Squishy Brakes
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
If you're not in a hurry, and the brake system is simple without ABS and valves and other gee gaws (and '64 certainly qualifies) I've talked to a few guys who use what they simply call "gravity bleed". No pressure pumps or bleeder pots or anything, just crack the bleeders and let 'er drip.
Of course it means keeping a weather eye on the MC, keeping it filled and not letting it drop down too low and introducing air into the system. I've tried it and it seems to work fine, if a little slow. That's what beer is for, I reckon. Sometimes the bleeding will suddenly halt for some reason, in that case take a flare wrench and tap tap tap along the brake line to get any bubbles out of the way.
Of course it means keeping a weather eye on the MC, keeping it filled and not letting it drop down too low and introducing air into the system. I've tried it and it seems to work fine, if a little slow. That's what beer is for, I reckon. Sometimes the bleeding will suddenly halt for some reason, in that case take a flare wrench and tap tap tap along the brake line to get any bubbles out of the way.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 3,550
Likes: 441
If you're not in a hurry, and the brake system is simple without ABS and valves and other gee gaws (and '64 certainly qualifies) I've talked to a few guys who use what they simply call "gravity bleed". No pressure pumps or bleeder pots or anything, just crack the bleeders and let 'er drip.
Of course it means keeping a weather eye on the MC, keeping it filled and not letting it drop down too low and introducing air into the system. I've tried it and it seems to work fine, if a little slow. That's what beer is for, I reckon. Sometimes the bleeding will suddenly halt for some reason, in that case take a flare wrench and tap tap tap along the brake line to get any bubbles out of the way.
Of course it means keeping a weather eye on the MC, keeping it filled and not letting it drop down too low and introducing air into the system. I've tried it and it seems to work fine, if a little slow. That's what beer is for, I reckon. Sometimes the bleeding will suddenly halt for some reason, in that case take a flare wrench and tap tap tap along the brake line to get any bubbles out of the way.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 234
From: Southern California
Dan
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 698
Here's something that may be useful. After dealing with my own brake issues today, I found myself having to adjust the drag on the rear wheels. Front wheels are simple since you can freely spin them and go by feel. Rears maybe not as easy since you're fighting the differential, driveshaft and transmission. So, after getting the fronts adjusted to where I want them and the rears guesstimated, I took the truck out for a spin. Using an IR thermometer, I compared rear drum temps to the front and adjusted accordingly. Will take a few heat/cool cycles but I think my happy spot is about 165°.
*Update* So, after multiple adjustments yesterday, drove truck this morning approx 20 highway miles, normal braking, under 50° outside temps. With minor tweaking, front drums 115°, rear drums 95°. Stops good.
Tony
*Update* So, after multiple adjustments yesterday, drove truck this morning approx 20 highway miles, normal braking, under 50° outside temps. With minor tweaking, front drums 115°, rear drums 95°. Stops good.
Tony
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 234
From: Southern California
Could be that what you need is a residual pressure valve to keep, well, some residual pressure in the wheel cylinders. I've. Heard conflicting opinions. Some say that you only need them if you have a frame mounted master cylinder, to avoid drain back because of gravity. (The master lower than the wheel cylinders).
While others say that old master cylibders had an RPV built in but new ones don't always have them and you can't get a satisfactory pedal without one. I was told to use a 10 pound valve in each drum brake circuit, before the split from. Left to right. You can get Willwood brand from summit racing for about 20 bucks apiece. I haven't done my conversion yet so I don't know if I will need them or if they will help your problem just throwing it out there.
While others say that old master cylibders had an RPV built in but new ones don't always have them and you can't get a satisfactory pedal without one. I was told to use a 10 pound valve in each drum brake circuit, before the split from. Left to right. You can get Willwood brand from summit racing for about 20 bucks apiece. I haven't done my conversion yet so I don't know if I will need them or if they will help your problem just throwing it out there.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
Thanks guys for all the input! Between the combination of multiple brake shoe adjustments, long gravity bleeding with a beer by my side she feels like the way she should.
thanks again for all the input I really appreciate it!
thanks again for all the input I really appreciate it!
New User
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
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