If you end up "massaging" the pinch weld make sure to go up and forward! I made the mistake of bending mine down and back. It looks like it should work that way but I can assure you it did not on my truck and was 20X the work to bend it the right way on the second try.

 

Ok, I wouldve thought down wouldve been a better way so it doesn't create a pocket for crud to accumulate.

Ill look at it closer today. I don't want to have to do it twice!

 

I removed my safety switch when I put the new engine in because i couldn't get the oil plug out to install the switch. I wired it to a toggle switch hidden in the cab.

They're pretty easy to find, just need an oil pressure switch with 1/8NPT thread, normally open.

 

Thats how I've wired upmost of my old cars. Had a toggle for "anti theft" purposes

 

I also have a toggle switch in mine. I chose not to put a oil pressure switch in because they were being problematic. I have had no problems but remember if you loose fuel pressure because the pump stops check the toggle switch and make sure it has not been tripped by accident. lol

 

FYI my toggle switch is in the trigger wire before the relay. You probably already know this.

 

I got the wiring all done today. Well for the pump relay, still need to rewrap and loom the engine harness. I will shorten the ipr harness and install the new 2 wire connector for it.

The fuel pump relay is mounted in the fsctory power distribution box under the hood. Everything is contained inside there, the only additional wires that leave the box are a ground and the fuel pump power wire itself.

I disassembled the box to add a couple terminals.

Constant power (relay pin 30)
There is a bus bar for the constant 12v, but needed to fab a connector to link to the actual maxi fuse. Added the maxi fise in slot 14 if I remember correctly. Its empty normally..

Ground (pin 86)
Simple ground wire exiting the pd box and ground to fenderwell by hood hinge.

Output (pin 87)
This is the pump power wire itself. Routed out of the pd box and along frame to pump. Punp is grounded via mounting bolt on frome for filters.

Trigger wire (pin 85)
I traced the red/green wire that was the fuel heater back all the way to the pd box itself. I popped the terminal for its maxi fuse out (post fiuse) and added a jumper wire over to my new relay to act as the trigger.

Seemed cleaner this way.
I have a picture of the wies going everywhere for you.


All the terminals are crimped and then soldered.

Tested it with a key on and everything worked flawlessly. Can't even hear the pump engage unless you bend over and put your ear down under the truck.

 

Worked on rewrapping the harness today. Got most of the drivers side done. Found the passenger side injector harnesses are both spliced already, once was done twice :/ I see the SD harness going in eventually to fix this if it goes bad.


I also got the new up pipes in. Heres One next to the old style.


Hopefully come Monday I can get these installed and reassemble the truck for a test fire.

 

Looking great!! This should be fun.

 

Been thinking about how to get the old up pipe out and the new ones in. The pinch weld isn't in the way, its the actual floor/base of firewall.

Ive considered tiltingtilting, but thatll just make it worse as itll push the pinch weld up area and I need it to go down.

Thought about undong a mount and tilting the engine, but don't think it'll tilt that much with the trans and everything still attached.

Seemingly leaves me with 2 options. Both are terrible. 1) is to try and massage that part of the floor inward a bit. It'll be a pain since its right at the corner where the trans tunnel is. Not gonna fold in easily, plus its not something that can be undone easily.
2) remove the manifold. Or at least enough to pull the pipe out. This is a bad idea because I'm sure that ill break at least all of the bolts taking it off.🤒

Any suggestions?

 

Do you or anyone you know have a port a power? I had the same issue, and the port a power moved it just enough. It also helped with the down pipe when I did the t4 install.

 

I too like it wired through the stock fuse block. Hope my data helped clean your harness.

Also curious how you will like the truck with boost and steady 65psi at rail.

 

I have considered a port-a--power. I tried using a prybar and the whole firewall flexes , its weird, feels like the firewall actually comes to a point closer to the engine right at that point. Mustve been the same engineer that did the banjo bolt on the pump. Ill probably rent one just to have. Buddy thinks we may be able to get it by undong the motor mount. Well see tomorrow.




I already can't wait to see how it runs! It looks better and it seems like it should shoualot better too. Fingers crossed.

Was going to add a connecter for the ipr, decided to just snip the wiring shorter and wire it right on to the existing length off the main harness.

The rear passenger fuel fitting might need tweaked. Its right against the up pipe on that side. Moght have to run that side over the pedestal plate.

Here's a shot if the engine valley currently

 

I clearanced my up pipes there with a combination of a big freaking pry bar and about 2 hours of a 2lb sledge. By far the worst part of the process for me.

 

Do you have an engine hoist?

Maybe you can loosen engine and trans mounts, pull entire assembly forward to its forward limit?