When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My son noticed a small drip in the driver's side rear freeze plug, so decided to change it (as he was also putting in a radiator he picked up at a "U-pull-it" place). When installing the new brass plug, he was not able to get quite all the edges totally in all the way. Between the frame and tail pipe, the angle was too obstructed. He then ran a bottle of "flush" through the system, running the engine about 15 minutes. He then drained the system and filled it with anti-freeze & water (50-50). He then ran the engine again, about 15 minutes. This time the plug started leaking slowly. My first question is... can this plug be worked in further, now that it's heated up? Or, should he pull it out and put in another one? As it turned out, this radiator has a small leak, in the second column from the passenger edge (about 4 inches from the top). This was the only radiator of this model they had. Should he try and have it plugged or is that a good idea?
As long as he didn't distort welsh plug when he was installing it in the 1st place it should be fine. However if he did distort/ score it during original installation it will most likely leak even when seated correctly. That will req' R&R-ing the plug.
I freeze & lubricate welsh plugs before I install them. Especially marine style brass ones. They almost push in by hand then. I use flat steel plate, light, ball peen & just tap plug home B4 it warms up.
For radiator, if core & tank are solid repairing leak's acceptable. However if core is deteriorating or brittling and that caused the leak, it may not be worth repairing. A quality Automotive Radiator Repair Service can tell you what you need to know. It's hard to say without seeing what you have.
FWIW, I quit using salvage yard radiators if at all possible. If it's not possible & I must use a salvage yard radiator, I tell salvage yard I plan to take it to a radiator shop & have it checked before I install it. If it is faulty, rotted, brittle, whatever, I have the shop write what's wrong on invoice & take is back to the salvage yard with the understanding I can replace it or get my money back.
I just put a new, aluminum, cross flow, radiator from Modine in a 88 F150 & it only cost me $150 or so. . . . It's 4 row Hi Efficiency. At that price it's worth it to me. It increased coolant capacity by a gallon over the OEM radiator it replaced. FBp
Thank you, for the tips. We will be checking into the "new" aluminum radiator, as it sounds like the best way to go. The idea of freezing the freeze plug is very smart... My son is planning to totally restore the truck. I'll let you know how the radiator woes turn out.
Alright,, along the same vein of thought. What is the general consensus on the best radiator for a 460? I'm putting in a separate trans. fluid cooler also, so which are available without that? Thanks.