Hey, long time listener first time caller,
Ive got a 97 f350 7.3 that I've done a lot of work to, thanks to this forum every time I hit a stumbling block. Pretty much everything in the engine has been done rehabbed or replaced. injectors, glow plugs, air filter, coolant, sensors, fuel pump, probably some other odds and ends I'm forgetting. I bought the truck with 265k on the odometer and have almost 300k on it now, including many trips across the country between Detroit, MI and Portland, OR with more on the horizon.

But I havent done anything with the suspension. When she was a highway queen the completely shot suspension was not an issue. Except for some roads where the bumpiness would enter some sort of feedback loop and continue for sometimes as long as 30 minutes. Fortunately I am not prone to seasickness.

It's gone on long enough, though, and I want to add a front hitch, so I have purchased the 2.25 PMF rsk for use with the super duty leaf springs, after some research here.

But I still have some questions about the final accessories. Basically I'm looking for input on what shocks to go with, and what code springs to use. I've done a lot of reading on the topic, but since people aren't usually too specific w what they use the truck for, how much weight they put on it, there's still some clarification that would be helpful.

I was looking at u-codes but both Trevor and Jr at ATSsprings have steered me away from them, because on these cross country trips I am at max gvwr and probably inching up on gawr if I am being honest. Most of the weight is due to the camper which is 2500 lbs, a 10 ft 2005 alaskan. I have a stock bumper but will be adding a front hitch to haul a few mountain bikes with.

I am leaning toward the V codes myself, but both parties have indicated that X may be a better way to go considering the weight sometimes involved. I guess I'm looking to be talked out of this. Ride quality is not a big deal to me, but I dont want to add too much more lift to the truck out of consideration for my dog, among other things.

So that brings me to shocks. I have been set on 5100s for a long time, but I am now considering 5150s for being able to customize the valving, and possibly something like the rancho 9000s that I can adjust.

I guess it boils down to this:
For half of the miles on this truck, I've got a 2500lb camper on it, it's loaded to the gills, and I'm going up forest trails finding the most remote campsites I can. Everything is near max capacity.
For the other half, I'm doing general carpentry errands w the truck and it's probably only got minimal weight, maybe 1000 lbs between the cab and the bed. It's essentially unloaded.

For what it's worth I do occassionally tow a trailer, sometimes even with the camper, to pick up woodworking machines, but only very rarely would it weigh more than 5-6k loaded.

Right now I am thinking that V codes with adjustible shocks might strike a nice balance, but I do suspect that the adjustment might be one of those nice ideas that in practice gets set once and basically forgotten. In that case choosing valving on the 5150s would perhaps be a better alternative, but again the path of least resistance would be to just stick w the 5100s and call it good. Which I am okay to do, I just would rather ask all the questions now then have to tweak all this down the road a second time around.

Thanks!

 

Have you considered something like this:
https://www.suspensionconnection.com...-air-bags.html
Hobo

 

Hey, yeah air bags are on the list. I was going to go with ones like these: I believe the major difference is that these are "on frame" and not using tangs? The link you supplied says its for 1999 and up models but could work for the obs as far as I know. I would gladly take airbag recommendations as well while I'm at it.

 

I did the same PMF kit about a year ago, 2.25" and Superduty springs. I used ATS; I think the "stock" spring code which I guess would be U-code, but am not hauling as heavy as you. The ride and handling improvement was immediately obvious, but I'm running light loads. I reused my stock-height Rancho 9000s, but probably should re-adjust them as the ride may now be underdamped.

One definite, is use both the PMF drop pitman arm and drop track bar bracket, or equivalents. I recollect there was some odd interference without the drop track bar bracket, and drop track bar bracket without drop pitman arm led to some vigorous highway bump steer. I also replaced the spring U-bolts, and I think the Superduty springs requires different diameter spring eye bolts.

I was somewhat disappointed with the receiver option on the PMF kit. The crossbar that the receiver tube is mounted on is rather small outside dimension, maybe only 1.25". Compare against typical rear frame-mount receivers, the crossbar is 2" or maybe larger. I would be hesitant about putting much load on the front receiver lest it buckle or twist. Although a few mountain bikes are relatively light, they're on a long lever arm, so maybe something to keep an eye on. But if you have some basic fab and welding skills, it should be easy to beef up that crossbar for the receiver.

