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Old Sep 27, 2020 | 08:28 AM
  #16  
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So AZ did there test and it said REG was bad but the new one did not let it charge?
Being AZ failed do you trust the diodes are good?
And you still don't know why the battery is draining or even check for it with a test light.
Dave ----
 
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Old Sep 27, 2020 | 08:36 AM
  #17  
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D5AZ 18832 A its an alternator condenser more numbers for cross over EG-3872,,, C6OA-18832-A,,, C6OZ-18832-A,,, D5AZ-18832-A,, F6UZ-18801-BA these match up to a 1972 but looks like what on my 1979 so I think they are the same
 
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Old Sep 27, 2020 | 08:45 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 72rtchallenger
That helps with engine noise in the radio ,it helps filter engine noise or whine out of the radio , may be called a condenser cant remember , on these old trucks there is a lot of interference in the system when its running thru the electrical

wow - I would have never guessed that. Thanks!

Thanks - would never have guessed.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2020 | 10:08 AM
  #19  
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That's part of a "noise suppression" kit. AM radio in particular, CB radio, are especially vulnerable to RF spectrum noise. Condenser is just an old electrical name for a capacitor, for some reason it stuck in automotive. They used to install them on the + side of the ignition coil to ground, and voltage regulators, too. It's more effective to kill the noise right at the source, than try to shield affected equipment.

I would leave it out for now, as it's probably trashed. Depending on how it is connected, it might act as a short circuit, though with the currents involved probably just fail open? Not sure.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2020 | 05:58 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
That's part of a "noise suppression" kit. AM radio in particular, CB radio, are especially vulnerable to RF spectrum noise. Condenser is just an old electrical name for a capacitor, for some reason it stuck in automotive. They used to install them on the + side of the ignition coil to ground, and voltage regulators, too. It's more effective to kill the noise right at the source, than try to shield affected equipment.

I would leave it out for now, as it's probably trashed. Depending on how it is connected, it might act as a short circuit, though with the currents involved probably just fail open? Not sure.
thanks for the Info

it looks 40 years old and rusted. I think I’ll take it out. Frankly the engine is so loud I can’t hear the radio anyway...just the way I like it!

i changed the starter solenoid, the Positive battery cable, and got the right voltage regulator and now I have 14V at he battery when running. Engine cranks right up and is charging the battery, so one of those things fixed the problem
 
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Old Sep 27, 2020 | 06:01 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
So AZ did there test and it said REG was bad but the new one did not let it charge?
Being AZ failed do you trust the diodes are good?
And you still don't know why the battery is draining or even check for it with a test light.
Dave ----
I went back today and got the right regulator and got 14 V at the battery. I also changed the battery cable and the starter solenoid which had a corroded connection. One of those things solved the problem. Battery charges and starts right up now.

 
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Old Sep 28, 2020 | 10:02 AM
  #22  
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Nice. Congrats on fixing it!
 
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