Start-up tones......
#1
Start-up tones......
On normal start-up, there is an audible ding-ding-ding sound until the warning lights go out and the dashboard operated normally.
On several occasions, my '12 has had a rapid ding-dong-ding-dong-ding instead but no warning lights stay on, no codes or pre-codes thrown. I've noticed no similarities in weather or start up conditions that would begin to point to a cause. The dashboard start up routine appears normal except for the tones.
Suggestions?
On several occasions, my '12 has had a rapid ding-dong-ding-dong-ding instead but no warning lights stay on, no codes or pre-codes thrown. I've noticed no similarities in weather or start up conditions that would begin to point to a cause. The dashboard start up routine appears normal except for the tones.
Suggestions?
#3
Read up on the tones and searched the rest of the manual. Nothing about warning tones randomly sounding.
All dash lights light up as intended and go out as intended. No "stragglers" indicating a fault in a system. No codes or pre-codes stored.
Yet I still get random warning tones for no apparent reason.
All dash lights light up as intended and go out as intended. No "stragglers" indicating a fault in a system. No codes or pre-codes stored.
Yet I still get random warning tones for no apparent reason.
#4
Is it the same sound you would get if the lights were left on, or if the key is left in the ignition when the engine is off and the door opened? If so, try wiggle testing the key with the engine running - it may be a loose connection in the switch (if it’s not push button).
Have you tried timing the interval between the tone? Meaning it sounds once (ding-dong-ding-dong-ding) then there’s a few seconds or minutes before it sounds again? If there’s an equal interval between the tone, it’s not random - it’s an audible warning that a system has a malfunction and may not be able to turn on the indicator light.
Keep in mind that there are no direct inputs to the cluster - it’s all logic controlled using data. During the initial power up (bulb check), the cluster is operating the indicators and chimes, but when there’s a specific system malfunction, such as an air bag fault, that module is responsible for requesting the air bag indicator light is turned on. If there’s a malfunction preventing that request, the audible warning can serve as a backup to alert you to a problem, even if no visual warnings are present.
I don’t know how long your daily drive is, but I’d recommend going for a 30 minute drive and timing the interval of the tone to see if it truly is random.
Whether or not it’s actually random is a secondary issue - the entire communication network should be scanned for codes. The air bags, PCM, ABS, 4x4 (if equipped), doors, and several other components have modules capable of storing fault codes that could be responsible for the tone. You will only be able to read them using a professional level scan tool - possibly a smart phone app using a dongle, but I don’t have any idea which ones would be capable of reading all the modules.
Have you tried timing the interval between the tone? Meaning it sounds once (ding-dong-ding-dong-ding) then there’s a few seconds or minutes before it sounds again? If there’s an equal interval between the tone, it’s not random - it’s an audible warning that a system has a malfunction and may not be able to turn on the indicator light.
Keep in mind that there are no direct inputs to the cluster - it’s all logic controlled using data. During the initial power up (bulb check), the cluster is operating the indicators and chimes, but when there’s a specific system malfunction, such as an air bag fault, that module is responsible for requesting the air bag indicator light is turned on. If there’s a malfunction preventing that request, the audible warning can serve as a backup to alert you to a problem, even if no visual warnings are present.
I don’t know how long your daily drive is, but I’d recommend going for a 30 minute drive and timing the interval of the tone to see if it truly is random.
Whether or not it’s actually random is a secondary issue - the entire communication network should be scanned for codes. The air bags, PCM, ABS, 4x4 (if equipped), doors, and several other components have modules capable of storing fault codes that could be responsible for the tone. You will only be able to read them using a professional level scan tool - possibly a smart phone app using a dongle, but I don’t have any idea which ones would be capable of reading all the modules.
#5
Thanks DBGrif91.
Not the normal "do-dee-do" or door ajar . A very rapid "dee-do-dee-do-dee-do" with no breaks between until the dash lights go out normally. Definitely a chime that absolutely grabs your attention. I've carefully observed the dash lights on startup to try to see if one of the warning lights fails to light up. All present. I've also watched for a straggler light as indicated in the manual.
It's almost like the computer plays the wrong tone.
Wife sometimes drives it on a much longer commute (about 30 minutes compared to my 4 miles) She experiences the same odd start tones.
I have a dongle and phone app. I'll see if the local auto parts place can read a code, but it sounds like this may take a dealer to figure out.
Not the normal "do-dee-do" or door ajar . A very rapid "dee-do-dee-do-dee-do" with no breaks between until the dash lights go out normally. Definitely a chime that absolutely grabs your attention. I've carefully observed the dash lights on startup to try to see if one of the warning lights fails to light up. All present. I've also watched for a straggler light as indicated in the manual.
It's almost like the computer plays the wrong tone.
Wife sometimes drives it on a much longer commute (about 30 minutes compared to my 4 miles) She experiences the same odd start tones.
I have a dongle and phone app. I'll see if the local auto parts place can read a code, but it sounds like this may take a dealer to figure out.
#6
You don’t need a dealer- any shop with an advanced scan tool (at work we have an Autel Maxisys if you want a better idea of what I mean) will be able to check the entire network. It’s totally possible this is a cluster fault as it controls the chimes as well, but that will have to be determined after a complete check of the network has been done.
#7
Mystery solved... I think.
I was going to use the Escape Saturday and it started normally. Turned it around in the driveway so I could put the hitch hauler on the back and load it up. About 30 minutes later I had the old familiar click-click-click of a dead battery. Checked the cables and connections.. Appeared to be fine. Battery was reading 11.2 volts.
After replacing the battery, all seems fine.
I will note, however, that the negative side clamp is of ridiculous design. It broke during the battery removal so I now have an aftermarket clamp.
I was going to use the Escape Saturday and it started normally. Turned it around in the driveway so I could put the hitch hauler on the back and load it up. About 30 minutes later I had the old familiar click-click-click of a dead battery. Checked the cables and connections.. Appeared to be fine. Battery was reading 11.2 volts.
After replacing the battery, all seems fine.
I will note, however, that the negative side clamp is of ridiculous design. It broke during the battery removal so I now have an aftermarket clamp.
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dzzavid
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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02-09-2009 12:10 PM