Bad clutch slave/master?
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Bad clutch slave/master?
1995 7.5l f250 w/zf
Clutch pedal doesn't always want to return from floor. Problem is essentially non existent when you first start driving, but after a while, it happens quite a bit. Aside from the sticking, clutch seems to work just fine though it is squeaky outside the truck when you push the clutch.
It isn't so much a problem after you take off since you can sort of pop the clutch pedal and have it return, but taking off from a stop can sometimes be interesting.
I've recently replaced the bushings in the pedal assembly and have had the heim joint mod done for years.
Is this a symptom of a master/slave setup that is doing weird stuff internally? I don't want to throw parts at it, but considering the problem gets worse with extended drives on the freeway (and not necessarily additional clutch use), I'm thinking maybe the heat could be causing things to act funny.
I assumed the pedal would return to the top even if there was a problem with the throw out bearing or release arm since it is all hydraulic, but I'm currently stumped if it isn't a mc problem.
Clutch pedal doesn't always want to return from floor. Problem is essentially non existent when you first start driving, but after a while, it happens quite a bit. Aside from the sticking, clutch seems to work just fine though it is squeaky outside the truck when you push the clutch.
It isn't so much a problem after you take off since you can sort of pop the clutch pedal and have it return, but taking off from a stop can sometimes be interesting.
I've recently replaced the bushings in the pedal assembly and have had the heim joint mod done for years.
Is this a symptom of a master/slave setup that is doing weird stuff internally? I don't want to throw parts at it, but considering the problem gets worse with extended drives on the freeway (and not necessarily additional clutch use), I'm thinking maybe the heat could be causing things to act funny.
I assumed the pedal would return to the top even if there was a problem with the throw out bearing or release arm since it is all hydraulic, but I'm currently stumped if it isn't a mc problem.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: South Dakota
That's a somewhat strange one, usually the clutch won't disengage. Is it possible that the master cylinder is totally overfilled with fluid? In other words is the rubber cup in place and only fluid up to the rubber cup? No fluid on top of the cup? Just a thought.
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I'll check that when I get home. It makes no sense to me at this point. Certainly seems like the master is not returning once it gets hot. Pedal moved freely when I had the assembly out of the truck, and I don't see how anything with the slave or beyond could keep the pedal down. Maybe you are on to something.
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yes, there was fluid behind the rubber!
But that didn't fix it. I'm going to wait for everything to cool down, and then I'm going to pull the release form and see what's up there. something is sticking enough that the fork isn't moving back on its own. I can tap the fork with a screwdriver when the pedal is stuck down, and it moves back to it's starting position. Considering the actual clutch works and makes no weird noises, I'm guessing I have a fork or bearing issue.
But that didn't fix it. I'm going to wait for everything to cool down, and then I'm going to pull the release form and see what's up there. something is sticking enough that the fork isn't moving back on its own. I can tap the fork with a screwdriver when the pedal is stuck down, and it moves back to it's starting position. Considering the actual clutch works and makes no weird noises, I'm guessing I have a fork or bearing issue.
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In an attempt to get this sorted, I ordered a new ford fork and a complete master/slave assy with the heat shield that was missing from my current setup. I *think* the squeak is from the slave, and the fork is simply to eliminate a <$20 item as a possibility.
I can slide the throwout bearing around with a long screwdriver so that doesn't seem to be sticking on the carrier.
I'll report back once rockauto and amazon deliver the parts.
I can slide the throwout bearing around with a long screwdriver so that doesn't seem to be sticking on the carrier.
I'll report back once rockauto and amazon deliver the parts.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
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From: South Dakota
Another thought the line between the master cylinder and the slave cylinder could be seized together. You have a lot more pressure going down as the hydraulic system is able to release the clutch.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: South Dakota
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I had considered that. I figure the complete pre-bled master/slave assy will eliminate that possibility too. And if all this doesn't fix it, I suppose I'll be pulling the trans to figure out what is going on. I don't want to drop the trans, but I'm not going to deal with the funky clutch situation indefinitely. At least this is just my beater, and I don't need it to be 100% right now.
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Pretty sure I got it all sorted. Installed the new clutch/slave assy with heat shield cover, and the clutch has never been so easy to push. The squeak appears to be gone too. Considering I didn't change anything mechanical (ford house shipped me a mustang clutch fork -- almost the same part number), I'm guessing the slaved was screwed up. I can assure you that the new slave was much harder to compress and situate than the old one. Will try to do a test drive in the coming days, but that may not happen.
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Just updating -
Everything has been working properly since replacing the master/slave. 99% sure the sticking slave was the problem all along, and I'm guessing the missing heatshield caused the sticking since it would get worse as the truck heated up each drive regardless of miles driven.
Everything has been working properly since replacing the master/slave. 99% sure the sticking slave was the problem all along, and I'm guessing the missing heatshield caused the sticking since it would get worse as the truck heated up each drive regardless of miles driven.
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From: Dothan
Regarding the firewall fatigue issue, does anyone have a source for the reinforcement plates that sold once sold? It seems there were two kits depending upon need; a small one with a part number E8TZ-7K509-A and a large one with the part number E3TZ-7K509-B. I have been striking out trying to find either. I have been able to patch my firewall a couple of times in the past but I really would like to solve this issue as it has just manifested once again.
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