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Out of curiosity, can the full turbo setup "installed" come out and go back in with the motor? Or does the turbo have to be removed? I've never pulled the motor, and I'm curious just how hard it would be, and what all has to be removed? I haven't done the research on this subject yet.
Turbo and up-pipes need to come off. Unless you jack the front of the cab up. You’ll need to jack cab to install 7.3 in front of a ZF6. So, might as well go high enough to leave turbo on for those.
Turbo and up-pipes need to come off. Unless you jack the front of the cab up. You’ll need to jack cab to install 7.3 in front of a ZF6. So, might as well go high enough to leave turbo on for those.
ZF6 has a long input shaft that has to line up with the pilot bushing. I’ve never been able to get the angle right without lifting cab. I think ‘pros’ often drop trans and reinstall with engine back in.
My 7.3 is out for the same reason right now- are you using a moroso gasket for the oil pan? Using same oil pan or new one? I have 286k on mine- doing the oil cooler o ring, Resealing the HPOP, going w stage 1+ injectors, and probably dropping a new turbo in(mine rebuilt 100k ago but I don’t want to go under the hood again fo a while). I just had a new A1 transmission a year ago and now this but I just can’t bring myself to get rid of it.
My 7.3 is out for the same reason right now- are you using a moroso gasket for the oil pan? Using same oil pan or new one? I have 286k on mine- doing the oil cooler o ring, Resealing the HPOP, going w stage 1+ injectors, and probably dropping a new turbo in(mine rebuilt 100k ago but I don’t want to go under the hood again fo a while). I just had a new A1 transmission a year ago and now this but I just can’t bring myself to get rid of it.
I can’t justify the $80 moroso gasket when $16 TA31 has never let me down.
Spend that $$$ on a weld in dipstick flange or something useful.
New Spectra pan is under $100. Pro bed liner is $25-50 - depending on your negotiating skills. (Not DIY junk. A real 2-part heated polyurethane...)
following this thread, we are about to do a swap on my sons 2002 f250 SD 7.3
Does anyone have a list of the while you are in there' repairs etc /
we are planning to do the oil cooler and new radiator hoses, belts, turbo and turbo pedestal. I am assuming we should do the water pump also?
What is this about replacing the oil pan? Motor we are putting back only has 143k.
we have the automatic transmission so that means we DO NOT HAVE TO JACK THE CAB ????
following this thread, we are about to do a swap on my sons 2002 f250 SD 7.3
Does anyone have a list of the while you are in there' repairs etc /
we are planning to do the oil cooler and new radiator hoses, belts, turbo and turbo pedestal. I am assuming we should do the water pump also?
What is this about replacing the oil pan? Motor we are putting back only has 143k.
we have the automatic transmission so that means we DO NOT HAVE TO JACK THE CAB ????
thanks
Remove clamps on fuel lines to heads.
Install new bellowed up-pipes.
DIY delete the EBPV for $1 instead of buying a pedestal and outlet adapter.
Do the $0.52 mod.
Replace GP’s.
I can change water pump in 45mins and they never fail catastrophically. This can wait if no play in shaft?
CLEAN radiator, CAC, trans cooler, and condenser.
Easy time to upgrade to 6.0 trans cooler.
Remove cooling system drain plugs in block while engine is OUT.
Upgrade HPO hoses.
At least rebuild fuel filter water drain valve - if not the whole filter housing.
No need to lift cab for auto trans.
The oil pan is not the problem. When the coating is compromised, the pan rusts through. That’s why I have the bedliner sprayed on them.
Here’s a time lapse of a 2hr engine pull for inspiration. I screwed up and was under the garage door, so couldn’t go high enough to get over the header panel and had to remove it at the last minute.
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