Hey guys so i’m doing a timing job I’m a 5.43 valve and I had somebody start it but I thought knew what they were doing I want to find out they had no clue they took the timing chains and guides off before setting the cams in the right position so now I’m going back behind him to fix it..so do I need to put the chains back on to get the cans in the right position or is there another way to do it now that’ its all apart

 

You can chose to disable the valve trains so you can safely move crank and set cams at timing point . What you want to do is avoid a collision of pistons and valves . If no valves are pushed down then it can't happen . You have several paths to do that .
You can take the valve tool and remove all 24 rollers carefully , keeping pressure on valve with your fingers to not let keepers fall out then dropping valve into cly - bad result . This is tedious and clumsy to me .
Another way to go is to pull both cams which means no valves will be pushed down . This is my best way . But you have to do it properly . It can seem daunting but its not if you study it and do it by the numbers .
You must mark all parts before you take them off , they must go back exactly as they came off . Lay them out in order so they won't get mixed up . Treat them like a baby .
Parts are removed slowly in sequence per ford . They are put back and slowly assembled in sequence. The idea is to put them back with rollers in place at the timing point watching carefully .
This also allows you to replace all rollers and lashs easily ,lashs are soaked overnight to purge air , best to soak rollers also .Hand oil all parts during assembly . . When putting chains on its necessary to have another set of hands on a socket wrench to put a little pressure on phaser bolt to fight the springs - no big deal . . Rollers are a high failure item its best to replace them all with new better design.
Do not get left and right backwards , use passenger/ drivers side instead . Forget all that keyway stuff use six oclock timing dot on gear and check your cam lobe direction on 1 and 5 on assembly .

 

Torque on cam bolts is 89 inch pounds , thats around 8 foot pounds but too low to really read properly on a foot pound wrench .

 

Thank you I’m im pulling the cams now I went a head and ordered new ones just to be sure that they are good and new time chain set

 

Oil filter housing is most likely leaking.

 

I looked at this again and I saw the timing tool hanging on crankshaft ,Thats an okay tool to help you see that crank is in right position . When hooked on dowel pin it keeps crank at six oclock . I can't see cam lobes but I wonder if it was close to timing point .,maybe your workers were close . If you had broken guides its a must to drop oil pan and clean plastic out of oil pu screen , unfortunately 4x4 are hard to do . I don't have 4x4 but others on here know the tricks for that . It can cause a severe loss of oil flow ruining your new parts. Even the plastic parts on the bottom of oil pan that are stuck by the muck down there are subject to breaking loose with heat and blocking oil flow . This engine needs a an oil flush every now and then , I do one every other oil change .

 

You can buy a camera and look around in the pan, and check the pick up, for peanuts.

 

There is no way to see in screen of oil pu ,it has a hood on it .Awful lot of black gunk in there. Very hard for light to see anything .,black absorbs the light ..You need to see if sparkly alum pieces are under all that and how much .Plus there is a chance that a thrust washer is laying in there.
Nice to see the bottom end and inspect bottom of pistons ,bearings and end play of crank . .

 

Actually there is I did it yesterday, you go through the drain hole.

look up depstech

This is what I bought.


You can see vary, very well.

watch a few youtube son it.


I am going to stick this thing everywhere,

 

And really if there is junk in the pan, you could dump some diesel fuel in from the front and wash out what ever then vacuum the rest.

Yes, I took about 5 feet of poly sprinkler line and and adapter to my shop vacuum, so I could clean behind myself as I worked,

I loaded the spark plug hoes with top end cleaner let them soak for a while then vacuumed them out,

Still had to use a breaker bar for at least a full turn, then went at them with the stubby impact.

None broke off.

That stubby 1/2 from harbor freight is a keeper.

Needed it for the harmonic balance puller, to.

 

Also there should be a moment of silence, for the NLOC passing.


I guess face==book killed it.

 

Also lift that power steering reservoir up right, it is leaking like that , it has a vent hole.

 

You need to do something with those ac lines, and that accumulator is done, it will have to be replaced.

It would be better to put the line back in place till is can be dealt with.

Really, this person did you wrong.

I am sure they did not recover the refrigerant either.