IPR and ICP valves I recommend giving it a look
shop already went through with the computer etc. injectors fine
 
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Old Nov 6, 2020 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by DeskDrawer
Did you check the ATF level on flat ground and while the engine is warmed up and running? Cauz if ATF is low, the torque converter clutch is locked and will cause the engine to bog down. Plenty of knowledge on this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=4r10...hrome&ie=UTF-8
checked and changed atf multiply times. All good. Looking at torque issue if one
 
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Old Nov 6, 2020 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Ford Firefighter
I would check batteries and terminal connections. I had kind of a similar problem but in drive and it turned out something tranny related needed 13+ volts to operate correctly, I replaced both batteries, the whole batterie harness, alternator and belt!
It would happen on and off, could never recreate the environment to Make it happen, usually on an incline from a stop.
Also as they said 👆🏻You really need Ford Motorcraft IPR and ICP!
good luck!
Let us know what you find!
IPR and ICP are motor craft and brand new. Batteries are new red tops. Belt and tensioner are brand new. Alternators (dual) came up with codes so that may be an issue?
 
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