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I'm sure there are a number of threads on this website regarding this but since the search tool is not very user-friendly I had to ask again. I have the 6637 filter mod and now that it's getting cold here in Wisconsin, what are the criteria for high idle to kick in? I left the air temp sensor from the stock airbox right next to the filter in the fender well btw. So far even at 35 degrees it has not kicked in yet, neither has my EBPV. Is there something wrong or just not cold enough yet?
These OBS trucks did not have the high idle without the high idle control. There is one on EBay now, but I can't get it to link. Search 7.3 high idle and it will come up. If you have a chip, they can program in a high idle into it.
These OBS trucks did not have the high idle without the high idle control. There is one on EBay now, but I can't get it to link. Search 7.3 high idle and it will come up. If you have a chip, they can program in a high idle into it.
Interesting, does the EBPV fall into the same category or is that determined by some other parameters?
Could be a problem with ebpv sensor or connection. They're known to leak and fail if not kept up on and get stuck in the open position I believe.
Some will disagree but between a high idle position on the hydra/TS chip and a block heater, the ebpv isn't needed for 90% of the guys out there. Most that swear by the ebpv are probably using it as an exhaust brake for towing. Definitely food for thought for keeping it if you think you'll need it.
Could be a problem with ebpv sensor or connection. They're known to leak and fail if not kept up on and get stuck in the open position I believe.
Some will disagree but between a high idle position on the hydra/TS chip and a block heater, the ebpv isn't needed for 90% of the guys out there. Most that swear by the ebpv are probably using it as an exhaust brake for towing. Definitely food for thought for keeping it if you think you'll need it.
I will probably end up using a delete pedestal after my original starts leaking, if it didn't just start already since I now noticed my truck leaks oil as it never did before
I will probably end up using a delete pedestal after my original starts leaking, if it didn't just start already since I now noticed my truck leaks oil as it never did before
If you're on a tight budget you can delete the ebpv and keep the same pedestal and outlet. I have pics of it in my build thread. Others have cut the cylinder away and welded the ports shut too. Nothing special about plugging it up. I cut the rod and left the guts in since there are possibly drain back issues. This is an old sterling 10.25 flange bolt and nut sealed up with RTV. No turbo oiling issues or leaks 18 months later after doing this.
If you're on a tight budget you can delete the ebpv and keep the same pedestal and outlet. I have pics of it in my build thread. Others have cut the cylinder away and welded the ports shut too. Nothing special about plugging it up. I cut the rod and left the guts in since there are possibly drain back issues. This is an old sterling 10.25 flange bolt and nut sealed up with RTV. No turbo oiling issues or leaks 18 months later after doing this.
It looks like my budget will be determined by my newfound tranny problems, but if anything I buy the delete pedestal to save myself a headache of any drainback problems and call it a day. If I end up spending the money up front and save myself the headache down the road it'll be worth it, especially since the truck is getting repainted and some goodies early next spring
