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Valley pan plug

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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 09:58 PM
  #1  
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From: Lockport
Valley pan plug

Hey, I've been searching forums and most people are saying you can't buy new. I'm looking for the valley pan plug. I seemed to have lost mine. Really mad at myself. Rebuilding going on while also running a business. I have a 92 7.3 idi. Non turbo. Some form of stand in or if anyone has one on a shelf?? Thank you
 
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 10:10 PM
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just measure the threads and get an ORB plug such as this
Amazon Amazon

you can drill a hole thru the center if you wish for draining the Valley pan.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 10:18 PM
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From: Lockport
Originally Posted by lonewolf_
just measure the threads and get an ORB plug such as this https://www.amazon.com/Parker-HP5ON-.../dp/B01GEQS03M

you can drill a hole thru the center if you wish for draining the Valley pan.

Hell yeah man! Sweet deal!
 
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 10:24 PM
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I don't remember what the Thread size is.... the one in the link was just an example of what to look for... Just making it clear
 
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 10:26 PM
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From: Lockport
Originally Posted by lonewolf_
I don't remember what the Thread size is.... the one in the link was just an example of what to look for... Just making it clear
Yeah yeah, I got ya. I was standing next to it and got out my taps. 3/4-16
 
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
just measure the threads and get an ORB plug such as this https://www.amazon.com/Parker-HP5ON-.../dp/B01GEQS03M

you can drill a hole thru the center if you wish for draining the Valley pan.

This is a great workaround, but holy *****.... $33 for a single plug?!?!?!

I looked up the plugs from McMaster and there are a lot of options at a fraction of a price. https://www.mcmaster.com/npt-plugs/t...pipe-size~3-4/ With a drill press and grinder, you could modify a cheaper plug to make it work.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 10:54 PM
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As I said the Amazon link was just an example .. it was just the first hit I got when searching ORB fitting. and anyway it was like 1 7/8 thread ... pretty darned big
 
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 10:55 PM
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From: Lockport

These are the ones I ended up ordering to see which I like the best. 6 bucks for 3 and I could have picked them up but just didn't want to go in after work.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 11:06 PM
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just center Punch it in the middle of the Hex socket well and you should have no issue drilling it out, IF you choose to do that.... the OEM is drilled to allow the pan to drain if it fills up with water or whatever.

obviously you don't clamp it in the vise by the Threads when drilling ... screw it into a Nut would work fine while drilling
 
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 11:09 PM
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Thumbs up Good to go

Originally Posted by Dflynn926

These are the ones I ended up ordering to see which I like the best. 6 bucks for 3 and I could have picked them up but just didn't want to go in after work.

I would say that was Good to go
 
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 12:06 PM
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I would definitely drill a hole in it, when the factory plug gets plugged it's really annoying when the valley fills up with water or diesel..
 
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 12:07 PM
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From: Lockport
Originally Posted by DarkOverCast
I would definitely drill a hole in it, when the factory plug gets plugged it's really annoying when the valley fills up with water or diesel..
Sounds good to me. I'll keep you updated. I'm waiting in head bolts right now.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Dflynn926
Sounds good to me. I'll keep you updated. I'm waiting in head bolts right now.
The stock bolts are reusable, and if you're ever planning on going turbo with a stock or aftermarket kit they don't make much boost and you'll be fine with bolts, however there is a head bolt thread somewhere that will tell you how far you can overtorque the stock bolts for insurance if you ever do plan on going turbo.

I would recommend studs and just be done with it, but for the 7.3 they're 500-600$, vs a 6.9 that are $250

When I did my head gaskets years ago I never studded as I wasn't planning on going turbo, well I ended up doing it anyways and sure wished I would have studded or at least overtorqued the stock bolts. I ended up having a piston failure and am rebuilding another motor for it and I ordered the studs this time.

Cheap insurance vs a gasket job in the truck...think I had 16 hours total in it last time, which wasn't bad, but it was alot of work too.

Not sure if you already have done the short block but I'm custom filing my rings as well so it won't have lots of blowby like they do from the factory that just gets worse with age..

 
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 12:17 PM
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From: Lockport
Originally Posted by DarkOverCast
The stock bolts are reusable, and if you're ever planning on going turbo with a stock or aftermarket kit they don't make much boost and you'll be fine with bolts, however there is a head bolt thread somewhere that will tell you how far you can overtorque the stock bolts for insurance if you ever do plan on going turbo.

I would recommend studs and just be done with it, but for the 7.3 they're 500-600$, vs a 6.9 that are $250

When I did my head gaskets years ago I never studded as I wasn't planning on going turbo, well I ended up doing it anyways and sure wished I would have studded or at least overtorqued the stock bolts. I ended up having a piston failure and am rebuilding another motor for it and I ordered the studs this time.

Cheap insurance vs a gasket job in the truck...think I had 16 hours total in it last time, which wasn't bad, but it was alot of work too.

Not sure if you already have done the short block but I'm custom filing my rings as well so it won't have lots of blowby like they do from the factory that just gets worse with age..

​​​​​I won't be going turbo on this motor. I want to just get it running and driving. Bought it mostly for the body. It's almost completely rust free crew cab. I already have a PSD that I'm building up and going to swap in next year or so. I know the 7.3 idi is a good motor, but have had the PSD for awhile waiting for a truck. Have the entire donor vehicle.
 
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