I had an interesting problem a week ago and hopefully someone has some insight. I was away on vacation and my truck was parked outside at a friend's house while I was away. When I returned and tried to start the engine I got a message about low power mode and the engine would barely crank/turn over (equipped with a start button). The starter would engage and there would be a very short rotation and then nothing. I tried a couple of times and at one point the engine started to crank rapidly but would not fire. I tried one more time and the truck started normally. I assumed low battery voltage due to it sitting for a week but though it odd as this had never happened before when it sat for an extended period. Once the truck started everything operated normally but I noticed my clock had reset to 24 hour time mode. Everything worked well for a week and then when I tried to start the engine I got the low power mode message and the engine would barely crank for a second and then go dead. I got my trusty volt meter out and checked voltage at the terminals. The drivers side battery showed 10.8 volts and the passenger side battery 8.5 volts. I decided to replace both batteries. Once the batteries were replaced the truck started fine and all systems seem to be working fine. The voltage on the new batteries was 12.7/12.8 respectively and with the engine running 14.7 at each battery. I also checked for any DTC codes with my code scanner and found nothing. This is where things get odd. Upon inspection of the engine compartment I noticed what looked like evidence of electrical arcing/burning between the hood and the rubber isolation blocks near the hood hinges. It appears the blocks are a bit melted where they contact the hood. It also looks like the positive battery posts especially on the passenger side have a slight singe/burn in the screw terminal. I checked the engine compartment light and harness mounted on the hood and the harness is fine and the light works. While I was away I had talked with my parents who live nearby where my truck was parked and they had mentioned getting a pretty good lighting storm. I have thoroughly inspected the entire outside of the truck for any evidence of a direct lightning hit and there is nothing to indicate that occurred. I'm wondering if it could have taken a residual strike from a nearby strike and possibly jumped to the chassis. My truck is a 2017 with 56,000 miles and I've had it for just over 36 months so I was surprised that the factory batteries would fail this early. As I indicated earlier everything is fine now with the new batteries installed but I wonder if I should worry about other component damage. Attached ae photos of the rubber hood blocks and the passenger side positive battery terminal. Any feedback or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

Mine lasted 38 months. IDK where you are, but heat kills batteries.

 

Thanks Don. I'm in Colorado and it has been hot all summer and most of August. Temperatures well into the mid 90's. Nothing like Arizona though. I was actually wondering if the hood could get hot enough just sitting in the sun to start melting those hood blocks where they contact the metal.

 

Anything is probably possible. I would think that they would factor in the possibility that these trucks “could” sit out in the summer sun in places like.........anywhere that the sun shines In the summer. High temps even in our northern tier of states (ND, MT, MN, SD, WY) can reach well over 100*F!

 

My truck is just over 2yo and 24k miles, and it wouldn't start yesterday leaving work. Dealer replaced them and picking it up soon. I'm in AZ though, but grew up here and never had heat kill them, but sure seems to be the case this time! Happens all the time, was just a 1st for me

 

That looks like arc residue to me. Lightning? Sure could be.

 

I’m not 100% sure if a lightning strike would cause this, I’ve personally never heard of it. I would think as you noted a direct strike would leave a mark on the truck. A strike somewhere close I don’t think would be possible as the tires should insulate the truck.

 

Lightning is caused by potential energy. When the voltage potential per inch is great enough, lots of things become conductors, including air, wood, rubber, and wire insulation. It needn't be a direct strike (as in the air breaks down and ionizes), just when enough electrical potential swarming around. It is an erroneous and dangerous assumption that rubber is always an insulator!

 

I had my 2016 F350 work truck parked about 150 feet from a tree that took a lighting strike. It blew out the left front tire, and blew the right rear hubcap off. It traveled underground, left the work truck and hit the propane tank sitting next to the truck, then proceeded to blow things up in the house. There wasn't a mark on the truck or the propane tank, the tree didn't fare so well.
They ended up totaling the truck. Blew too much of the electrical system out.