For just plain wrenching skills, this isn't a terribly difficult project. The biggest issue is a lot of heavy things, that need to get persuaded into alignment to go back together. If you're doing it on a lift and have a jack to handle the axle, shouldn't be much of a problem. I did mine "on the ground", and had issues with jack and jackstand heights. You need to get the front of the frame high enough to be able to fully droop the new front springs and axle, and still get a jack and some kind of stand under them. While the front axle is dropped and on stands, you're going to have to nudge the axle into place to get the spring eye and track bar bolts to line up for reassembly. So basically you need a tall jack and stands to get the frame high enough to fully droop the springs and axle, including the new springs and extra 2.25" droop from the RSK, coupled with jack and stands short enough to handle the axle at however close it ends up to the ground. To persuade things into alignment, I had good luck using ratchet tie-down straps as come-alongs to nudge the axle into place and get bolts aligned.

I did have an issue that 1 of the 3 mounting bolts on each side of the PMF kit had no clearance to my Banks intercooler. My solution was to relocate the problem bolt on each side to another frame hole, requiring some drilling on the PMF mounting flange. The new bolt locations wasn't "spread out" on the mounting flanges as well as the intended location, so I bolted things up then welded the flanges to the frame where I could access the joints.

 

Nice I appreciate the tips! That is interesting about the reciever tube. I'll confirm my intentions with Trevor regarding capacity. I have a harbor frieght 3ton lift, ample ground space, small 3 ton jacks, and larger 6 ton jack stands. Then impact guns, impact sockets, and regular socket sets. I anticipate it being a bit of a wrestling match, would much rather be doing this job in comparitively warm Oregon, but I put it off and now it will be on the hopefully above freezing ground in Michigan.

 

Get some work mats to put down. I've used old vinyl signs to slip around under the truck, but you might want to consider interlocking foam mats. Usually 30 x 30 or so, dovetail "puzzle pieces" on the edges. Bright colors marketed as kid's playroom floor safety floor mat, dull colors as anti-fatigue floor mat. Softer and warmer than concrete, easy to hose off, easy to slither around on, drier and cleaner than dirt or grass. Usually about $20 for for 6 sheets.

And don't forget good eye protection. You'll be disturbing lots of nasty gunk that will fall on you.

 

There is a beefed up crossbar option on PMF for a little extra $

I went with Xcode and Rancho 9000 shocks. Lifetime warranty on the shocks, can't beat that. Ride is still way improved over the stock TTB (97 F250) setup.

I think you have a good list of options and mods, you'll be happy with whatever you choose. Having said that, if both the experts are saying Xcodes, you might want to go with their recommendation.

 

PMF with 2" receiver already has the heavier crossbar. I recollect that they sell the "standard" crossbar with tow loops, but not with receiver. But the heavier crossbar is still quite a bit smaller than the crosstube on a frame-mount receiver. If you're going to add some extra steel, the time to do it is off the truck, but after a fit-check on the frame. I'm very happy with the full PMF & ATS setup, just concerned that the crossbar is light for really heavy use of the receiver. The tow loops are close to the frame mounts and won't have as much leverage on the crossbar, so I'm not concerned about those.

Even if your ride is stiffer with X-code springs, your steering stability and accuracy should be much improved with the shackles on the rear pivot.

 

I will put a call into Trevor tomorrow to see what he says about the weight the receiver can handle. In all my reading I dont recall coming across it. I do know that he said the tow hooks could handle "about 500 lbs". The weight of the bike hitch is about 30 lbs, and each bike is probably about that as well. But I cant rule out using heavier things in the future, so I would like to get a definitive answer on the capacity.

I guess I could also investigate a traditional frame mount front hitch that doesnt utilize the rsk? I havent really looked underneath to see where the respective styles would mount.

