pigtail source
Crazy that there's so many different connectors when most just do the same thing.
The pigtail isn't in the Motorcraft book. Almost two hundred 2-cavity pigtails in the book; I need one used in three places on an engine that was produced for 7 years, I expect a couple of hundred thousand vehicles or more, and it's not in the book. FML They're readily available on Ebay, but I have to wait 10 days to get one from China. I'll be eating used toothpicks for dinner by then.
Of course, my voltmeter won't fit into the terminals to check this one out, and it's a 3-handed operation anyway. And, yes, my battery charger is fried and my batteries are low now. I opened it up and have it out in the sun to dry out, not like it was full of water, but apparently enough. What are the chances of it ever working again? So I gotta buy another $80 charger.
Houston weather, I've had to deal with it for years now. It's either burning up hot, raining, or cold, and I have to work on this outside.
Just pisses me off that Ford can't even tell me a part number. I might have to drive 500 miles to Dallas and back to scavenge it off my Red Cross ambulance. Even then, I don't even know if that's the problem. It was the wires going to it that were bare, and I have them taped up, and separated, so it can't be shorting there again. Plus, at one point yesterday, it cleared up and seemed to be running fine. All that changed from that point is I put the truck back together and taped the fan connector wires into one bundle.
So, I guess now I go and untape that bundle, check the tape on the individual wires, pull them apart so there's no way they can short to each other, then put it back together and see if anything changes. THAT makes the most sense. That was the original problem on my last trip, and taping the wires solved it. But the codes point to the ECT sensor. Why would it have gone out from just sitting in the driveway since then? Yet, it's wires were bare as well, and codes don't usually lie.
If y'all can't tell, I'm very frustrated. I usually take this stuff in stride, but it's been one piddling thing after another with my vehicles keeping me from making money, on top of getting ripped by friends and thieves for about $40k in the last two years, money I couldn't afford to lose. I'm out of wiggle room.
Again, thanks for everyone's help. Y'all and my dog are the only ones I can count on.
https://prosourcediesel.com/product-...l-powerstroke/
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Alliant ECT connector, available elsewhere too.
https://www.xtremediesel.com/alliant-2-wire-pigtail-ap0056
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Fan should be ...
Motorcraft WPT1136
Motorcraft WPT1045
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
However, I was reading a generic write-up on the P0117 code and it said that if the scanner is reading a high max temp, then unplug the sensor. If it then shows a max low temp, then the sensor is bad. So, when I first encountered this problem trying to start it for the first time after installing the AC parts, it did show a max temp - 302 degrees on Torque. After I unplugged it, it didn't change at first, but when I reloaded Torque, it did go to the max low of -40 degrees.
Since then, after starting it a number of times, it's been reading in the 90s, which didn't make sense because it's only 80ish here. Just went and did that test again. It was at 96, I disconnected, and it went to -40. I'm thinking the sensor is bad.
Does that sound right? Again, that info was generic to all cars on some random code-definition site.
Fan Clutch connector - female (clutch side): 1U2Z-14S411-AHC (WPT-1045) fits all MY's
Fan Clutch connector - male (engine side): 1U2Z-14S411-AKB (WPT-1136)
Here is a pic of it:
https://www.jakacia.com/index.php?ma...ducts_id=40437
I have also been told that GM Part #88953310 connector will work if you break off a tab
But, per my last post, I swapped in a different sensor, one off the other ambulance I have here (that I never got to start again after changing out the oil cooler). Didn't mind swapping sensors, just didn't want to cut off its connector.
Anyway, after that, it started and ran - after a couple of times dying and after I cleared the codes. But, it only idles, and still has light smoke out the exhaust. If I give it any pedal, it struggles badly and dies. I think the smoke is oil. Before, lots of white smoke came out, then a second or two and I could see gray mixed in with it. Now, lots of white comes out at first; but, when it decides to keep running, that goes away and just the gray is left, and much less.
Can y'all help me with Torque? Before, it had all those codes I listed in the other thread, some duplicates, and just two highlighted with red alerts as "Current Faults." Now, after clearing it, those current faults did not come back (the P0117/P0118 associated with the sensor), but some of the others did (P0113, P0406, P0683/twice, and B1318/twice). That U2023 didn't.
I'm not sure how Torque works because of those highlighted codes. None of the codes now are highlighted. I'm not sure if the sensor solved the P0117/0118, or if it just hasn't run long enough to reset. However, I cleared them yesterday, and all of them reset immediately.
I'm thinking the sensor fixed those two, but I'm not sure if these other codes point to the remaining issue(s) since they aren't highlighted as "current." Torque does give me some messages about some codes not being able to be cleared, and when I first connect to scan for codes, it gives me an error message about the ECU not communicating, but when I click past it, it does pull codes. Guess I'm not even sure if it's pulling all the codes, or if it's displaying old codes.
This behavior is all new. On my trip, it only blew black smoke from overfueling when it bogged from a standing start. Never any of this white, and never dying. Actually made it the last 1000 miles without much of that at all, albeit most of that on the highway. And when I drove it the one time here, just a few miles, it seemed mostly good, just a little smoke when starting off. Not sure how all this happened with it not running while I've been replacing AC parts.
Good news is that my new serpentine belt is finally the right size, and my tranny light isn't on, although I haven't driven.
Is there any data I can pull with Torque that might help everyone diagnose this? Unfortunately, I can only get it to idle, so limited data.













