2003 220,000 no tunes. Started with low icp code and multiple attempts to start hot or cold with oil pouring down the back of the engine. Replaced icp (covered in oil) and cleaned, new screen and orings on IPR (old screen was good with no debre).

After this, it was still taking multiple attempts to start with IPC in the 300's and IPR commanded to 85% until it would hit the 500 IP. Then it would fire off. On some occasions I would get the low IPC code (which it was) and Cyl #6 contribution. Once started, it would run fine except at WOT. WOT IPR would command to 85% and IPC would be 900. I would see 2200 IP while cruising around and with light pedal acceleration.

Changed out IPR with a new one. Fires off everytime now. Havent seen the cyl 6 contribution code again. Though still only getting 900 IP at WOT with 26 boost. My other 6.0 show 3000 IP w/ 79% IPR at WOT.

CTS at KOEO:


KOER @ idle:


According to my idle IPR%, I shouldn't have a HPO leak. Correct me if I'm wrong. With all this going on, my MPG has gone way down. Dont know if that is related or not.

The two things that I'm thinking are either:
1. LPOP is bad. I have pulled OEM filter and cap out and pushed down on check valve. Oil filter housing fills up quickly. Pulled lower regulator and no debre was found.
2. Weak/bad HPOP.

I was going to put a gauge on the LPO system this evening and verify that it is maintaining pressure. If thats good, does mean it's the HPOP? Any and all help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Baker

 

I think it does not necessarily have to be the HPOP. Apparently you have an incipient oil leak at high pressure/high rpm.
Have you already tested the HPO system with workshop air? Is it still the first HPOP?

 

I have not tested with shop air. Wanted to when I changed out IPR but didn't have the time and was going on hope. Lol.

From what I was told when I bought it, with 205,000 miles on it, it was the original engine and nothing major has been done to it. I did have to replace the water pump, oil cooler, and EGR cooler (dummied) since I've owned it.

 

Got home. Hooked up shop air in the IPR slot. Didn't hear anything major with ccv out and oil filler cap off standing over engine. Pulled oil filter and gurgle gurgle, gurgle..... put oil filter back in. Put ear at CCV port, nothing. Put ear at oil fill tube, can hear a little bit of air moving through that area.

 

With that diagnosis, looks like I'm going to need a HPOP (air coming back through the filter housing) and a couple sets of injector O-rings to start off with, correct?

Anybody used/have an opinion Bostech rebuild ones? Or better off getting a reman from ford? Would love the adrenaline one. At a cost of $300-$500 more, idk if I can justify it right now. Maybe later on when I make it a 600 rwhp motor. 😁

 

These HPOPs will leak air at low pressure even when they are good. Sounds like a possible standpipe leak or top injector/nipple cup leak if you are hearing leak down from passenger side through oil fill.
Can you put shop air to it with a 200# gauge, pressure up then isolate with shutoff valve and watch for leak down? A big leak will of course be a fast leak down. Some HPO leaks take hours on shop air and some never show because you must realize the HPOP is putting out thousands of psi while running. Basically what I’m getting at is shop air will show big leaks but the smaller ones can be tough. I like to use some 3/8” coolant hose about 24” long and stick one end in my ear and move the other around through the valve cover oil fill tube and see if you can hear anything better.

 

Not a fan of Bostech HPOPs.