Overheating when towing
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Overheating when towing
I have a 2006 lariat 6.0 that overheats And spits out coolant when towing up hills. Runs fine otherwise. Had the head gaskets tested and were fine. Anybody know what could be the problem?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
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if it were me, first thing i’d do is make sure the radiator was nice and clean and the coolant was full. then check the fan. then the thermostat.
did it just start doing it (ie: you’ve towed the same load/route before without issues)?
did it just start doing it (ie: you’ve towed the same load/route before without issues)?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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How were the head gaskets tested?
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brought it in to a mechanic and he said it was dirt around the bottom of the radiator or something like that. It did work for bit. Did not overheat for about a month. Thought it was fixed , but then it started again. I drive the same route every day and it overheats on this one hill when I get to the top. So I slow down when I see the temp climb. When I level out the it goes back to normal.
he did a chemical test to check the gaskets and told me it was not a head gasket issue.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,414
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From: Tucson USA
the water pumps are known to be weak, several places sell aluminum ones vs the plastic ones they came with. So would recommend the cleaning of the radiator and possible upgrade of the water pump. I drive a school bus and had one that would indicate overheat when accelerating. The shop played with everything, cleaning coils new coolant etc. Finally they pulled the rad and it was full of dirt!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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it’s been doing it for a year now. I tow a trailer with skid steer and tools. It’s about 12,000lbs.
brought it in to a mechanic and he said it was dirt around the bottom of the radiator or something like that. It did work for bit. Did not overheat for about a month. Thought it was fixed , but then it started again. I drive the same route every day and it overheats on this one hill when I get to the top. So I slow down when I see the temp climb. When I level out the it goes back to normal.
he did a chemical test to check the gaskets and told me it was not a head gasket issue.
brought it in to a mechanic and he said it was dirt around the bottom of the radiator or something like that. It did work for bit. Did not overheat for about a month. Thought it was fixed , but then it started again. I drive the same route every day and it overheats on this one hill when I get to the top. So I slow down when I see the temp climb. When I level out the it goes back to normal.
he did a chemical test to check the gaskets and told me it was not a head gasket issue.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,833
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From: Jersey Shore
As mark stated, do not go by the chem test. Head gaskets may only leak at the higher combustion pressures, so doing that test is useless unless the gaskets are totally compromised. Your observations are showing that situation, one hill.
The best method to check is using the coolant pressure check that has been tried and verified by enthusiasts. The best of the knowledgable Powerstroke 6.0L mechanics use that gauge check today, and it's a good tell for how deep the knowledge is of the garage that is still going by a coolant gas method.
The best method to check is using the coolant pressure check that has been tried and verified by enthusiasts. The best of the knowledgable Powerstroke 6.0L mechanics use that gauge check today, and it's a good tell for how deep the knowledge is of the garage that is still going by a coolant gas method.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 4,673
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From: Houston, Texas
It prolly doesn't help that you're about 3000lbs over the 250's towing capacity. Is your trailer a bumper pull? That definitely would have an effect. Still, if it's spitting coolant, that's not a good sign. I bumper pull that much with my F450, plus another couple of thousand pounds of flatbed and toolboxes, and it will get up in the high 220s going up steep mountains, even with me going only 30mph. But, it's been doing that for 150k miles and still runs fine. However, no coolant puke.
There is a cheapo test using a rubber plug, hose and water bottle that will distinguish between head gaskets and EGR cooler. I think the vid is on the BPD site, or used to be.
There is a cheapo test using a rubber plug, hose and water bottle that will distinguish between head gaskets and EGR cooler. I think the vid is on the BPD site, or used to be.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2018
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From: unfortunately Germany
Install coolant pressure gauge. Drive engine to working temp. (I guess you will see over 10psi then). Slowly and carefully open the degas bottle cap and release the pressure. Close the degas bottle again and continue driving and watch the pressure rise.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Amarillo, TX
Are you monitoring your actual coolant temp, or just going by the dash gauge? Would help to know actual temp - the gauge just hangs out in the middle of the range until the coolant reaches a threshold value, then pegs to hot.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Fresno, CA
Is your radiator fan coming on? You should be hearing it roar long before the stock gauge starts moving. Sounds like your stock gauge is moving and getting into the red? Looks like a cooling system issue, either fan, radiator, etc, you are simply getting too hot and raising the coolant pressure above the cap relief point.
From what I recall the stock gauge starts moving around 225F ECT. The fan kicks into high speed around 218. No idea what temp is at the "red" on the stock gauge.
From what I recall the stock gauge starts moving around 225F ECT. The fan kicks into high speed around 218. No idea what temp is at the "red" on the stock gauge.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
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From: Houston, Texas
My fans have usually kicked into high around 212. I've had good luck going up steep hills by slowing down - keeping the RPMs around 1800. And, you have to slow down before the temps start to climb in my experience. Once they start going up quickly, it's hard to get them back down without stopping. But, don't shut it down, let it cool down while running. Also, it is a mistake to try to make it up a steep incline with low RPMs. You think you're not working the engine hard, but the engine needs RPMs to keep the coolant circulating.
Fleet Owner
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Engine temperature is not the only parameter that the PCM monitors to determine cooling fan operation. This is the reason that you will see some variation in engine temperature as it correlates to fan operation. The operation/description of the FSS (Fan Speed Sensor) from the PC/ED manual has a fairly good explanation as to how the system "thinks". This is not your traditional engine hits temp X and the fan clutch locks up. The fan speed sensor is a Hall-Effect sensor integral to the vistronic drive fan (VDF). The powertrain control module (PCM) will monitor sensor inputs and control the VDF speed based upon engine coolant temperature (ECT), engine oil temperature (EOT),transmission fluid temperature (TFT) and intake air temperature (IAT) requirements. When an increase in fan speed for vehicle cooling is requested, the PCM will monitor the FSS signal and output the required pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to a fluid port valve within the VDF.
The factory gauge has been observed to go from normal to the "red" quickly. It happened around 240 degrees F according to a few observations.
The factory gauge has been observed to go from normal to the "red" quickly. It happened around 240 degrees F according to a few observations.
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