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Looking at doing rear u joints but wondering how much play there should or should t be in the slip joint. Mine has just ever so slight play in it rotating but not when trying to push each side in opposite directions. I have a very slight vibration at 45 mph and figured why not start with u joints after 230k. Didn’t want to keep the truck in the shop for another day while they chased the vibration.
OK call me stupid. They show the complete drive line for my truck at just over $500. Shop up here said it would take that to fix the small vibration. When you order these are they completely balanced and ready to install or do they need to be balanced for the particular truck?
These trucks had their driveshafts balanced independently.
My 2003 Lincoln LS had the driveshaft balanced in the vehicle, and what a PITA that is. The friggin nuts are different weights as they were the balancing medium.
OK call me stupid. They show the complete drive line for my truck at just over $500. Shop up here said it would take that to fix the small vibration. When you order these are they completely balanced and ready to install or do they need to be balanced for the particular truck?
Your best bet would be to give them a call. They do ship parts.
Thanks for the recommendation. I ordered a complete assembly for close to what they wanted up here just to look at balancing mine. They said it's balanced and ready to install.
It may be due to being in Alaska. We have an excellent local driveline shop that has been here for decades, The prices for a replacement driveshaft are about the same. It was decades ago that I had them rebalance a shaft for one of our Class 6 trucks at the test facility, so it would be unrelatable to current prices. I think Bill a few years back had them do some work, but Bill doesn't pop in often anymore.
Looking at doing rear u joints but wondering how much play there should or should t be in the slip joint. Mine has just ever so slight play in it rotating but not when trying to push each side in opposite directions. I have a very slight vibration at 45 mph and figured why not start with u joints after 230k. Didn’t want to keep the truck in the shop for another day while they chased the vibration.
Just out of curiosity, have you considered the carrier bearing? Also, a zerk in the slip joint can cause more headaches than it's worth. The best grease is the blue stuff from Ford. The red stuff doesn't stay long at all.
Mine did the same thing. The shop wanted like 600. for a new one. I re greased mine and that fixed it.
^^^ Very common problem and a few comments:
a) Price quoted the OP by that shop is a TOTAL GOUGE
b) Typically it's just a lubrication issue. First, index main driveline components prior to removal, then remove and discard the old slip yoke boot and clamps, grease thoroughly, then install new slip yoke boot and clamps.
c) Makes absolutely no sense replacing large component assemblies when lube often fixes the issue.
Just out of curiosity, have you considered the carrier bearing? Also, a zerk in the slip joint can cause more headaches than it's worth. The best grease is the blue stuff from Ford. The red stuff doesn't stay long at all.
Already replaced the carrier bearing. Thought it might be the source of the whining noise and it did need replaced but I had a pinion bearing failing. Had that diff rebuilt and the shop said there was still a slight vibration from the driveline. I was going to just replace the u joints and grease the slip joint to see if that fixed it but rather than chasing it down if that didn’t fix it I figured why not get all new and balanced assembly. Probably wasted money but I have a long trip coming up soon and no time to be messing with it.
Just out of curiosity, have you considered the carrier bearing? Also, a zerk in the slip joint can cause more headaches than it's worth. The best grease is the blue stuff from Ford. The red stuff doesn't stay long at all.
Motorcraft Part # XG-8 PTFE (Teflon) grease in a 3 oz tube. IIRC, the 1 lb can part # is D2AZ-19590-A.
