Thanks, I saw at least one of those threads already. Unfortunately it still doesn't match my setup. I can only see what looks like a toothed nut with holes in it that I was able to rotate a little by hand, but would need a multi-pin socket or something to continue to turn. Coincidentally, the whole nut all the way to the large surface pressing up against the bearing appear to be one piece rather than multiple.

 

After digging deeper, it looks like you were right. I think the truck had auto hubs originally and were swapped to manual, but retained the auto spindle nuts. Is this workable or should I replace the spindle nuts with more traditional manual nuts?

Time to pick up a 2-1/2 spindle socket on the way home. Although as I probably won't do a lot of off-roading, I am tempted to find a set of auto hubs and convert back...

 

If it were me, I'd be converting it to the Manual Hub style retaining hardware. But obviously it works fine if you use the hardware that's in there.

 

I wish I could say that. We purchased the truck in a non-running or driving state so 4x4 is untested. Also, the lock clip thingy was broken into 3 pieces when I pulled the existing manual hub off...

 

I thought it looked like the lock clip was missing, hard to tell in pictures on line sometimes…. Glad you got if figured out.

I have no experience with these years of auto hubs, only later SD with vacuum system - They were a pain and needed to be disassembled annually, and remove the cap etc to lube the orings…. After a couple years of that, I replaced with a set of manual hubs.

I don’t know about changing the locking hubs out either, there must have been a reason for the different hub internals? I can’t comment either way, haven’t been there personally.

Trucks looking good, looking forward to more updates! You’re making good progress.

 

Well, the 2-1/2 thin wall socket did the trick. got the nut out with ease. Fortunately it looks like the P.O. (or somebody) did wheel bearings at some point with Timkens. They look in good enough shape I think I am just going to clean them out, repack with good grease and reuse them.

Definitely looks like the truck had Auto hubs at one point and someone did a manual conversion but kept the Auto spindle nut. The lock half-ring was broken when I took the hub out, so I wonder if i NEED to get manual spindle nuts or if I can get away with another locking half-ring and re-use the auto spindle nut. Parts stores want $45 - $90 for EACH SIDE for replacement manual spindle nut sets. That's pretty pricey if the Auto nuts will work with a new locking half-ring. Grease also looked like it had gotten some water in it or was just plain old. I think new seals are in order at a minimum.

 

ok failure to read. its $90 for a set of new lock nuts. Still not cheap, when combined with a refresh kit of lock rings and seals. At that point, it may be cheaper to just buy another set of manual hubs...

 

The right tools make all the difference.
Its taken 2 days to get one side apart, torch, sledge hammer, air chisel, nada. Finally get a ball joint fork, and the sucker comes apart in less than 2 minutes. 45 minutes later, the drivers side is completely apart. Someone has definitely been in the front end before. There is a slip joint boot clamp missing on the passenger side axle. great for disassembly, but I wager I need to clean the joint out and find a way to clamp the boot back on when I reassemble later. I probably need to change from glass blasting media to slag to clean up the brake shields, knuckles and axles. Next up is pulling the front diff to do its axle seals as well.

 

Found that my heater manifold thingy isn't in great shape. Probably going to source a new one, even though they aren't cheap. Also got the diff pulled and glad I did! there was definitely a good bit of water in the diff, but it looks like there was enough oil in there to keep things from rusting. Someone definitely has been in this diff before. I am seriously thinking of drilling the case for a drain plug while its out. Lastly got the front TTB axle pivot bushing installed as well

 

Got quite a bit done. Cleaned the diff, added a drain plug; M12x1.75 as I couldn't find any magnetic 1/4 NPT plugs. I did have to shorten the drain plug, re-drill and jb-weld the magnet back into it, but it has a good 1/4 or so clearance to the ring gear. Cleaned up and replaced the U joint on the right inner axle. Had some trouble as I didn't realize the yokes were as malleable as they are. Had to tweak one back straight to get the clips in correctly. Afterwards, I was able to mount the diff back in the truck (gasket with a thin film of RTV on both sides). It was a bit of work to clean the old RTV and grease dirt from the axle/front cover. I temporarily have the driver side axle in to keep moisture out of the diff. Also got one axle spindle cleaned up and ready for reassembly. Needle bearing looks fine and since I don't have the right tool to remove it, I will be re-packing it with Ford XG-11 grease and new seals.

