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Old Aug 23, 2020 | 12:07 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by sjbj
Out of curiosity, can the full turbo setup "installed" come out and go back in with the motor? Or does the turbo have to be removed? I've never pulled the motor, and I'm curious just how hard it would be, and what all has to be removed? I haven't done the research on this subject yet.
Turbo and up-pipes need to come off. Unless you jack the front of the cab up. You’ll need to jack cab to install 7.3 in front of a ZF6. So, might as well go high enough to leave turbo on for those.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2020 | 09:40 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Turbo and up-pipes need to come off. Unless you jack the front of the cab up. You’ll need to jack cab to install 7.3 in front of a ZF6. So, might as well go high enough to leave turbo on for those.
Jacking the cab not required for 4R100 I take it?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 06:33 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by sjbj
Jacking the cab not required for 4R100 I take it?
Correct.

ZF6 has a long input shaft that has to line up with the pilot bushing. I’ve never been able to get the angle right without lifting cab. I think ‘pros’ often drop trans and reinstall with engine back in.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 07:25 PM
  #19  
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My 7.3 is out for the same reason right now- are you using a moroso gasket for the oil pan? Using same oil pan or new one? I have 286k on mine- doing the oil cooler o ring, Resealing the HPOP, going w stage 1+ injectors, and probably dropping a new turbo in(mine rebuilt 100k ago but I don’t want to go under the hood again fo a while). I just had a new A1 transmission a year ago and now this but I just can’t bring myself to get rid of it.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 07:34 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Jointasset
My 7.3 is out for the same reason right now- are you using a moroso gasket for the oil pan? Using same oil pan or new one? I have 286k on mine- doing the oil cooler o ring, Resealing the HPOP, going w stage 1+ injectors, and probably dropping a new turbo in(mine rebuilt 100k ago but I don’t want to go under the hood again fo a while). I just had a new A1 transmission a year ago and now this but I just can’t bring myself to get rid of it.
I can’t justify the $80 moroso gasket when $16 TA31 has never let me down.

Spend that $$$ on a weld in dipstick flange or something useful.

New Spectra pan is under $100. Pro bed liner is $25-50 - depending on your negotiating skills. (Not DIY junk. A real 2-part heated polyurethane...)
 
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Old Sep 10, 2020 | 03:47 PM
  #21  
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following this thread, we are about to do a swap on my sons 2002 f250 SD 7.3

Does anyone have a list of the while you are in there' repairs etc /
we are planning to do the oil cooler and new radiator hoses, belts, turbo and turbo pedestal. I am assuming we should do the water pump also?

What is this about replacing the oil pan? Motor we are putting back only has 143k.

we have the automatic transmission so that means we DO NOT HAVE TO JACK THE CAB ????

thanks
 
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Old Sep 10, 2020 | 06:43 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Camuchi
following this thread, we are about to do a swap on my sons 2002 f250 SD 7.3

Does anyone have a list of the while you are in there' repairs etc /
we are planning to do the oil cooler and new radiator hoses, belts, turbo and turbo pedestal. I am assuming we should do the water pump also?

What is this about replacing the oil pan? Motor we are putting back only has 143k.

we have the automatic transmission so that means we DO NOT HAVE TO JACK THE CAB ????

thanks
Remove clamps on fuel lines to heads.

Install new bellowed up-pipes.

DIY delete the EBPV for $1 instead of buying a pedestal and outlet adapter.

Do the $0.52 mod.

Replace GP’s.

I can change water pump in 45mins and they never fail catastrophically. This can wait if no play in shaft?

CLEAN radiator, CAC, trans cooler, and condenser.

Easy time to upgrade to 6.0 trans cooler.

Remove cooling system drain plugs in block while engine is OUT.

Upgrade HPO hoses.

At least rebuild fuel filter water drain valve - if not the whole filter housing.

No need to lift cab for auto trans.

The oil pan is not the problem. When the coating is compromised, the pan rusts through. That’s why I have the bedliner sprayed on them.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2020 | 10:56 PM
  #23  
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Thank you Jason

i am making notes. 👍
 
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 06:45 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Camuchi
Thank you Jason

i am making notes. 👍
Start a thread about your project when you start. We like projects and PICTURES.

 
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 08:18 AM
  #25  
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I will do that , always good to have some partners in the game with you , especially when you hit a ditch !!
 
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 12:28 PM
  #26  
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Just wondering if there is a list of things to disassemble for removal? I thought someone had done one but I have not been able to find it.
Thanks
 
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 04:01 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Amicus
Just wondering if there is a list of things to disassemble for removal? I thought someone had done one but I have not been able to find it.
Thanks
This was a long time ago. My best time was about 2hrs, but I’ve past my peak now. Lol.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...scription.html


Then i put it back in here.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...scription.html

Here’s a time lapse of a 2hr engine pull for inspiration. I screwed up and was under the garage door, so couldn’t go high enough to get over the header panel and had to remove it at the last minute.


Find my up-pipe replacement thread in the tech folder for the big tip abouybthe babies butt clamp and how to DIY delete EBPV.

Anybody know what photo*******s wants to let our pics and videos out of hock?
 
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 08:38 PM
  #28  
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I watched that video earlier this week!
was a great encouragement!
 
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