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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

3g alternator

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Old Oct 19, 2020 | 06:16 PM
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Muni
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3g alternator

Alright,

I'm sure I'm going to get some eye rolls for making yet another post about this but it is what it is. I've had some bad luck on this front (have learned alot in the process) and am hoping someone out here can give a actual answer.

I've yet to find anyone who successfully completed a 3G alternator upgrade on a 7.5L v8 460 gasser. My model year is 93'. Maybe I missed someone saying they did on one of the threads but I've read through them pretty thoroughly.

I first ordered an alternator from Rock Auto and I had the ear spacing wrong. Easy fix...I decided to go with the powermaster part# 57758 140amp alternator. Local parts store said it was a direct fit and fit it did. Perfect ear spacing and all that but after I installed it I wasn't getting good voltage and my battery light came on. So after an insane amount of dinking around and trying to adjust things I finally took the alternator back to have it bench tested and turns out it was defective.

So now my truck has been sitting for over a week not running. Power master said it would be two weeks before they could get me a new one. I felt like it was too expensive anyways so I just took the return and am now looking for something else.

Guy at the part store said this is the same size as the power master ear spacing and case wise, and I believe it is for an E350 with the 7.5L 460 motor.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/bbb+/+vision-oe,7761P57,alternator+/+generator,2412

Anyone ever install this in their f1/2/3 50?

I'm also looking to double check my wiring of the 3G alternator. I'm worried the power master one wasn't defective and I fried it or something and don't want to repeat that potential mistake. I am an HVAC tech and I have a lot of experience with both low and high voltage wiring/diagrams and what have you so I'm fairly confident i did it correctly especially considering how simple it is.

I cut the old harness out completely and bought a new three pin connector instead of reusing the old one (I initially reused the old one but swapped out new as I thought maybe it was the issue). I spliced the ignition wire off the harness to the existing ignition wire on the truck (green). I put the white wire (stator) to the stator terminal on the alternator and I put the yellow wire (sense) directly to the alternator post connection to the battery. I ran an in line 175 amp mega fuse from the alternator to the battery. I also sanded to bare metal the ground strap from the battery to the block and re did the connections. I did the same thing to the other grounds I could find (frame, body, etc). I also put in a brand new battery and I ran a ground from the battery to the alternator with 4 gauge wire. Does all of this sound right? The pulley on the power master was the same size as the OEM as well. So I'm thinking it really was defective.

If anyone out there can give me a black and white answer to this I'd really appreciate it. I've changed alternators in other vehicles but never had such an old truck before.

Thanks all.

 
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