This is a continuation of my 'engine removal' thread.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12520627

I pulled the engine out of my Excursion at a friends shop in KS, where it broke down. He insisted I pull all the stuff off the front-end and I was taught 'When in Rome, do as the Romans do'. This is NOT what I recommend, or what I will ever do again.......

So, after degreasing and thoroughly cleaning the engine bay - it received a fresh coat of paint:



The engine was prepped with more fresh paint and up-pipes were installed as well as engine wire harness, etc. I also pulled and inspected injectors, but would recommend at least checking the TQ on injector hold-down bolts and all the rocker arm bolts. Also, replace or at least ohm the GP's. If you are unsure about oil cooler, rebuild it as well. Its not a bad idea to go ahead and rebuild the fuel bowl if it hasn't been already. NOW, is the time for all of this.







Here we go!





I put a rag on the x-member so I didn't scratch my oil pan...



Almost home! At this point, I had to jack up the transmission to allow the flexplate to get into the bellhousing. This was as far as the engine would go back before I did this:





Then it was a matter of lowering the engine and trans 'together' so the dowels lined up with the holes in the trans:





And its IN:





At this point, I loosely installed the 'long' trans bolts one at a time. Ran out of time for the day... I hope to get the rest of it done today after work. More then!!

Btw, if I was putting this in with the front-end on the truck I would've put the accessories on the front of the engine.

I cannot begin to express how much EASIER it is to install an engine in front of an auto trans..... I have yet to install one in front of a ZF6 without jacking the front of the cab up several inches. While this added step in itself is no big deal (removing all but the rear cab bolts) - the actual work of lining the trans input shaft up with the clutch and pilot bearing as well as the dowel pins, etc is a major PITA!!!

 

Good work, looking forward to the finished project. When my time comes in 4 or 5 months I hope to manage the out and in both in one glorious (pain filled) weekend.

 

Good job Jason. Subscribing.

 

Looks great. Take it easy on those brakes when it is running until you can order more

 

You can see that in the pics?????????

Lol. Shouldn't be a problem. I'm not towing anything except to go get a couple 100gals of high-cholesterol fuel and then the Fla road trip after Christmas. I plan to be a gigolo while I'm down there to make some extra $$$. Its too bad I don't have a sugar momma any closer - but then again, that is not entirely an accident!

Besides, the front brakes are fine!

 

Oh yeah, pulled pork sammich and sweet tater fries for lunch today...

 

Jason, looks like alot of work to me. I am glad mine is up and running now. Sure is nice to be able to crank it when ever I want to no matter what the outside temp is. Got to get with you on your wire harness if I ever get it from Clay. Want you to show me some AE test to see if all is well with the new set up, all seems to be fine except maybe the idle but may just be me. The biggest problem I am having is keeping my wife out of it she like to drive it now.

 

I'm sure we can pull that off Greg. Lemme know when and we'll do our best to come up and make it happen for ya!!

Of course, I could get there faster if ya let me borrow those injectors and turbo ya got layin' around up there someplace!

 

It may be alot of work, but its soooo much more rewarding than my real job.......

Glad to hear it Scott. Lemme know when you're ready, I'm happy to help!

 

Ok, put the rest of the trans to engine bolts in, motor mount nuts, installed starter, plugged in the block heater cord and installed the pyro probe. That should be everything under the truck except flexplate to TC bolts...

Then installed the turbo and hooked up downpipe. I had to scrounge thru the shop and find some parts to re-route my veggie lines due to interference with the turbo inlet piping.

I added the brass 90* fitting near the valve.


Then installed the downpipe adapter and oil supply line:


Filled the new turbo with oil before I stuck it all the way in there:


Had to make a 'stubby' wrench for the top turbo bolts:


And the turbo is DONE!




Just ate some dinner and I'm headed back down to get this project finished up. The pile of parts is getting smaller!!! I'd say I would finish tonite, but I started drinking beer - so I dunno!!

 

Looking good man. Can't wait to see how you like the finished project. Glad you're doing this yourself.

 

jason,
how did the down pipe work out??

 

Did you get the batteries swapped out from communist wal mart yet? Looks good. You are cooking with gas.....er........uh, I mean oil now. Good call to fill that turbo bearing with oil before you hooked up the lines.
Did the wippersnapper take his carb off and clean out the main jet yet?

 

It sure is tight, but I don't think its touching anywhere. The return heater hose however is a problem. There is a tee (for the rear heater) just a few inches away from the downpipe adapter and then a 90* in the hose - the 90* makes full contact w/adapter in its natural position... I have some ziptie magic keeping it out of harms way right now, but I may commit to modifying the hoses for a more permanent solution.

Yep, screw autozone for batteries. *flip-off* I took these to wally and told them I 'just' took them off the charger, but they will not hold a charge and fail to start the truck after it sits a couple days. They load-tested them and the damned things 'passed' - each showing just over 100amps under their rated capacity. Waiting for an argument, I just stood there silent. The tire and lube manager says 'Well, if they don't start the truck, ya need some new ones!'. Also, I never removed the purchase receipt from my pocket.

By contrast, I took my last pair of a-zone batts in a few months ago. They were like 2.8yrs old - 3-year free replacement. The manager tells me the pro-rate will give me $40 off new batts. WTF? They are 3yr free replacement, right?? Yes, but you purchased them almost 6yrs ago. And I exchanged them 2.8yrs ago dickweed... He says, exactly - the 3yr warranty is from 'purchase date'............

There is a way around this, but dickweed didn't tell me. If you 'exchange' batts or ANYTHING that has a limited warranty at these places - have them REFUND your money, then BUY the item again.

Jordan has limited time to wrench after school and he is with his Mom this weekend. We WILL be working on it this week though, since he wants to take it to Fla after Christmas. The place we stay down there is 26 acres of 'go-cart heaven' and there are miles of trails through the sugar sand adjacent to the property.

 

Almost done. Here's a sequence of pics of the next steps:


















This is a little SSJ exclusive tip. Ever cut yourself on the fan shroud and fan when changing a belt or like I did recently - turning the engine over by hand? I took a chunk of hide off the back of a finger when the engine rotated. Well, ya don't have to get a My Little Pony bandaid and a kiss from Mommy like I did. Take a sanding sponge and round off the edges of the fan shroud and the fan.

Before:


After: