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It’s sat for about 5 years, we have changed the battery, spark plugs, gas tank, and fluids. All it does is when I go to start it I hear a clunk. Tried to turn the balancer bolt with socket and wrachet and had no luck.
sounds like the rings are rusted in place. best bet you have is to pull the plugs and get a bottle of MMO mix it 50/50 with 10w30 motor oil in a oiler and put 2 pumps in each cylinder and let it sit over night. try to turn the engine by hand again the next day if nothing put another 2 pumps in each cylinder and let sit over night.
I did this with my 292 that sat for close to 33 years that was seized. took about 4 days of soaking to get the engine to turn over by hand. Been running ever since.
That's what I figured. Be patient. Remove the spark plugs and squirt a few ounces of Marvel's Mystery Oil in each cylinder. Let it sit a few days and put some more in. It may take a few weeks to loosen up. Make sure any old stale or varnished gasoline is removed, it will burn but it turns to glue inside the engine after shutdown.
In addition to the suggestions try to rig up your hinged handle AKA breaker bar on the crank shaft bolt with either a ratchet strap or a jack from under the truck to put a constant pressure on the engine.
Worse case would be you have to rebuild the engine. It can get worse from there by how much damage to the engine but for now one of two things will happen. Either the engine will come unseized and will spin over which then brings the next question if it is mechanically sound to run or the engine will remain frozen in place which means it could have a bottom end failure that locked the motor up.
Either the engine will come unseized and will spin over which then brings the next question if it is mechanically sound to run ...
This is a good point, if it does free up, then it is wise to check the engine out carefully first before throwing any parts at it. Compression test. Cylinders will often have low psi on something that sat a long time, but it would be real good to know that there aren't any show stoppers lurking inside. Compression will come back up (if not too worn) with driving.
This is a good point, if it does free up, then it is wise to check the engine out carefully first before throwing any parts at it. Compression test. Cylinders will often have low psi on something that sat a long time, but it would be real good to know that there aren't any show stoppers lurking inside. Compression will come back up (if not too worn) with driving.
Especially with a engine that you know nothing about. I didn't go to all that trouble with my 292 as I knew the history of the engine and the reason why it sat for 30 years is cause the original owner my grandfather passed away. But in his case without knowing why it was parked oh man that can be a snake waiting to bite him.
Have one at work like this, guy believes the paperwork from 1982 for a new remanufactured engine installed in his truck makes the motor only have some 50,000 miles. We pulled it apart for him to reseal it paint it and throw a top end kit from edelbrock on it. Upon disassembly I found out the motor has been rebuilt once before and clearly has well over 100k miles on it to have enough slack in the double roller timing set that you could almost pull the chain off. Cylinders were also running 0.060" over pistons and had a huge ridge on them. But guy didn't want us to rebuild the block. That could be something with that I6, it might be a worn out engine and parked for some mechanical problem such as lack of oil pressure or a rod knock.
If the bores aren't too worn or tapered, just replacing piston rings and bearings will go a long ways. Millions of people used to do just that in their backyard, without even pulling the engine. Some new gaskets and seals, timing set, lap the valves, and Bob's Yer Uncle.
If the bores aren't too worn or tapered, just replacing piston rings and bearings will go a long ways. Millions of people used to do just that in their backyard, without even pulling the engine. Some new gaskets and seals, timing set, lap the valves, and Bob's Yer Uncle.
Yep Ive done that before as well. But if a rebuild is needed have to ask yourself if you want to go back OE or do you want to make improvements. on my 306 build for my truck I keep eyeing seal pro gapless piston rings for my short block. they've been out for a while now, seems to have good reviews and id be all for the efficiency. but that I hear requires special setup unlike just throwing OE spec rings in a backyard overhaul.
1083 1982
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