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Exhaust Manifold to pipe connection

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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 06:38 AM
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Exhaust Manifold to pipe connection

Hi all,

1978 F250 2WD Ranger XLT Camper Special with a 460.

Well I finally worked myself up to replacing exhaust manifold gaskets. I’ve tackled the driver’s side so far.

Upon re-install, exhaust is now pouring out of the connection at the bottom of the manifold where it connects to the exhaust pipe. The shop manual I
have and many articles online refer to a gasket that should be in there, but there wasn’t one when I detached it and it wasn’t leaking previously.

My question is: should there be a gasket between the bottom of the exhaust manifold and that 2-hole donut thing it bolts into? If so, what type? See pic.

Anything else I need to be aware of or other advice?

Thanks in advance — you guys rock. I’ve spent hours and hours on this site over the last year learning my truck, the expertise and general helpfulness here is incredible.



 
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 08:53 AM
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The gasket if you want to call it that is the tapered insert in your exhaust manifold. normally they're replaceable and they can be steel or fiber both are available. . some are not replaceable they're part of the manifold I'm not sure in your application.

From the looks of your picture the problem is the flange on your pipe is shot.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 440 sixpack
The gasket if you want to call it that is the tapered insert in your exhaust manifold. normally they're replaceable and they can be steel or fiber both are available. . some are not replaceable they're part of the manifold I'm not sure in your application.

From the looks of your picture the problem is the flange on your pipe is shot.
Great, thanks for the quick reply!

That tapered edge you describe (it’s in the pic) seems to be part of the manifold itself. So I don’t think that is coming out.

Just so I am crystal clear — the flange you refer to — is that the ring thing with two bolt holes that slides up and down the pipe and bolts into the manifold? Or are you saying the open end of the pipe is supposed to have a flange of some sort on the end and that isn’t there?



 
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by twoodworth77
Just so I am crystal clear — the flange you refer to — is that the ring thing with two bolt holes that slides up and down the pipe and bolts into the manifold? Or are you saying the open end of the pipe is supposed to have a flange of some sort on the end and that isn’t there?
Pretty sure he means the pipe itself, where it flares out to retain the retaining flange and match the manifold opening.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 10:18 AM
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Yeah that makes sense. First time looking at anything exhaust related, so I don’t yet know how things are supposed to look. Thanks for the clarification.

So, any suggestions on how to fix to get this girl driveable from my driveway, without a welder? The pipe is a simple Y design where the two manifolds’ pipes are welded together on the passenger side and go straight back out. I have heard that a direct replacement piece for this unit is not made that fits a 460?

Would it work short term to cut off the problematic end and replace it with one with an intact flange? Sometime in the next year or so I will likely start to learn how to weld, but that’s not an option right now. But maybe short term I use a clamp-based exhaust pipe connector until my skills are up to it?

I’d sure appreciate other suggestions as well.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 10:34 AM
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make sure the exhaust pipe didn't get bent during removal/installation.
loosen the bolts a little bit and wiggle the pipe around, sometimes they are hard to get lined up perfectly.
make sure nothing got between the exhaust pipe flare and the manifold.
make sure the bolts are tight (but don't twist them off).
 
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 10:46 AM
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It's kind of hard to tell from the picture but the pipe flange really looks like it's worn or rusted away pretty bad. this would absolutely cause a leak.

If your pipe is still solid any exhaust shop could easily flare a new flange and weld it on to fix it. or you could have them make you a new one with a female end on it you could clamp on if you want to do it yourself and you don't have a welder. this would get you by if you are looking for a quick cheap fix. obviously a new pipe would be best.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 11:06 AM
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To me it looks like a donut gasket is called for. They come in various configurations, with an inside taper, outside taper, both, square cut.... I remember when I needed an odd one the local O'Reilly's let me pick through their stock and there were quite a few. Mike the bottom of that taper, the top of the taper (on both the pipe and the manifold if it has a taper - can't really tell), and take those dimensions to your FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Store) and see what they have.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 11:18 AM
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This might work;https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...271075&jsn=255
 
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 11:34 AM
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This is all so helpful, thanks.

There is definitely an existing “male” taper built into the exhaust manifold itself. See here.



 
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Old Sep 19, 2020 | 11:42 AM
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If that's the case then no gasket was used. using a little copper silicone will help. half of it burns away but what's left will help seal minor leaks.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 01:57 PM
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Thanks to all of you for the good advice and suggestions, this gives me plenty to work with.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 06:59 AM
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X2 on pretty sure that application does not get a "donut", it is a flare of the exhaust pipe and the flange of the exhaust manifold. Since you only took off and replaced a exhaust manifold gasket you might have to work and wiggle the exhaust pipe back into it original position. X2 on some high temp RTV before hand and give it plenty of drying time.

https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...ket/?locale=en

Amazon
Amazon Amazon

Home Depot https://www.homedepot.com/p/Permatex...5152/302774959

 
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 07:19 AM
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Sounds good. I will try the high temp RTV this week, keeping it simple.

Much appreciated all.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2021 | 09:17 AM
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Deleted post. Content was meant for another thread.
 
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