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I got the truck back together and it started right up. Good oil pressure but a load knocking and rough idle. I checked all of the coils and they all seed to be connected. I uploaded a short video. I made sure the colored links were split over the R and the L with L being in the passenger side. Any ideas before I take it to a mechanic? Thanks!
If you look at the diagram I sent passenger side will have R up .
I find that printing out diagrams and instructions are better than going by memory . Remember it is so confusing for a mechanic ,right and left are from drivers seat . Double checking your work after a break is very good business , having a friend with a critical eye is very helpful . Explaining how you are doing it and why to a good listener friend makes you learn volumes about the subject . I like to tell the friend to challenge me and speak up . Hand them the drawings etc.
How many times did I have to check my electricians work after he said he was ready . I always challenged them to find their own mistakes. Some got better at finding their own mistakes .
Sorry, I typed that wrong. I did put the L on the Drivers side. I need to drink more coffee before I try to post. Anyway, I took it to a mechanic this morning so hopefully I’ll know something soon. Thanks for all of the responses.
Makes sense it probably wouldn't have run if they were switched . Would have been nice to have seen some screen shots . The knock is a different story. Did you prime lashs or didn't you replace them .and rollers . Of course we hand oil everything during assembly . I can't run your mov file .
Hindsight 2020 I should have taken pictures of the new alignment on the phasers and crank gear. I did not replace the lashes or rollers. I just didn’t have the money at this time. I did oil everything down. I have it at a reliable mechanic and if he says they are the problem then I will find the cash to do it. Just allot going on right now. If it would have happened last October I would have done more but C’est la vie. I did change to high mileage 5w30. If that’s the cause then that will be awesome. I just can’t keep putting good $ after bad if the engine is shot. I’ll let you know what the mechanic says. Thanks!
We are not here to second guess you or push your budget. Only need say to what may be wrong or what to check ,we all have budgets. We all make mistakes posting . We are not there so we do have to ask hard questions . I have benefitted from advice on this forum , I would have been lost with out it and you tube-south main auto /ford tech malukoco . I do read the procedures from ford repair manual but I usually modify it to get away from special tools .
I only know the best advice is to replace rollers and lashs on a timing job as they have heavy wear and make a lot of engine noises .It is always good to check crank shaft end play before doing any heavy work on this engine,if it throws a thrust washer that engine is done . Oil pan must be removed and cleaned with the oil pu included. 5w-30 is good but high mileage stuff is wasted , sludge and dirt build up is the big problem you must dump it early . This engine uses dirty engine oil to hydraulically control cams thru small passages and screens . I do a engine flush every other time some do it every one .I did fail to use the old style steel tensioners because I wasn't sure about them ,I know better now .
Hopefully yours will resolve soon . I am old so I took several weeks to slowly do my timing job and fully grasp how it works . I am appalled at the heavy cost of the parts but a new truck is ridiculous. Saving my engine has saved me tens of thousands over the last ten years . It may get a reman at 300k or so .
Let us know how its going and if we can help .Once you conquer this engine you may want to help someone else on here.
Please what can phasers did you go with? A ford or?
I ordered a ford phaser on eBay. It came with a current part number printed on the packaging, but when I opened it up, it had a different part number, from what was stamped on it.
My question is, is the cam phasers I bought simply a repackaged, old one, or what?
This was the part number on the can phasers
Fomoco 3L3E-6C524-KA
This was the part number on the packaging: 3R2Z-6A257-DA 1X
Are the part numbers on the phasers not supposed to be same with what's in the packaging?
I wanted to close out this chapter on the truck. I had two loose wires for #2 and #6 plugs. There was no charge. Truck runs great! Now to get the 4WD fixed. That’s another thread. Thanks to everyone for your help! BTW, the phasers are from Ford.
With the crank dot at six you don't have to pay attn to no 1 piston . How ever the cam lobes position of no1 and no 5 and the phasor Land r in the right configuration per drawing verify cams correct . The pistons are firmly attached to the crank and there is only one place in a 360 degree position it can be in.
The cams turn one half turn of crank full turn , if you look at cam gear and crank gear you will see phasor gear twice as large . The cam decides which stroke its in not the crank . Cam decides valves position . put all your followers back in then check .Yes you must turn the crank two cw revs by hand and prove no valve to piston contact . And yes you will lose all your timing marks for 122revs .
don't get confused with crank key its just easier to see from the top than the crank dot most guys use a mirror to confirm dot /keyway . You can buy a tool that locks it in to pin on timing case if you like ,its not expensive . but the best tool is the toothed cam phasor tool that holds phasor in place for torquing and removal .
