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Im sure this has been discussed before but I can't find it. Going to be pulling motor on my 99.5 F350 to replace oil pan. Motor has 377k mi on it. Besides the exhaust manifolds what else should I think about doing. Has some kind of leak in valley i haven't pin pointed yet as well.
Well, I'd reseal the oil cooler, install some bellowed up pipes for starters. @SkySkiJason Might say to break the coolant block plugs loose....never easier. He'll be along to help you.
might as well do pedistal orings, valley plug orings, reseal fuel bowl and hpop hoses while your in there. Clean ebpv tube and sensor, check glow plugs/injectors/harnesses
You’ll definitely want to do the $0.52 mod (google search) and might as well put new glow plugs on it while it’s ad easy as it will ever be. ONLY USE MOTORCRAFT GP’s!!! The aftermarket garbage will swell up and are very, very hard to remove...
I recommend either rebuilding (Riffraff or www.dieselorings.com ) the EBPV. Rebuild is about $70 and DIY delete is about $2). I recently did a little write-up for the ‘99-03 7.3 Tech folder on how to do this.
Youll want to check turbo for shaft play and damaged wheels. The Riffraff billet 4+4 compressor wheel is a nice upgrade if yours is damaged, but a replacement stock wheel is fine - just don’t use some chinesy junk from fleabay. If there is ANY in/out shaft play, rebuild the turbo with a 360* thrust washer kit as long as the wheels have not contacted the housings.
There are clamps on the fuel lines from filter to heads. These eventually wear holes in the lines. Remove and discard the clamps. If the lines are damaged//leaking, Riffraff makes an upgrade that will never need replaced. CNC Fab also has some options for replacing fuel lines (4-line feed kit).
There are a few common places for oil leaks on top of the engine. The fittings on HPO lines at HPOP and heads, a plug on the back of the HPOP, turbo and pedestal o-rings, etc. Dieselorings sells a ‘parts cabinet’ kit that has all of these and more. It’s a good investment.
Get the ‘upgraded’ blue o-rings for fuel filter drain valve when you order the ‘parts cabinet/combo’ kit. At least rebuild the filter water drain valve ($7) - the full filter rebuild is optional (just so much easier now!).
I know its not as hot up there in the great white north, but we all like our AC to blow COLD when we want AC. I recommend changing your orifice tube to a 38639 (or equivalent) and adding a valve to the heater core supply forvthe coooooldest AC possible on those HOT days. A 3/4” PEX barbed valve works great for this. (The return hose goes to the top of the water pump)
Ill check back with more ways to spend your time and money later. The rain stopped so I’m gonna go back to work!!
Ive also posted time saving ‘tricks’ for pulling these engines including leaving the PS and AC systems intact. (Leave AC compressor and PS pump bracket in the truck).
For rust belt trucks, I have the new oil pan sprayed with Pro bedliner. Consider a weld in dipstick flange too since your old one is likely unusable.
As you can see, I’m a ($16/tube) Motorcraft TA31 guy. Not a fan of the $80 gaskets...
Unless you nose truck in garage to make a video of a 2hr engine pull and you can’t raise the hoist high enough because you are under the garage door... Then, you have to pull header panel at the last minute. Like this:
Ive also posted time saving ‘tricks’ for pulling these engines including leaving the PS and AC systems intact. (Leave AC compressor and PS pump bracket in the truck).
For rust belt trucks, I have the new oil pan sprayed with Pro bedliner. Consider a weld in dipstick flange too since your old one is likely unusable.
As you can see, I’m a ($16/tube) Motorcraft TA31 guy. Not a fan of the $80 gaskets...
Thank you for the info. Definitely gonna do the weld in dip stick tube. My current 1 is held in place with a can of the great stuff and probably 2 cans on the oil pan. Im using bed liner to paint the entire truck and was gonna do something to protect it. Right now the truck has more leaks then the Iraqi navy but slowly its coming together.
Sorry if off topic... @SkySkiJason is that valve on the coolant line a different way to approach the ac mod? It seems to be a manual valve. Ive read the most common way to have colder ac is the “ac mod” is which you install a valve that is actuated from inside the cabin via the max ac switch on dash.
Sorry if off topic... @SkySkiJason is that valve on the coolant line a different way to approach the ac mod? It seems to be a manual valve. Ive read the most common way to have colder ac is the “ac mod” is which you install a valve that is actuated from inside the cabin via the max ac switch on dash.
Yes, coldest AC comes from shutting off the coolant flow SUPPLY to the heater core. I close this valve all summer and pop the hood the first cold AM in the fall and open it.
The ‘common mod’ uses a valve with a hole in it (doesn’t prevent flow)) on the heater core RETURN hose. It also only closes in MAX AC mode.
Showing out doing this with the hood still on there! Excellent work as always sir
Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
This is my next mod.. I pulled the evaporator, cleaned 21 years of dirt off it and it easily doubled the air flow. Now I would like to eliminate the heat from the hvac blend box all together.
Out of curiosity, can the full turbo setup "installed" come out and go back in with the motor? Or does the turbo have to be removed? I've never pulled the motor, and I'm curious just how hard it would be, and what all has to be removed? I haven't done the research on this subject yet.
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