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I have an intermittent issue that I'm wondering if someone might be able to pinpoint. From time to time when I try to start my truck it may or may not (mostly may) start. When it doesn't start, it acts like the solenoid is not completely engaging. I can hear the starter run. The funny thing is when it does it the engine tries to start and the solenoid disengages. The motor is a 300 and all of the battery cabling is new and tight. The solenoid is not the original, but I have not replaced it. Hopefully this makes sense. I'm leaning toward solenoid. Can anyone confirm?
Let me get this straight. When it fails to start, does the starter actually turn the engine? If so the solenoid is doing most of it's job. But then the engine tries to fire, but then loses power to9 the starter and fails to fire off? You should have a four pole starter solenoid, Batt+, Starter, Start, and Ignition Is the I terminal connected to coil+? This supplys 12V to the coil during cranking. Otherwise it sounds like an ignition switch issue. My $0.02.
Dan
Is it making grinding noises, or failing to engage and making whirly noises?
No grinding noises
Originally Posted by Thunderkiss1965
Let me get this straight. When it fails to start, does the starter actually turn the engine? If so the solenoid is doing most of it's job. But then the engine tries to fire, but then loses power to9 the starter and fails to fire off? You should have a four pole starter solenoid, Batt+, Starter, Start, and Ignition Is the I terminal connected to coil+? This supplys 12V to the coil during cranking. Otherwise it sounds like an ignition switch issue. My $0.02.
Dan
Your description is the most accurate. When it fails it does turn the motor, but loses power. I do have a four pole solenoid.
I'm thinking the ignition switch is the original so it makes sense it could be the issue. I guess I'll start there.
What may be happening is known as a “false start” which is a common problem of the Bendix drive where the gear disengages too quick from the flywheel. A weak starter or a tired battery can also be the cause. A new “Bendix” drive may be all you need. As posted above make sure the “bypass” circuit in the solenoid is sending 12 volts to the coil during cranking. The last year Ford used that style was in 64 and replaced it with the “Dyer” style of drive engagement. You can update to the 65 and up starter and they are less damaging to the flywheel because of the more positive engagement.
What may be happening is known as a “false start” which is a common problem of the Bendix drive where the gear disengages too quick from the flywheel. A weak starter or a tired battery can also be the cause. A new “Bendix” drive may be all you need. As posted above make sure the “bypass” circuit in the solenoid is sending 12 volts to the coil during cranking. The last year Ford used that style was in 64 and replaced it with the “Dyer” style of drive engagement. You can update to the 65 and up starter and they are less damaging to the flywheel because of the more positive engagement.
The battery is in good shape and the alternator is a new 90 amp model. The 300 is out of a 78 e100 as is the starter. My ignition switch has some play in it and I had wanted to change it out anyhow so I have the new one on the way. The weird thing it also does is if you have it in accessory without the truck running and turn it off, it sometimes will bump the starter. I know it shouldn't do that so I think it is going bad regardless. If it still does it after the new switch, the starter will be the next part replaced.
I have confirmed it is the starter. Figures since it is the only thing not replaced or rebuilt in the last year. A new one will be in there soon enough though.