Booms Efuel
My plan is simple, I wanted to convert to efuel using the SD pump and have it be as user friendly as possible.
The area available:
I have what appears to be plenty of room. The selector valve is about 6 inches behind the custom tank on the left side. The air conpressor is off to the far right. I want to mount the filters and pump at the top of the rail right before the crossmember. This will allow me to run the taller Cat filters and be pretty much level with the frame. My running boards hang lower.
Sounds easy, but the overall layout I want is fairly long. Ive added ball valve on the ends before the seperator and after the filter to allow filter/pump changes without the whole fuel system draining out. They add a few precious inches. I still need a few fittings before I can connect everything for a more precise layout.
I plan to tie into the existing 5/16 feed line. It already has a connector where they lengthened the frame. One the pressure side i may shorten and flare the hard line.
On the engine side I'll have the regulator being fed from the front with new hoses from Riffraff and tying into the factory return line.
The feed line will get a Y and go to the rear fittings. I haven't got that 100% sorted. My truck also has an H2E turbo swap and intercooler from Hypermax so I was unsure about the "kits" fitting. I liked the cnc fab hardline and regulator kit, but didbt want to mount the regulator way up on the hpop.
I know there are a few more budget oriented options out there but some of them reused various old parts to keep costs down and most of my stuff would've needed replaced so the cost would've climbed.
Any tips are welcome. I plan to update with a price list and source location when done. I'm aiming for 5-600 hopefully. But im a sucker for the "while I'm in there" repairs
I removed a dead brake line that spanned from wheel to wheel, so only about 15 feet. Only real tricky spot was negotiating through the various clips and such located behind the front tank. A new line had been run, but they didn't really secure it. Poor lines just flopping around. Another repair while I'm in here.
My truck had a slide in camper the previous owner used, so they had a plug going into the bed for power. I may remove that since I don't plan on needed it. If I keep it, I'll need to better protect it. That is the larger bundle that can be seen going above the frame rail in the pictures.
The frame rail itself is coming along nicely i think. Cleaning up very well. I can see where Centurion extended it. Butt welds, overlapping sections welded and then also drilled one side and spot welded to outside part. More secure then expected after reading about some of their work quality.
Back to work I go.
Yes, I would junk any hacker wiring. Additionally, I advise tossing in a 12VDC port in bed of your truck while in there...charge a phone, radio, rock a beer fridge, etc. I used 10awg wire so can rock a 30A fuse, my fuel pump assy has a 12awg as I recall. All marine grade, tinned ****. Check my thread on Rojo for a switched 12V to turn up on with key on. 12V in bed is always hot.
Got most of the bottom side of the efuel done. Just need to pick up some hose and clamps. The lines are all 5/16" except the outlet of the pump to the filter. I plan on using the stock lines, which are 5/16" in this area, to run up to the engine. Upgrading to 3/8" would be simple, swap the pump and fittings, run new line.
Here's my filter/pump assembly:
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Got most of the bottom side of the efuel done. Just need to pick up some hose and clamps. The lines are all 5/16" except the outlet of the pump to the filter. I plan on using the stock lines, which are 5/16" in this area, to run up to the engine. Upgrading to 3/8" would be simple, swap the pump and fittings, run new line.
Here's my filter/pump assembly:
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I removed the intercooler and the intake y first. I also pulled the turbo. That wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.
The fuel bowl came out easily since I had it out last winter chasing a no start. The pump also came out pretty easily, didnt even drop the plunger in the block. First time Go! The banjo bolt was extra fun, as everyone else who's replaced the pump can agree on.
I got the rear fuel lines loose, but I need to pull the pedestal off to get them out. Only other way is to chop them up. Need to clean under there and replace the orings anyway. Plus itll be easier to run the new lines.
Really tempted to pull the trigger on the bellowed up pipes since i need to unbolt half of them already.
Here's where I left off for the night.











