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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Window felt issues

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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 10:55 AM
  #1  
Sixtfour's Avatar
Sixtfour
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From: Florida
Window felt issues

My truck came with all the window weather stripping, seals, fuzzies. The PO was nice to include them.
No maker, manufacturer on the items. I went to install the fuzzies for the window/ door, where your arm rests while driving.
very simple, line up the clips and holes, push till you here a click, installed, so you think. When I rolled up the window, the felts came
up as well, twisting them so nicely, there now trashed.
I feel the clips are undersized and wouldn’t hold. Are all parts really the same or are these just poorly made?
Anyone else have this problem?



 
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 11:27 AM
  #2  
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Perhaps the clips weren't pushed all the way into the slots. You will hear/feel it distinctly, when the clips snap all the way in. I used a paint stir-stick to protect and not distort the anti rattler strip, and pressed them in forcefully with a wide blade screwdriver.

AS to quality of new window rubbers and all...It's been disappointing. I rebuilt windows on my 65 less than a year ago with all new parts from one of the large, year specific parts companies. Both vent window rubbers are cracked and the rubber is crumbling and falling apart already. The vents have only been opened a couple of times. Truck is parked inside.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 11:35 AM
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Dennis Carpenter has been the favorite for anti-rattlers amongst most members. If you have not installed them B4 this video will help.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...sx9xW7PBFBAE2S
 
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 01:13 PM
  #4  
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you may need to reach up into the door and pry the "tang" a little until it catches, if it won't snap in from the outside.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2020 | 12:29 PM
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cosmofennema
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I did this yesterday, successfully, and I may have a few tips:
First, the vent channel DOES need to be loosened to removed the glass, no matter what the Ford manual says. I took it out to clean and give me space to attend to a couple issues within the door, you may not need to remove yours. If you do, it must be placed back into the door loosely before any fuzzies are installed.
The channel fuzzies must go in first. Careful bending, as you can easily kink the thin stainless edging. Also, the metal tab which engages the lower channel needs to be very near the brace just under the opening. To do this, aim to have the upper forward edge as tight as possible to the vent channel. Pop the tabs in with a 1-2 inch wide bit of 1/4 inch plywood, not a screwdriver.
The opening fuzzies are installed next. First, make sure the 'kickup' at the rear is sufficient, and matches the door. Next, I used a channel locks and wide Bondo spreader to gently squeeze the inner flange so that is was more vertical to the door. The outer was extremely resistant to moving, I left it alone. Then, thread the fuzzies into the opening (I used a plastic safe lube on the tabs, makes it easier to press in), keeping the rear to the outside of the channel fuzzie. Ease the tabs into position, then press them into position with a wide, plastic trim tool (or similar). As stated, you will hear them snap. The second will be harder, owing to less room, patience is key.
When rolling the window back up, use the wide trim tool to spread the opening fuzzies if necessary.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2020 | 12:48 PM
  #6  
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Sixtfour
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From: Florida
I reordered another set from D Carpenter. They also sell a wide plastic installation tool, so I got that as well.
odds are I did something wrong, when I did the install, I didn’t loosen anything, or remove the glass. New fuzzies should be here in a few weeks. I’ll post a side by side comparison picture of both the older set and what DC sends me
 
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