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Just did front shocks yesterday and got to only one rear. Those top bolts are a PITA for access on the LF, and RR above heat shielding. They have probably been in the Mythic Dually Church Van since 1999 build date 74k miles ago.
The RF wasn't too bad, better access to the pin bolt on top. LF was 1/16th turn at a time, could not get a ratchet of any kind in there, finally remembered a cheap ratcheting 15mm offset box wrench and that helped. I did both fronts then one of my sons took over on the backs. He did not lube the top pin bolts up, big mistake. He finally broke the RR shock pin bolt off while turning the shock with a pipe wrench and holding the top nut. I put the broken bolt in the vice with ATF/Acetone and recovered the nut, but the bolt threads were seriously boogered. Lube would have helped ... some.
Learned a lesson, the young man did. Last night before knocking off he doused the remaining rear shock upper bolt with WD then DG lube. I'll douse it again today with ATF/Acetone before starting.
The shocks I got were $9 Gabriels on closeout at RockAuto. Had I known what a pain it is, I might have spent more. I plan to order +1" springs for the front one day soon.
Here is the MDCV before we painted the flares, when we still iived in burb hell. You can imagine how well we fit into surburia and the HOA just loved us. Not.
Let us know if any improvement on the ride. I'm thinking about some but I'm thinking of selling my van it so don't wanna go bananas with some expensive ones.
My front bump stops are well used. I'm pretty sure those were the original shocks, with 74k miles on them. They still held pressure, but were soft as heck.
There is access to the top bolt inside the van, you'll find a rubber plug in the floor, the only issue I ver had was the bottom bolt, it can break, has to be rewelded back on.
Regarding the stud pressed into the later years radius arms---those tend to break when removing the nut holding the shock to the radius arm. I've had a few of them break even after having soaked them with PB Blaster days in advance or using heat---they're exceptionally weak at the very end of the stud. When/if that happens the best solution is a Dorman 31001 replacement stud. Do be advised the necessary hole through the radius arm you'll drill needs to be very tight fitting, very little clearance required. Making the hole a bit too big has the shock wallowing the replacement stud and breaking off. BT, DT and am now facing replacing the radius arm or welding a patch plate to the existing part for a better fit.
When it comes to rear shocks if there's a under-frame mounted spare tire removing that for access to the top studs works well. If the existing shocks have a wrench lug below the top cross member a box end wrench works well---if not a reciprocating saw works well too.
Here's a video I found helpful regarding the left front shock on most E-Series: Lt Frt E-Series Shock
Regarding the stud pressed into the later years radius arms---those tend to break when removing the nut holding the shock to the radius arm. I've had a few of them break even after having soaked them with PB Blaster days in advance or using heat---they're exceptionally weak at the very end of the stud. When/if that happens the best solution is a Dorman 31001 replacement stud. Do be advised the necessary hole through the radius arm you'll drill needs to be very tight fitting, very little clearance required. Making the hole a bit too big has the shock wallowing the replacement stud and breaking off. BT, DT and am now facing replacing the radius arm or welding a patch plate to the existing part for a better fit.
When it comes to rear shocks if there's a under-frame mounted spare tire removing that for access to the top studs works well. If the existing shocks have a wrench lug below the top cross member a box end wrench works well---if not a reciprocating saw works well too.
Wish I'd seen that vid before starting. Oh well. As for the rear, we didn't have the spare tire in the way. Perhaps because it's a 15 seat model? The shocks angle forward so the nuts are not easily accessible from the rear.
My studs didn't break. We can weld here anyway. Multimatic 250, yeah baby!
Let us know if any improvement on the ride. I'm thinking about some but I'm thinking of selling my van it so don't wanna go bananas with some expensive ones.
Big improvement in the ride, no more bottoming out on our cattleguards. The Gabriels are not Bilstein quality, but worth a lot more than $9 they cost on Rock Auto
I just finished front sway bar bushings and rear air bags today on my 06. Shocks are next. Is that the duel wheel adaptor from Southwest Wheel?
The flares are from a guy in Houston. His business was called prosemidually, not sure if he's still around. Don't buy your adapters from him, he's flakey and he just resells them anyway. Buy them from the source and talk to the owner Lenny Stahl. He runs this company in Reno, and they can make pretty much any adapter you want https://www.motorsport-tech.com/specialss/truck/ford_s
Tell Lenny that Reno says hi and all 8 adapters we bought from him have been flawless.
The flares are from a guy in Houston. His business was called prosemidually, not sure if he's still around. Don't buy your adapters from him, he's flakey and he just resells them anyway. Buy them from the source and talk to the owner Lenny Stahl. He runs this company in Reno, and they can make pretty much any adapter you want https://www.motorsport-tech.com/specialss/truck/ford_s
I bought a set of their no-stud wheel spacers for a stalled project but I'd simply NOT buy from anyone else for any type wheel spacer or adapter! For something that important I'd NOT want cheap or affordable----the best in quality and engineering or nothing at all for me.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
