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I have a 2010 E450 6.8 chassis on my Tioga Ranger motorhome. I recently began having fuel problems. After checking fuses, relays, etc. we determined it was the fuel pump and changed it out with an OEM replacement. It ran great for 200 miles and then began surging and stalled out. It would start intermittently but bog out when I stepped on the gas. Dropped the tank again and checked wiring and all seemed fine so we thought maybe we just got a bad pump. We replaced it again and are still having the same issue. Intermittent starting and no gas to the fuel rail. We’re stumped.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
edited to add: the “lifetime” fuel filter is part of the pump assembly.
Throwing parts at or into something without a full diagnosis is foolish----you're into this problem about $1,000 so far---and no change or cure?
How did you determine it was the the fuel pump alone causing your issues? Was fuel pressure tested at any time? Has the fuel pressure regulator been checked for proper operation? Are any DTC's shown as pending or stored in OBD-II?
Yes, I certainly agree that throwing parts at the problem is foolish, which is why I’m here. I’m not a mechanic, but I initially diagnosed the problem as a faulty fuel pump after checking fuses, relays and the inertia switch. I was unable to hear the pump priming and had no fuel pressure at the rail. A mechanic dropped the tank, checked the electrical and switched the pump for me. That’s when it ran for 200 miles and began having problems again. I used an Auto Zone OBD reader and nothing relevant came back. It went back to the mechanic, who assumed that we had gotten a faulty new fuel pump and it was replaced again. He now seems at a bit of a loss and I most certainly am too, so I am here looking for advice to pass on to the mechanic. I should also add that I live rural and there are not many options for repair that do not include a hefty towing bill at this point.
my 12 winnebago suffered much of the same and we did a pump replacement also. Still would not start, shop did a lot of other stuff trying to figure out the problem. BTW shop had all the ford diagnosis stuff on their computer as they worked on a contract which used fod vehicles. Anyhow a mech decided the only thing was to change out the pump relay with one from a dead lined vehicle. It worked on first try. We had not had any serious codes etc so it was find by trial thing. Be aware these can be expensive depending on where you purchase. some were $200+. oriely and ford were both less than $100. I now carry one as a spare.
my 12 winnebago suffered much of the same and we did a pump replacement also. Still would not start, shop did a lot of other stuff trying to figure out the problem. BTW shop had all the ford diagnosis stuff on their computer as they worked on a contract which used fod vehicles. Anyhow a mech decided the only thing was to change out the pump relay with one from a dead lined vehicle. It worked on first try. We had not had any serious codes etc so it was find by trial thing. Be aware these can be expensive depending on where you purchase. some were $200+. oriely and ford were both less than $100. I now carry one as a spare.
Are you you referring to the fuel pump relay located in the fuse box? If so, we tried swapping that with a identical relay that we knew was good. I’m a little confused though because that is a $25 part.
my 12 winnebago suffered much of the same and we did a pump replacement also. Still would not start, shop did a lot of other stuff trying to figure out the problem. BTW shop had all the ford diagnosis stuff on their computer as they worked on a contract which used fod vehicles. Anyhow a mech decided the only thing was to change out the pump relay with one from a dead lined vehicle. It worked on first try. We had not had any serious codes etc so it was find by trial thing. Be aware these can be expensive depending on where you purchase. some were $200+. oriely and ford were both less than $100. I now carry one as a spare.
Well, my friend, you nailed it! Replacing the pump driver module fixed the problem. It was a $60 part and took 5 minutes to switch out. This component was not on my mechanics radar, so your advice really helped out and I really appreciate it.
I also want to note (in case some other desperate person comes across this post) that the ford specs for ohms/amps were showing completely normal on the old module. Because we were so desperate and the part was relatively inexpensive I “strongly urged” that we just give it a try. No mechanic likes to take advice from a client. 🙂
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