'03 7.3 no start
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 77
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From: Springfield, Or.
'03 7.3 no start
hello
No start. Cranks good. No previous signs, not even trying to start. No engine check light.
Went out to the truck in the morning to change my glow plug relay, then the truck would not start. I pulled the fuel filter and it was totally clogged (black gummy). I pulled the bowl and cleaned it. I did not pull the lines but I looked and they are not spotless of course but looked ok. I opened the fuel drain to check to see if the bowl was filling and it was pressurized.
My next test is to remove a line going out of the bowl to the fuel rail to make sure that plastic tower piece in the filter bowl is working. I just don't trust that silly mechanism. However, in the meanwhile, I am hoping for other suggestions to check. and has anyone had one of those tower valve things go bad?
I don't have a code reader. but again, i had no symptoms and no check engine light.
No start. Cranks good. No previous signs, not even trying to start. No engine check light.
Went out to the truck in the morning to change my glow plug relay, then the truck would not start. I pulled the fuel filter and it was totally clogged (black gummy). I pulled the bowl and cleaned it. I did not pull the lines but I looked and they are not spotless of course but looked ok. I opened the fuel drain to check to see if the bowl was filling and it was pressurized.
My next test is to remove a line going out of the bowl to the fuel rail to make sure that plastic tower piece in the filter bowl is working. I just don't trust that silly mechanism. However, in the meanwhile, I am hoping for other suggestions to check. and has anyone had one of those tower valve things go bad?
I don't have a code reader. but again, i had no symptoms and no check engine light.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Springfield, Or.
fuse 30 is my high beams. fuse 105 is a 30 amp for ignition driver module and that fuse is fine. fuse 22 is also fine. . when i first turn on ignition the water in fuel light goes on for like 3 seconds and the glow plug light goes on for like 10 seconds.no fuel pressure guage. there is high pressure in the fuel bowl coming out just fine to the injector lines.
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From: Romance, AR
Did you check the voltage on the out side of the GPR to the plugs to make sure voltage was being sent thru the new relay? When was the last time the glow plugs were changed? As for the fuel bowl did you happen to check for fuel in the valley before you drained the bowl? One winter my 7.3 randomly would not start due to a metal fuel line that just so happens to rub on the pass side head .
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Springfield, Or.
yes
and that was not my problem with not starting. My truck will start with glow plugs not operational it may take some cranking but I've definitely been doing that to try to get it started.
and that was not my problem with not starting. My truck will start with glow plugs not operational it may take some cranking but I've definitely been doing that to try to get it started.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Springfield, Or.
I just checked. The tach needle does not move at all while cranking . I have also read this from the FTE forum:
....'02,3's and some '01's will not show cranking rpm (has to do with an electrical upgrade that changes how the CPS is read from the new, module, cluster).
....'02,3's and some '01's will not show cranking rpm (has to do with an electrical upgrade that changes how the CPS is read from the new, module, cluster).
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Springfield, Or.
you know what my friend??? i was going to do that. i did crank a long time and watched the oil pressure climb, but maybe i need to pull the plug and look. i did just do a partial oil change (changed my bypass oil filter) and afterwards it was quite low so i filled to the correct mark. i was thinking about that then talked myself out of it. can't hurt to check. (tomorrow. haha)
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Joined: Oct 2020
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From: High Rockies MT & CO
fuse 30 is my high beams. fuse 105 is a 30 amp for ignition driver module and that fuse is fine. fuse 22 is also fine. . when i first turn on ignition the water in fuel light goes on for like 3 seconds and the glow plug light goes on for like 10 seconds.no fuel pressure guage. there is high pressure in the fuel bowl coming out just fine to the injector lines.
Are you getting any smoke out the tail pipe?
if you haven’t I’d put the charger on the batteries since you’ve been doing so much cranking. You need 10.5 V to start it. You never did say if the fuel bowl heater was still connected? Did you try swapping the fuse out for a known good one...just in case? I’ve seen both a partial short That does not blow that fuse but prevents the truck from starting. Just to eliminate it from the equation, I would replace the fuse and unplug the heater and see if it starts… It’s simple and a cheap troubleshoot...
The filter presses the center plunger down, were you able to troubleshoot it?
