6.0 low coolant
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6.0 low coolant
I am looking at buying my first diesel and I found a really clean 2004 6.0 With 155k miles on it that I am interested in. It’s had pretty much every thing done to it that needs to be done which includes bulletproofed, egr delete, blue spring kit, coolant filter kit, turbo back exhaust, air intake sct tuner etc. I test drove the truck already and it seems to run good it isn’t blowing any white smoke or anything and idles fine. However the other day the owner said that when he was towing his camper back (about a 13k load) the engine began to run a little hot and he had to add about a gallon of coolant to bring it back up to the fill line. It is a little concerning to me but he said that was the first time he has ever had to do it and when I test drove it it ran fine and didn’t seem to overheat or smell like coolant or anything. I was wondering if anyone has any insight into what the issue may be. Since it already had head gaskets and arp head studs done it would surprise me if the head gaskets blew again. Any info would be helpful though. I just don’t want to buy a new truck and have it in the shop right away.
thank you
thank you
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2018
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From: unfortunately Germany
If there is no external leak and the egr delete is done, the engine will burn it. I would first pressurize the cooling system with 20psi and look for a leak. If there is nothing externally, I would check the coolant pressure. 1 gallon is a lot, so the degas bottle is empty.
post #12: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1630655-looks-like-that-time-is-here.html
post #12: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1630655-looks-like-that-time-is-here.html
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
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From: Spanaway
Could also be the old degas bottle with the higher full line.
If filled to the line and pulling heavy it will puke coolant.
You will find a good how to look at a used 6.9L in the Tech Folder.
Also if you don't understand something or find something odd just ask and someone will help you out.
Happy looking.
If filled to the line and pulling heavy it will puke coolant.
You will find a good how to look at a used 6.9L in the Tech Folder.
Also if you don't understand something or find something odd just ask and someone will help you out.
Happy looking.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 242
Likes: 8
From: Cape Coral USA
If there is no external leak and the egr delete is done, the engine will burn it. I would first pressurize the cooling system with 20psi and look for a leak. If there is nothing externally, I would check the coolant pressure. 1 gallon is a lot, so the degas bottle is empty.
post #12: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-is-here.html
post #12: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-is-here.html
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2018
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From: unfortunately Germany
If the headgasket/s or the heads are cracked, the coolant will enter the combustion chamber and be pushed into the exhaust. If there is a small leak, you will not always see white smoke.
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If there is no external leak and the egr delete is done, the engine will burn it. I would first pressurize the cooling system with 20psi and look for a leak. If there is nothing externally, I would check the coolant pressure. 1 gallon is a lot, so the degas bottle is empty.
post #12: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-is-here.html
post #12: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-is-here.html
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 2,811
Likes: 1,907
From: unfortunately Germany
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cool thanks for everyone’s help
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
I hope your diesel mechanic has LOTS of experience diagnosing 6.0's. Not all of them can or are willing to do it properly. You should ask for references, for SURE.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,491
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From: Fresno, CA
Unfortunately ARP studs & HG's doesn't mean it was put back together properly and "bulletproof". See Yahiko's thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-is-here.html
Could also be some hoses down below that you aren't seeing the leak, or the radiator leaking. I would crawl around under the truck and look for coolant residue.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 2,811
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From: unfortunately Germany
This is the first step that every workshop should be able to take.
If nothing is visible after half an hour (of course all connections, hoses, radiator, heater core etc. must be checked carefully), then the coolant pressure must be checked (with warm engine and WOT). But: it can also be simple things like a broken degas bottle or a degas bottle cap that does not seal properly.
Good caps only open at 16-18psi, I filmed this once
If nothing is visible after half an hour (of course all connections, hoses, radiator, heater core etc. must be checked carefully), then the coolant pressure must be checked (with warm engine and WOT). But: it can also be simple things like a broken degas bottle or a degas bottle cap that does not seal properly.
Good caps only open at 16-18psi, I filmed this once
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
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From: Spanaway
I think I would more inclined to do a vacuum first before the
pressure as you can blow coolant places you don't want it to go.
EDIT : OOPS guess I should of watched that first. I thought you
were going to use pressure on the cooling system. The cap is
always a good place to start.
pressure as you can blow coolant places you don't want it to go.
EDIT : OOPS guess I should of watched that first. I thought you
were going to use pressure on the cooling system. The cap is
always a good place to start.
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