 

If all you're ever going to do is put a bike mount on the front, you're probably OK. Well, if it's a heavy folding 4-bike carrier with 4 heavy or electric bikes on it, the dynamic loads (ie, bumps) may get high with the long lever arm (think of a 4' cheater bar). And a hitch ball, recovery point, or winch and apply recovery loads... I would start to worry about bending the crosstube. I may be over-thinking this, but the frame-mount receivers I've seen have a much larger crosstube, and larger tubes are stiffer.

I suspect you can't put a standard front frame mount receiver on --and-- the RSK. Basically, they occupy the same space and mounting locations. Think of the RSK as a front frame mount receiver that also has spring pivot mounts. I think your choice is limited to RSD --or-- front frame-mount receiver. The PMF RSK crossmember should be simple to add some reinforcing from the frame cradles to the receiver tube, and easier off the truck than on. I didn't think of this until mine was already fully installed, so if I reinforce mine it will be done on the truck. You have an option to do some easier welding.

 

In the interest of helping future people looking to inform themselves, let me write this clearly so the search engines can appropriately catalog:

Trevor at PMF says that the front hitch on the PMF RSK for OBS with superduty springs is rated for approximately 500 lbs "in any direction".

 

I installed the 2.25" PMF RSK a few months back on my 97 F350 RC and Trevor is awesome to work with and helped alot with all my questions. I got the 5100 Bilstein shocks (Trevor's recommendation). I went with SD U-code springs from ATS. JR at ATS was great as well.
I wanted the best ride quality and don't haul or tow much other than my toys (bikes & ATV's) from time to time, so JR recommended the SD U-codes over the others for my application/desires.

BUT to be honest, I was a little disappointed in the handling of the truck once installed. It rides great (much better than stock) but the handling is a little sensitive at highway speeds when hit over-passes or dips in the road. Not terrible but not like the handling when it was stock.
I'm running 295/75/16 on my stock OEM factory Alcoa's. I love the stance and look now over the stock height but was hoping for better results across the board. I also had some minor tie rod roll in the beginning until I installed a 3" drop pitman arm, which solved that issue. I have thought about installing dual steering stabilizers but not sure if that will help or not!?

 

Ninedude, I used V code front springs with the PMF 2.25" kit. Also used their drop pitman arm, drop panhard bracket (w/ stock panhard bar), and the Bilsteins sold by PMF. The ride is way better than my TTB, but FYI I feel the shocks are on the soft side. Also, I can't comment on the front receiver, but I plan to add a winch bumper and am already thinking I should have gone with a stiffer spring than the V code.

Before my rear spring swap, I ran Airlift brand bags outside the frame. They were worth the price after the first trip with my camper. Are you doing rear springs too? I added 2002 B code rears and overloads out of a '90 350 to the top of the pack. The bed isn't on yet so I can't comment on ride/weight handling yet. I'm also looking to change to inboard airbags to run a gooseneck hitch. I'm hoping this combo will provide a really stable loaded ride without sacrificing comfort while empty. Hope that adds some food for thought.

Lastly, you ought to consider bumpstops with airbags. Either the factory style rubber thing or airbags with an internal one. This prevents the worry of bottoming out possibly ruining bags when they're empty.

 

You bring up some interesting points Hyampom.
Yes, I am absolutely considering a B code upgrade. I will probably add it into the order with ATS spring if they stock them.
The airbags I was looking at, the link is a few posts up, do those have bumpstops?

I am imagining that after I get the RSK done, I will order leveling blocks for the back with PMF -- Trevor advised to wait until I install the rsk so that we can confirm the block height necessary -- and there is an option for those blocks to include a tang, which I guess would open up some airbag options? Am I correct on all this?

 

This is the kit I used: Link

To answer your first question, I'm not sure about the ride-rites, though I imagine they'd advertise it if they also had internal bumps.

To answer your second question about the tang: I haven't seen a kit that sits on top of those, but there very well may be one. Also, even if the firestone kits don't have a bumper built in, you could space the stock rubber bump stop on the frame (which contacts the block tang at full compression) to protect the airbags from bottoming out when they're empty. In that case you'd want lift blocks with that feature.

Hope that answers what you were wondering?