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The dash cover, the plastic colored part, comes off pretty easy too. ....after the dash is out. Go to the 7.3 forum and hit up @SkySkiJason ...he's done a bunch of this type of stuff.
You will swap every single wire in the cab unless you want an abortion that nobody can ever diagnose problems with. It’s a little time consuming, but not hard. Lots of differences from ‘99-01 and ‘02+.
The whole dash drops out in about 20mins, then swap wiring over if the new cab has a different color.
As far as VIN goes, it is unlawful to swap VIN. If you are not commercial and NEED the GVWR of the F550, then just run with the F350 title. Nobody cares what frame and axles are under the truck.
My cab chassis F350 requires commercial insurance. I had a separate policy for it for years until I found out the commercial policy was CHEAPER for my other cars...
Get new, bellowed up-pipes from Riffraff. These are the highest quality available and worth the investment. Do not use stock-type up-pipes and I don’t recommend non-SS versions like dorman. All stock up-pipes leak by now. The SS bellowed version will probably outlast the truck.
For coating/rust mitigation, I clean chassis with pressure washer and zero degree rotating tip. You need to remove any loose rust and dirt and 100% of the oil and grease. HOT water p-wash and liberal use of your favorite degreaser is best. For really nasty stuff, a pass with a scraper, stiff brush and diesel may be in order.
Prime with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. I paint INSIDE all the holes in frame, etc with a chip brush first (hard to get spots), then roll a couple coats on with a thick nap cigar roller. Thickness counts!! BUT, follow application and recoat directions.
Use Rustoleum High Performance Enamel for finish coats. Also painting holes etc before each full coat - again using cigar roller and multiple coats.
These products are $26/gal at home cheapo and will outperform any of the high dollar crap with giant advertising budgets (pooor15 sucks...)
I also use Fluid Film NAS on trucks going to the rust belt. Using the FF applicator with 2ft wand I liberally apply the stuff inside the rockets and every other crack and crevice of the body. Use your rusty truck as a guide where you need it the most.
Every year, Pressure wash chassis, etc and touch up paint if needed using the same method described above for spots (usually just places not prepped/degreased adequately the first time) - then apply more Fluid Film.
We start with rust free trucks here in thd south!!
The large areas are just where I brushed out the runs when I slopped paint in the holes, etc.
If you don’t address the holes, there will be missed spots and they will rust and may cause nearby paint to flake/peel. We want 100% coverage with no ‘holidays’ in the paint!
You simply cannot get the coverage and thickness trying to spray a coating on a frame like this. Brush and roll for the WIN.
Yeah, there are brush marks and roller ‘texture’ in my paint. But, that **** doesn’t RUST!!!
I also paint the engine and often powder coat stuff that bolts on it. I tell my friends I can stop anytime i want....
Rustoleum 2x coverage spray paint is fine. ‘Engine paint’ is a gimmick/not needed. You can use any colors you like.
Hot parts (exhaust manifolds, turbo exhaust housing, etc) Get VHT Flameproof (2000* coating).
Youll specifically want to prime and paint the oil pan with the same products I recommend for frame.
I dont really do this ‘for looks’ - I hate the color of RUST and what it does.
Let me make another post about ‘while you’re in there’ stuff.
You’ll definitely want to do the $0.52 mod (google search) and might as well put new glow plugs on it while it’s ad easy as it will ever be. ONLY USE MOTORCRAFT GP’s!!! The aftermarket garbage will swell up and are very, very hard to remove...
I recommend either rebuilding (Riffraff or www.dieselorings.com ) the EBPV. Rebuild is about $70 and DIY delete is about $2). I recently did a little write-up for the ‘99-03 7.3 Tech folder on how to do this.
Youll want to check turbo for shaft play and damaged wheels. The Riffraff billet 4+4 compressor wheel is a nice upgrade if yours is damaged, but a replacement stock wheel is fine - just don’t use some chinesy junk from fleabay. If there is ANY in/out shaft play, rebuild the turbo with a 360* thrust washer kit as long as the wheels have not contacted the housings.
There are clamps on the fuel lines from filter to heads. These eventually wear holes in the lines. Remove and discard the clamps. If the lines are damaged//leaking, Riffraff makes an upgrade that will never need replaced. CNC Fab also has some options for replacing fuel lines (4-line feed kit).
There are a few common places for oil leaks on top of the engine. The fittings on HPO lines at HPOP and heads, a plug on the back of the HPOP, turbo and pedestal o-rings, etc. Dieselorings sells a ‘parts cabinet’ kit that has all of these and more. It’s a good investment.
Get the ‘upgraded’ blue o-rings for fuel filter drain valve when you order the ‘parts cabinet/combo’ kit. At least rebuild the filter water drain valve ($7) - the full filter rebuild is optional (just so much easier now!).