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Springfield, Or.
no smoke. (no unburnt fuel) was not smoking the day before the problem (never has)
batteries are new and fully charged. I have the battery charger (start charger) hooked up because after a couple tries of course it's dead (I've tried many-many times now, of course it's on a charger)
batteries are new and fully charged. I have the battery charger (start charger) hooked up because after a couple tries of course it's dead (I've tried many-many times now, of course it's on a charger)
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Joined: Oct 2020
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From: High Rockies MT & CO
no smoke. (no unburnt fuel) was not smoking the day before the problem (never has)
batteries are new and fully charged. I have the battery charger (start charger) hooked up because after a couple tries of course it's dead (I've tried many-many times now, of course it's on a charger)
batteries are new and fully charged. I have the battery charger (start charger) hooked up because after a couple tries of course it's dead (I've tried many-many times now, of course it's on a charger)
Does the ICP sensor have oil in it?
Have you tried unhooking the ICP sensor so the PCM goes to default?
Is the tin nut on the IPR?
Regarding smoke...I’m referring to white smoke, No smoke no fuel
‘You haven’t mentioned if you checked the center stalk in the fuel bowl?
How full is the fuel tank, over 1/4?
NO START FLOW CHART BELOW
https://cpaddict.com/content/7.3nostartchart.pdf
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Springfield, Or.
thanks my friend, I know you are trying to help, i don't mean any disrespect (sometimes humor (exaggeration) can be mistaken, I know).
thanks for reminding me on the fuel bowl, the center stand should be working fine. I cleaned it all and tested for it's movement before putting a new filter in which does have the push-button lid so it should be working. Again, I will likely recheck anyway at this point.
on the ICP are you meaning if it has oil in the electrical connector? if so, then no, it's dry. Same with the IPR.
but hey, i have not unplugged the float bowl heater yet to try that (I was out of town all day) but my light does come on for 5 seconds and goes off and the fuse tests fine. I've wiggled and tested with ohm meter and switched with another similar fuse.
fuel level is good
the "smoke" yes, i do know about white smoke (unburnt fuel) and as I said, there is no smoke at all, not even last time it was running (no white smoke then)
IPR valve should be fine, it's fairly new. I have not had any symptoms like i had before, and yes it's all intact (don't know how that bolt could ever come off on its own)
I think that's it for the questions. Thanks for the flow-chart, I'll give that a look-see.
thanks for reminding me on the fuel bowl, the center stand should be working fine. I cleaned it all and tested for it's movement before putting a new filter in which does have the push-button lid so it should be working. Again, I will likely recheck anyway at this point.
on the ICP are you meaning if it has oil in the electrical connector? if so, then no, it's dry. Same with the IPR.
but hey, i have not unplugged the float bowl heater yet to try that (I was out of town all day) but my light does come on for 5 seconds and goes off and the fuse tests fine. I've wiggled and tested with ohm meter and switched with another similar fuse.
fuel level is good
the "smoke" yes, i do know about white smoke (unburnt fuel) and as I said, there is no smoke at all, not even last time it was running (no white smoke then)
IPR valve should be fine, it's fairly new. I have not had any symptoms like i had before, and yes it's all intact (don't know how that bolt could ever come off on its own)
I think that's it for the questions. Thanks for the flow-chart, I'll give that a look-see.
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Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 40
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From: High Rockies MT & CO
How full is the fuel tank? have you done any mods done to the tank? If you have less than a quarter tank and a pick up foot broke off you might be starving for fuel.
Yes there will be oil in the electrical connection on the ICP if it’s bad.
Yes there will be oil in the electrical connection on the ICP if it’s bad.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Springfield, Or.
tank is over 1/2. I've done the harpoon and hutch to the tank years ago. this is surely the sludge in the lines between the bowl and the injectors. but it's weird to me that it was running strong the day before.. not 1 hiccup (in years) then no-start in the morning.
but i do like checking things before i tear the top off the engine. but it's getting fuel just fine to the bowl now, as I've said.
today i was too busy to get to the truck (car problems now, and I need 1 to run)
but i do like checking things before i tear the top off the engine. but it's getting fuel just fine to the bowl now, as I've said.
today i was too busy to get to the truck (car problems now, and I need 1 to run)
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