When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well I picked up another idi 94 factory turbo sat for a few years. I being having random shift issues started a few days after I started driving it. Usually hunting between 2-3 and 3-4. Once I limp it along enough I get around 60-70 ish km/hr it clears up and I'm good to drive it. I first thought low fluid but it has being good, thier is a slow leak on the cooler lines. But that has mostly being addressed so I topped up the fluid one day, it just sucks because the pickup tube is slightly kinked near the transmission the dipstick doesn't like to go in you have to kinda jiggler in but she will go. Speedo and tach work flawlessly. I did notice the pig tail for the TPS the tab was broken on one side and you can slide it right off pretty easily. So I have a new tps plug coming but it's a week away. And the of switch is busted off so I cant pull codes. And rear end pinion bearing are kinda pooched so again waiting for parts shouldn't effect it but putting it out thier.
I zipped tied the pig tail to pump temporarily and check voltage of sensor 1.08 at idle and 4.66 at wot no dead spots. The high voltage reading for wot is because the pump I'm using as the high idle screw adjusted from not factory spec.
You don't need the OD OFF switch to pull codes. But you do need codes to fix this. Try this: www.troublecodes.net/ford
Hey mark managed to get the codes pulled today. Code 11 11. That's after limping it home in second gear so it was hunting. One thing to note thou is they wired in two switches in the dash. The one is for the back alarm and the other is inoperative, could it be they wired up a lock up switch in for the converter and just did a bad job of it? I haven't spent the time to trace wires yet for the second switch going into work in an about an hour.
One thing I have noticed is slight delay going into gear especially reverse. Dont know of that helps or not. Just putting it out thier
First thing I would do is Fix the OD switch so that you have the Lamp working again .. find the parts Cheap at Pull-A-Part.
since you are getting All Pass Code 11-11 I would say it was time to do the Troubleshoot checks on the Transmission itself.
Yea the closest pull a part is around 1400 kms away. The next closest auto wrecker is around 300km. The last local auto wrecker within an hour drive died 3 months ago and is closed now. Would the switch in f150 be the same? Sometime I get can get parts from trucks at one of the shops here in town.
the switch should be the same for most https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Ford-F1...p/312873079099
of course I don't know the condition of the small wire harness running thru the shift lever but that is generally easy to fix without replacement.
While the switch probably won't fix anything the LED will at least Flash and give you an indication of error IF it is actually going into Limp Mode, CODES can clear themselves before you get a chance to see them.
BTW one possibility that could be happening is IF you loose 12V or Ground to the Transmission electronics .. you generally would see no Codes set and the Transmission goes into Manual Mode as if it had no computer.
Most likely there is nothing wrong with the switch or the light. The wires have probably broken where they enter the shift handle inside the steering column.
92 - 96 F150 F250 F350 Bronco all used same shift lever, ... that thing must be busted off good if you need a new Lever.
I know parts are slim pickings in Canada and shipping for you folks is insane too
You could just wire in a Push button and an LED.... use a 12 Volt LED (that just means the LED has a 1K Ohm resistor in series with it)
Just add a 1K resistor as shown in the 2nd image this Image is for the E series that has the switch on the dash
92 - 96 F150 F250 F350 Bronco all used same shift lever, ... that thing must be busted off good if you need a new Lever.
I know parts are slim pickings in Canada and shipping for you folks is insane too
You could just wire in a Push button and an LED.... use a 12 Volt LED (that just means the LED has a 1K Ohm resistor in series with it)
Just add a 1K resistor as shown in the 2nd image this Image is for the E series that has the switch on the dash
Interesting, I'm rebuilding the rear differential tonight, but had an interesting conversation with one of the previous owners of the truck. And this issue has being going on for a few years. He would disconnect the battery for a few hours every couple days to reset the computer. Or just not drive it for a few days and everything would work great. And he bought the truck and it was pretty well doing it when he bought it but the owner before him had a jumper wire on the brake switch to turn the brake lights on all the time. The computer receives an input from the brake switch for the converter lockup or unlock correct?
yes that is True BOO (Brake On/Off) is a signal that the PCM detects.
normally sets code 74/536 when BOO is detected the TCC is disabled.
Bad Capacitors in the PCM can and will cause similar issues as in the PCM acts Dead. I just went thru this issue some time back.
yes that is True BOO (Brake On/Off) is a signal that the PCM detects.
normally sets code 74/536 when BOO is detected the TCC is disabled.
Bad Capacitors in the PCM can and will cause similar issues as in the PCM acts Dead. I just went thru this issue some time back.
Hmm he said of lamp worked before broke it off by accident and he clued it back on he did not know the code unfortunately but said it was flashing something a him.
