Hello everyone,

I have a 04 F250, I just replaced the HPOP, discharge tube, IPR along with the batteries. I got it running, all pressures where good, took it down the road, filled it up at the gas station, came home and shut it off. Now it will not start again. I put a new CKP, CMP in it, I reading 48 volts on the FICM, with no codes, I have also reset the KAM on the tuner (stock no tune programmed). When the ICP is plugged in I'm getting 350 psi cranking no start, when unplug the ICP I'm getting 950 psi cranking with no start. The rpm's are not showing on the dash while cranking. The FICM half shell power side was replaced 6 months ago with one from the FICM fixer. The truck has new injectors in it, they were replaced 20k ago and they are warren diesel injectors. It is studded with the egr delete and BP diesel oil cooler. I am thinking that I either have a wiring harness problem or a FICM problem. Any thoughts on what might be the problem would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Unplugged is a referred value, you can unplug if you think the sensor is failed. Plugged in, you get a reading. Considering under both circumstances, you have an HPO leak or a bad new HPOP. Mark will tell you its the HPOP, and it may be.

That's where you start.

 

I did do a HPO leak check and didn't find anything

 

He probably has multiple issues.

Low ICP pressure (we need ICP sensor volts: KOEO and when cranking). If confirmed low cranking pressure, then air test (if he hasn't done that already).
No cranking rpms (we need to know if this means the dash indication is not showing rpms, or if the PCM doesn't show any rpms)
We need to know if there is Cam/Crank Sync and FICM Sync when cranking

There is a long thread in the Tech Folder that walks you through all the steps of troubleshooting.

It is true - I am not a fan of the 03 and 04 OEM HPOP's (lots of examples out there explaining why) - but at this point we don't have a clue what has been installed. I for one do not like to guess at a problem.

Not a fan of Warren injectors either.

 

How did you do the leak check?

If in fact there is no leak (which includes a stuck open IPR valve), and the ICP pressure is actually low ..... then possibly is an HPOP issue ..... or it could be an issue with the LPOP supply of oil to the HPOP.

Do you get the oil pressure gauge on the dash to come up when cranking?

 

yes leak check was done with no leaks found

 

air pressure at 100 psi through the ICP on the valve cover with a fitting

 

How did you close the IPR valve?
How long did you wait with the air pressure on the system?
Did you listen at each injector? Did you use anything that enhances hearing (stethoscope, or hose, or whatever)?

 

I took the icp out on the valve cover, installed the fitting, connected the air hose, tested it for about 20 min, listened with a stethoscope, and a friend listened as well after I was done. nothing was found.

 

Generally you should hear a leak (it will be from the pressure "dump" hole behind the HPOP gear) if you didn't actually command the IPR valve closed, but maybe the internal spring is keeping it closed tightly enough.

You should try with 150 psig air next IMO, and should test from the IPR valve port (using the special test fitting).

Also, there are some questions and some requests for data posted earlier that need to be answered (post #4).

 

I will try with 150 psi, and I will get the values needed. I appreciate the help.
I suspect I have a bad wire some where with the CKP since the RPM needle isn't moving while cranking.

side note- I have been told that my truck is a 2004.5 due to the ICP being on the passenger side valve cover. Is this true? I ask because I do not have the 2004.5 and up HPOP or cover, I have the 03/04 HPOP and cover.

 

The 2004.5 HPOP is essentially the same as the 2003 and 2004 HPOP.

You do have the 2004.5 since the ICP is on the valve cover. That means you have the wavy oil rails. Quite frankly I am wondering about the passenger side standpipe. There might be a problem with it that is restricting flow.

When you pressure test through the IPR valve port, you don't have to worry about air flowing backwards from the passenger standpipe into the drivers side oil rail (like you need when pressure testing from the ICP port).

Of course you can also remove the drivers valve cover and pressure test that side through one of the oil rail plugs. In fact, you SHOULD also test the drivers side when your testing from the ICP sensor port was the first step. The standpipe seriously restricts air flow going backwards to the other oil rail.

 

Well, I have nothing constructive to add to this methodical process that will surely lead to a satisfactory conclusion, so I'll stake out the longshots and try to win big. Some of these are good things to do anyway, when you got time to kill, maybe waiting on a part, or, like me, need something easy as I recover from some back-breaking task.

Maybe it is your harness. I had one that would do that, just random no starts. I replaced all kinds of parts, and each time, the truck would start when I did, so I assumed the part fixed it. Then, it'd do it again, another part, it starts. Finally, I figure out that if I just do nothing, it a short while it starts, and I'm off on the air leak chase. Finally, I figured out that if I just start tugging the wiring harness in different spots, and it starts. I never figured out where the issue was; each of the few times, when I got under the hood, I just tugged all the places, so I don't know which one was the culprit.

You didn't give us an IPR%, have you confirmed it is operating? And I know you just replaced it, but IPRs all look alike, even some of the used ones, and thieves might have switched their old for the new then returned it for a refund. It's always good to have a known good spare IPR (and FICM), or a buddy with a 6.0L. to confirm that yours is good. I actually just got back from the Pick U Part looking for those spares. Buy it cheap, fairly easy to install, test it, if good, keep it as a spare. Maybe more for diagnostic purposes than road use, or to tide you over until the budget allows the new purchase.

Even with a new, good IPR, the HPOP replacement could have left some dirt or metal in the oil, and burped it past your new IPR screen on that short drive. Kill some time by pulling it out, checking the screen, and it's free movement, spray it clean, and then confirm your electrical connection to it and the ground on the intake (I assume that ground includes the sensor's). That is a part, maybe the most frequent, that can blow at anytime, with no warning, and shut your truck down. A low of the other issues can often give you a hint of future trouble, but not the IPR.

Kill some time by watching your oil filter housing fill up to eliminate the LPOP as an issue. You never said whether it register pressure on the dash gauge.

Kill some time with a bubble test in the fuel bowl to quickly confirm that your injectors aren't the leakers.

Ditto with swapping in a known good FICM - where is the truck? I have a FICM we can test if you're in Houston.

As many times as you've cranked it, does it sound smooth and even, no dead cylinders?

I'm just blubbering now. Bartender! Over here.

 

BTW, there's a post or article somewhere describing the likely spots to check on the harness. Maybe the tech folder?

 

Ok

I have been working on this for a few days now. I have swapped sensors with known good ones. I have swapped FICM’s. I have done the wiggle the harness trick one section at a time. I have done multiple HPO leak tests. Checked the IPR screen many times. Checked the LPOP and fuel bowl. I am not new to how clean you have to be working on these temperamental 6.0’s.

I pulled the new HPOP out and will swap it out with another new one tomorrow.