I know its not as hot up there in the great white north, but we all like our AC to blow COLD when we want AC. I recommend changing your orifice tube to a 38639 (or equivalent) and adding a valve to the heater core supply forvthe coooooldest AC possible on those HOT days. A 3/4” PEX barbed valve works great for this. (The return hose goes to the top of the water pump)
Ill check back with more ways to spend your time and money later. The rain stopped so I’m gonna go back to work!!
Thank you for the great detail, pictures and your input. It is a lot to absorb but very welcome. I am hoping to have this truck operating for winter. I am not necessarily looking for a museum piece but don't want a piece of crap when done either. I am not all that savvy when it comes to all the lingo. I am very capable and will get it done so I ask that you please stick around and continue to advise once I dig into this. I am not a mechanic and know little about diesels. But, I can do it.
I have a question about dump beds. As mentioned this is a crew cab truck. It presently has a 9 foot long dump bed. The sides are pretty rough. I found a 10 foot dump bed for a good price. Will it fit or is it too long? The 9 foot on there goes all the way to the end of the truck frame. What is the largest dump bed I can put on a 2001 F550 crew cab 4x4?
Thanks.
You CAN do it!! It’s a big, honking truck. Not a Swiss watch. There aren’t a million pieces and an impossible puzzle. It’s a large undertaking, but not unrealistic for someone mechanically inclined. It’s was ALL made to come apart and go back together.
I’ll get notifications if you or someone else posts in this thread, so I’ll see that - but you are welcome to private message me and I’ll send you my number and you can call or text if you get in a bind. Meanwhile, the ‘99-03 7.3 subforum is full of super knowledgeable guys who will also answer questions and give advice. Definitely spend some time reading in the Tech Folder. Great base of knowledge there and you’ve got plenty of time to learn this new language!!
The minimum bed length for a cab chassis truck like yours is 9ft. That is a 60” cab to axle. It is common to see 10ft beds on those trucks. It depends on how the dump beds are built and installed whether it will be an easy swap or not.
I am having trouble removing the mason dump body and frame. I have removed 2 bolts on each side of the dump frame that are on a bracket about 18 inches from the cab. The rear I thought would come off after removing 4 bolts on each side that bolt to the frame. I can see daylight between the truck and dump frame all the way from back to front. I can get the front to raise up but the back won't budge. Should that entire plate with pintle come off with the dump? That is what I was thinking. It seems like the back needs to move back before it could move up because it appears the frame is sandwiched around the mount. It will not budge. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
@SkySkiJason Hello, do you have any advice/tutorial/steps to remove the entire dash? I have not touched it yet and would like any input you are willing to provide. Does that VIN on the dash move with the dash? Thanks!
Oh my..... Rust sucks. I would not try to fix that if you have a nice cab.
Youll unplug all of the wires you can find, unhook the shift linkage and the steering sector shaft.
Then there are (5)? usually green 10mm bolts that drop the whole dash. (2) on each side and one near the center over transmission tunnel. There will be wires and vacuum hoses as well as antenna wire that you’ll probably miss and have to wrestle with while dash is hanging precariously. A helper or 2 is recommended.
No, the VIN is on the cowl - not dash. It is riveted with special rivets right under the windshield.
Oh my..... Rust sucks. I would not try to fix that if you have a nice cab.
Youll unplug all of the wires you can find, unhook the shift linkage and the steering sector shaft.
Then there are (5)? usually green 10mm bolts that drop the whole dash. (2) on each side and one near the center over transmission tunnel. There will be wires and vacuum hoses as well as antenna wire that you’ll probably miss and have to wrestle with while dash is hanging precariously. A helper or 2 is recommended.
No, the VIN is on the cowl - not dash. It is riveted with special rivets right under the windshield.
After he gets the radio out, two green screws above that.....You'll need a helper/
Oh my..... Rust sucks. I would not try to fix that if you have a nice cab.
Youll unplug all of the wires you can find, unhook the shift linkage and the steering sector shaft.
Then there are (5)? usually green 10mm bolts that drop the whole dash. (2) on each side and one near the center over transmission tunnel. There will be wires and vacuum hoses as well as antenna wire that you’ll probably miss and have to wrestle with while dash is hanging precariously. A helper or 2 is recommended.
No, the VIN is on the cowl - not dash. It is riveted with special rivets right under the windshield.
The Frame and suspension sure look good though.
I would imagine it would be a good idea to take out the old dash now before attempting to remove the cab. Would you agree?
Oh another thing was I read somewhere about how not to disturb the steering wheel because of some clock spring or??? That wheel got turned. Thing not locked. How will I know where to put it later? Maybe the wheel out of the donor will get used. Prior to disengaging the arm I will duct tape it so it doesn't turn.
Regarding dash removal, would I be just going for the bolts and wires and vaccum lines and trying to get it out as assembled as possible or would I be taking apart the entire thing? If I knew, I would not ask. I see a video of a guy and wonder if this is the process. Does this video represent the process?
