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Fuel pressure

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Old Oct 4, 2020 | 03:59 PM
  #16  
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I think i did mine in 7/2019 as well ill look i have a post on here where i did my Hpop. When i did my hpop i did put in a new Blue spring kit. OEM from Ford They are getting exspensive on top of the work.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2020 | 08:56 PM
  #17  
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Mine was replaced in the fall of 2015 so it was four years old when it got replaced again last fall. I recall another discussion from late last year about blue springs, etc

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ing-off-4.html

Vis - If you replaced that blue spring last year you're entitled to a warranty replacement, assuming its a Motorcraft kit.

 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 12:28 PM
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Does anyone know if we can just get the poppet valve and seal, or just the seal? Strange they aren't resistant to diesel, since that is where they constantly live...
 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 01:06 PM
  #19  
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One could say the same thing for the 5 carburetors I have to rebuild routinely for the current ethanol in the gas. From the tank to the engine our parts were formulated I don't believe for bio in the fuel.

If the current parts have been switched from USA suppliers of the rae materials to make the seals (and foot) to off-shore, and more so if the parts are now manufactured off-shore, god only knows. These are no longer "in production" like current model year, they don't worry about factory warranty anymore on a 2003-2007 truck. QC may not be paying attention. There are a number of reasons these may not be holding up.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
One could say the same thing for the 5 carburetors I have to rebuild routinely for the current ethanol in the gas. From the tank to the engine our parts were formulated I don't believe for bio in the fuel.

If the current parts have been switched from USA suppliers of the rae materials to make the seals (and foot) to off-shore, and more so if the parts are now manufactured off-shore, god only knows. These are no longer "in production" like current model year, they don't worry about factory warranty anymore on a 2003-2007 truck. QC may not be paying attention. There are a number of reasons these may not be holding up.
Thanks Jack - never have run bio, but I guess I better pick up a kit and proactively change it - I would like more stable FP, so maybe my problem too (just early)...
Scott
 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 01:19 PM
  #21  
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Well, I guess we need to get good at replacing them every 2 years or so. But I have to say I agree with Toys. The more they build overseas the less quality we get and it's not just this part. Just about all the parts I buy for my truck are cheaply built. Most you can hold in your hand and tell the difference, that the part you took out is of a higher quality build. We have to get the manufacturing jobs back from China.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 01:33 PM
  #22  
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Is that a gasket you could have made, or is it some kind of pre-molded job? I've had great luck with O-rings taking them to a local industrial supplier and having them find a matching Viton O-ring. It seems the normal BunaN that most mfg's use that doesn't hold up to the ethanol in our gas. Deal with this all the time on motorcycle carburetors.

BTW, on the airbox there's an easy way to remove it. Disconnect the tube inlet tube & MAF wiring and take the thing out as a whole. I learned that from a DTRon video. You'll have it out in about 2-3 minutes. Much easier than trying to disassemble the filter & transitions in place.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan
Thanks Jack - never have run bio, but I guess I better pick up a kit and proactively change it - I would like more stable FP, so maybe my problem too (just early)...
Scott
The seal in my 2008 installed engine appears fine. I would say it only in the last year or two we’ve been seeing more FP regulator seal issues. Again, it’s just my speculation of why the failures.......
 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 01:52 PM
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It is a molded seal and feels more plastic than rubber. On the air box I tried pulling as one unit but had a problem with it catching the coolant reservoir. Tried till it pissed me of and just taking to much time.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 07:36 PM
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For the first 7-8 years, I would add 1 gallon of Bio to every fillup (in my 2006) - just for the "lubricity". Fortunately I have not ever experienced a seal issue in the fuel system.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 08:12 PM
  #26  
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That's good news, 'cause I don't think we are getting away from Bio mixes. How far back was the seal kit from Mark?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2020 | 02:58 AM
  #27  
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12-13 years. It got the new spring and seals fairly early in "life". I did run the BB for a while, but felt that was somewhat of a hack.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2020 | 07:34 AM
  #28  
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Then maybe we are dealing with a change in the formulation or processing of the seal material, just like the aftermarket tank “foot”.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2020 | 11:35 AM
  #29  
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Well I think I'm on the pickup foot clean or replace. When I am driving and turn the Corner Swish the tank the fuel pressure drops drastically. Slam brakes and truck fuel pressure goes back up. So I'm thinking that the foot is getting clogged.

What is the easiest way to drain tank. No plug, so I'm guessing some sort of syphen would work. How do y'all do it. I am going to jump on it as soon as I gather as much info on this process as possible. Any easy ways to do this?
 
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Old Oct 7, 2020 | 05:47 PM
  #30  
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I do things the hard way sometimes. The first time, I siphoned until it was nearly empty and mopped the rest up after dropping it. The second time I drilled a hole in the bottom of it and covered it up with a sump. You could probably use the fuel pump by jumping it to the battery but if your foot IS broken it will stop working before it’s empty. Hopefully you (and your significant other) enjoy the smell of diesel, it don’t wash off easily, lol.
 
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