Believe me I went thru all that no 1 tdc stuff until I found out I was worried over nothing - besides timing is not right at no 1 tdc anyway .
I have a simpler method without pulling followers and using that expensive hard to use tool but I won't go into that now .
I'm at the same step right now as well but I wanna know the simpler way that doesn't require pulling the roller followers or the special tool....
With the crank dot at six you don't have to pay attn to no 1 piston . How ever the cam lobes position of no1 and no 5 and the phasor Land r in the right configuration per drawing verify cams correct . The pistons are firmly attached to the crank and there is only one place in a 360 degree position it can be in.
The cams turn one half turn of crank full turn , if you look at cam gear and crank gear you will see phasor gear twice as large . The cam decides which stroke its in not the crank . Cam decides valves position . put all your followers back in then check .Yes you must turn the crank two cw revs by hand and prove no valve to piston contact . And yes you will lose all your timing marks for 122revs .
don't get confused with crank key its just easier to see from the top than the crank dot most guys use a mirror to confirm dot /keyway . You can buy a tool that locks it in to pin on timing case if you like ,its not expensive . but the best tool is the toothed cam phasor tool that holds phasor in place for torquing and removal .
Believe me I went thru all that no 1 tdc stuff until I found out I was worried over nothing - besides timing is not right at no 1 tdc anyway .
I have a simpler method without pulling followers and using that expensive hard to use tool but I won't go into that now .
I'm at the same step right now as well but I wanna know the simpler way that doesn't require pulling the roller followers or the special tool....
Can somebody please explain to me how can we possibly get the timing wrong if the crank is in the 1 of 2 correct positions along with the caamshafts/phasers?????
I've timed my 2010 expedition 3 times the first time I replaced everything and even took the long road by doing the "proper" timing procedure. I was still receiving P0012 so I did it agan and after a very short period it came back and on my third attempt I realized I had a bad phaser so I replaced both and yet again like clock work P0012......
New phasers, guides, tensioners, sprocket, camshaft sensors, crankshaft sensor, spark plugs and coil packs I'm not sure what else to do?!?! All wiring and connections looks good, I keep up with the regular maintenance and oil changes so im ready to accidentally on purpose set the flame to her and collect the insurance LOL
Any info, tips, ideas any kind of help I well be grateful!!!
stop loading the parts cannon, test your sensors, even if new, with the quality being nil an void, with new parts, test them both, the new one and the old one, I replaced a fuel pump, and 6 days, 31 miles, it died.
I'm finding roller followers and lashes are very expensive for Ford OEM. In the article it stated that they are about $270.00 that I can live with. I cannot find them at that price. I've ordered twice on eBay and returned them both times because the ones illustrated in their ad show the new upgraded version but when I receive them they were not they were the older style. This is a frustrating ordeal can you please provide a link so I can order the newer version at the price quoted in the article.
Thanks for your time
Originally Posted by redfishtd
I do remove the cams carefully in sequence slowly per ford torque sequence . I had to replace all lashs and rollers anyway . Cam is torqued back down at timing point slowly watching rollers stay in place in sequence .89 inch pounds or around 8 foot pounds . No tool required for rollers . It makes cleaning head and cams easier all old parts must go back exactly where and how they came out. Cams are different left and right . Mark everything before removing . New of course doesn't apply . Cam journals are fitted so must go back exactly .
One downside is, its best to have two guys to get chains on as you have to fight valve springs One guy holds phasor with socket wrench while you put chain on it only takes a minute or so . While cams are out you get to see how pistons come to the top at only one place in 360 degrees .
Then leave it at six o'clock gear dot, hand lube everything ,put oiled cams in per drawing, then chains . Of course you oil soaked lashs overnight after you primed them per ford . Do not move crank until chains are on and tensioner pins pulled then verify everything before hand cranking two full turns of crank for no clunk or interference .
Note newer lashs are better and they are hard to test, rollers are new better design . Watch those old rollers for wear and the needle bearings start to fail on wheel ,one of mine got thrown to the side at 130k barely missing cam . A whole set of lashs/rollers around $270 but its worth it .
09-29-2020, 06:50 AM
