Previously, I got code P0284, which is cylinder 8 balance/contribution code. I took out the oil rail and found the orings of the dummy plug and the stand pipe were ripped. So I put back the old non-upgraded dummy plug and stand pipe since the orings looked good to me.

I also took out the injector #8, disassembled and check everything to make sure orings are good and no contamination. The valve was not stuck, there wasn't any sign of dirty oil or gas. The needle wasn't stuck. I put everything back.

Ran idle for about 10 to 15 minutes no cylinder code until it warmed up. Then I got cylinder #2 balance code. After awhile, I shut down. When started up, I got both #2 and #8 balance code.

I checked oil, it was at low, so I filled up to the middle level. Took a 15 minutes high way drive. Few seconds, I pushed it to 3000 rpm just to make sure things are good.

The #2 cylinder balance contribution code went away.

Right off the high way, #8 cylinder code went away. But then it came back.

I plan to put back the old blue fuel spring (this one gives me 90 psi), and replace the fuel filter.

When warm, IPR is at 22% and ICP is at 580 psi. I thought that means little to no high pressure leak, but I am not sure. At 60 mph, the engine is at about 1800 rpm.

Turbo boost, FICM volt, oil temp, coolant temp all look good to me.
Should I do some more driving or any suggestion? I also got some body code (my bad that I didn't capture the code).

 

I also noticed there is no injector buzz KOEO when the car is already hot. That's when I just shut it down. The truck started up no problem right after that.

Does that mean there can be some wire chafe issue? I am not very good at finding wire chafe. I looked a bit, but couldn't find anything.

 

I swapped the FICM with another. At cold, it ran surprising well, very smooth.
However, when warm, injector #2 and #8 code came up again (P0266 and P0284). Interestingly, other codes are gone, other than P1000.
The IPR and ICP at warm idle is a bit odd to me:

587 PSI and 20%. I wonder if there are more than one issues at hand. Wire chafes or injectors. Also, ICP sensor may send a high signal causing IPR trying to lower it down, which causes low real ICP pressure and causes the injectors not running well. I checked and didn't see any oil around the sensor, but will swap it out to see why, since it's very easy to do.

The high pressure filter was torn when I opened it, so maybe the IPR is not 100%, even though I tried to clean it before without finding anything inside. So that maybe next swap also. I will have to be better at looking for wire chafing.

 

I don't know that you have any leaks with those readings on the IPR and ICP, that said you might want to have shop run IDS on the injectors to see what is really going on with those codes.
It starts up fine hot and cold? Then you are good on the oil side.

I think the injector buzz only functions at certain temps. If I am not mistaken it won't buzz warmed up since the spool valves are already hot.

 

Yes, start up fine both hot and cold.
That must be it.

 

I think I solved my problem. Today, I replaced the two injectors #8 and #2 and changed the fuel filter.. I was too tired to try one more time, by loosen the two injector coil screws (bolts/screws) to see if that works or not, since I tighten them real hard. It's very tiny, and only needs about 0.5 nm.

I put everything back and waited until it's fully warm up. There was no longer any balance/contribution code. The engine ran pretty good, no rough running even right at the start. I was careful cranking the engine two times, each about 20 seconds using the side wall cable to prime the oil for the oil rail. I also koeo several times to prime fuel.

I took it out to a highway and ran for about 20 minutes. No code. Drove around, filled more diesel. Went home, all good.

Oil temp is always set at 189. Coolant went up to 206 one time, but I found that I needed to fill about a gallon more, but that did answer my early question in my mind why I filled only 6 gallon and it appeared full. It was strange that it didn't come down before until now.

Thank you all for your help. This forum rocks! People are friendly and very knowledgeable.

Another shout of thank to Diesel tech Ron. RIP. Somehow right this morning, I saw a video of him saying the injector hold down clamps an have different size. It turns out that is true. The injectors hold down position are not the same of all injectors. The older model with 40 Torx using a different hold down than the newer one with torx 45. It's not just a different hold down, but comparing the two hold downs, one is definitely push down much more, visible o the eyes. Maybe even 1/16 to 1/32 of an inch.

I forgot to mention that I asked my son to remove the IPR valve connector for me. I flipped the left hand side cable up and check for any chafing. There was a little on the #2 connector. A metal cable was showing up. But it turns out the cable was some shield cable. The 4 wires inside are intact. I wrapped it back carefully. I also cut a very thick piece of plastic and tape to a bottom of the large wireloom next to it since it rest right on top of a bolt (not stud, but I was still being careful).

 

Glad you have got it running well.

Keep an eye on the coolant level, but these trucks are known to get air pockets when filling. Vacuum filling is best, but not essential.

 

Thanks. Really happy to get this over with so I can do other things to the truck.