Lastly got the new F25o spring on the drivers side installed. Definitely looks like a better spring to go along with the extra leaf rear springs.

 

you can try a company called Flagsgip one. I ordered a ecu from them but have yet to install, they ask for a bunch of your trucks info as far as asking for pic of vin number you might call them and see if THEY can get what your after

 

I'll take a look at them. I have two Auto MAF 5.8 ECUs to try now as well,

Spent a good bit cleaning and prepping the knuckles and the rest of the front axles for final install.
Also got the front dampers in and started getting the front left installed for when the knuckle is ready.

 

As I get closer to installing the motor, I have been doing some research and thinking about teh ECU situation. I am still inclined to do a MAF swap, however I have found a few potential hurdles.

Below are the current parts accumulated/given info
1) Truck is currently wired for a 5.0 SD with a manual trans
2) I have two ECUs and a (I believe) 5.0 F150 MAF harness from the ECU forward.
2a) First ECU was from what I thought was a 95 E150 van that DID have a 5.8, but turns out its from a 96 (GIN3, EEC-V, F6UF-12A650-KD). As this is EEC-V/OBD-II it is least usable/desirable for a MAF swap from current research.
2b) Second ECU is from a 94-95 F150 5.0 automatic MAF truck, (HUG2, EEC-IV, F4TF-12A650-APC). Regretfully I did not take a picture of the calibration decal on the door jam and the truck is long gone from the junkyard.

Possible hurdles identified so far
1) Re-pinning or replacing the engine harness for the MAF ECU shouldn't be an issue. I have to be careful of the body wiring i believe
2) Since the HUG2 ECU was an auto (AODE or E4OD, not sure which), I believe I have to do some shenanigans to get the ECU to think its in gear all the time. I have seen reference to using resistors to provide the ECU the correct voltage, but nothing further on how to do that
3) There is the possibility that the HUG2 ECU, even as a MAF system, may not be able to fully handle the 5.8 with GT40 heads, 35-512-8 cam, 1.7 rockers and exhaust. Further research leads to very few ECUs that fit the combo I have (manual, mild-ish plus 5.8), and are very difficult to find (BIO0 bronco ECU, or cali spec 5.8 MAF trucks that were still autos only I believe)

I am still thinking of at least getting the engine started on the 5.0 SD setup, then swapping to the 5.0 MAF setup. From further searching, it sounds like even the 5.0 MAF will have trouble above 4000 despite its adaptability.

Questions remaining:
1) Are there any other "readily available" 5.8 MAF ECUs that would better fit this combo?
2) If so, since most will be automatics, are there ways to fool the ECU around the automatic PRNDL/MLPS switch to better work with a manual? (possibility of minor RPM flaraes on shift from what I have read).
3) While TwEECer/QH/Moates are around, their cost seems a bit high for these older setups and seem somewhat limited. Are there other options or are standalones the next jump from there?

 

For starters, as far as i have been able to find, there never was a MAF 5.0 or 5.8 manual eec4 for trucks. Possibly for the rare 5.8 6 speed cobra but there were what... 500 of those?
i think you just put the mlps in neutral and go from there for a manual swap. Other than that, maybe look for a maf 5.8 with a c6 trans, but pretty sure that falls under unicorn/manual trans section.

 

That's essentially what I had gathered so far. I think I just have to see if the 5.0 MAF system is able to adjust enough for the mildly modified 5.8. Luckily it will be a daily or mild tow/haul rig, and not a race truck, off-road toy or heavy hauler.

On the MLPS thing, I have a manually wired truck and I am trying to figure out how to fool an Auto PCM to believing it is in gear.