When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So got my 64 F100 axel swap I just completed so I can convert to 4WD
Rebuilt a Dana 44 closed knuckle and Dana 60 with drum brakes, new drums, shoes, wheel cylinders and mostly new brake line for the truck.(just two original hard lines all new hydraulic hoses) New master cylinder too. I have bleed about 4 liters of break fluid through this now and pedal is still squishy and can’t stop worth crap. Had zero issues before the axel swaps. No visual leaks or seeping anywhere in the lines. All the wheel adjuster screws are extended so they’re slight contact with the drums and shoes Did the tropical two man brake bleeding, pedal down, open zyrt, close zyrt, pedal up and repeat.
Bought a pneumatic bleeder just to try it and still squishy brakes.
if I pump the brakes they get slightly stiffer but still not optimal nor safe for the roads.
Assuming all was installed and bled properly, I'd pull the drums to be sure none of the cylinders are leaking as it may not be obvious from the outside (provided you didn't do that already) If all ok my next suspect would be the mc. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. Maybe swap your old one back on.
Assuming all was installed and bled properly, I'd pull the drums to be sure none of the cylinders are leaking as it may not be obvious from the outside (provided you didn't do that already) If all ok my next suspect would be the mc. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. Maybe swap your old one back on.
Tony
okay I will try that when I get home. I haven’t popped off the drums and checked. I feel like with this amount of brake fluid I’ve pushed through there would be some sitting at least from overnight on the tire or wheel
to my knowledge you adjust the shoes until there is light friction so turning the drum/wheel there is light resistance. Am I mistaken?
If you have the shoes all the way against the drum; could it be possible there isn’t enough movement in the wheel cylinders to really push the air out?
I have always left the shoes a bit loose; bled the brakes; then adjusted the shoes out to get light drag then loosen back up a hair. It is also difficult to get the air out of a new master cylinder. I always bench bleed prior to install.
If you have the shoes all the way against the drum; could it be possible there isn’t enough movement in the wheel cylinders to really push the air out?
I have always left the shoes a bit loose; bled the brakes; then adjusted the shoes out to get light drag then loosen back up a hair. It is also difficult to get the air out of a new master cylinder. I always bench bleed prior to install.
i bench bled the MC and tightened the shoes after bleeding
Well, you got a lot of bases covered. I will now concur with the member mentioning bad Master Cylinder. I have bought several MCs over the years that were faulty.
Well, you got a lot of bases covered. I will now concur with the member mentioning bad Master Cylinder. I have bought several MCs over the years that were faulty.
okay I just popped off all four drums and no leaks and saw the cylinders operating. I will take the new MC in tomorrow and get another one. If it isn’t then I’m not sure what to do
I've had better luck running the adjusters all the way out (tight) prior to bleeding, seems like the wheel cylinders get a better fill. Close everything up and pump the pedal a few times to center the shoes and take up any slop or clearance. Then back the adjusters off till there is still a light drag when spinning the wheel.
Are the flexable brake lines in front new or used? The master cylinder displaces a fixed amount of fluid and if the flex lines are old and expanding under pressure you'll get a weak pedal. Happened to me years ago and now I only use lines with a braided cover.
Okay I will check to make sure the push rod is fully releasing. All new flex lines are installed already, and I will try that new adjusting then bleeding method tonight
Yeah any mechanical slop in the rear drum assembly seems to result in a low, squishy pedal that is a lot like air in the lines. Run 'em up all the way tight (adjusters) till they lock, and bleed them that way. Close the blleeder screws, pump the brakes several times to center the shoes, Then back the adjusters off till a "light" drag when spinning the wheel. Take it for a short drive around the block and braking a few times, then check for proper adjustment again manually. Without that good close initial manual adjustment, the "self adjusters" will NEVER work while backing up.
Probably a brake shoe adjustment issue like already discussed.
If you have a brake light switch in your master cylinder, remember to burp it. Also, nice to have the truck's rear equal or lower than front of truck to help get the last bubble out of the master cylinder.