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I do driveshaft for a living grease the slip and have new joints installed and balance it , as long as the stub is not down to the steel your good to go.
I do driveshaft for a living grease the slip and have new joints installed and balance it , as long as the stub is not down to the steel your good to go.
The balancing part is why I just bought a new assembly. Shop wanted too much for that and the only two shops that do it are 60 miles away.
Can I use just a good chassis grease for the slip joint or do you recommend the ford product.
Basically, it's just unnecessary; over greasing can be as bad as under greasing (not to mention making a huge mess on the bottom of your truck) AND getting the proper lube (the blue teflon grease) might not even be possible in a tube. Also, the balance changes every time you grease, and it doesn't take much.
Is it a PIA to pull and grease the drive shaft occassionally??? Hell yes it is, but it's worth it and just doesn't have to be done that often. Besides the trials I went through with several different types of grease that lasted as long as a popcorn fart in a hurricane, I've only had to apply the blue stuff 3 times in 300K, and that's with a few trips down the drag strip, a good bit of cross country moving towing a trailer, and wading through the swamp on a regular basis.
Adding a zerk to a shaft alters the balance, so you'd have to add two 180º apart. Unless you are pumping the cavity full of grease, all the splines are not going to get the lube. Will it migrate, yes, but what is the timeframe. And since the cavity is full of grease, when the splines move deep you are going to get a expulsion of grease due to the compression. Then all the splines will be lubed but so will the bottom of your truck.
The driveshaft spline grease designed for this application works in conjunction with the coating on the splines. Not developed by Ford, but by Dana/Spicer. As Tim said, its typically a 100k lube event.
what you do is grease the slip and the rubber boot put some grease in the big end where it attaches to the slip so it will suck grease in after compression back to normal , besides that if you do a lot of water running use water proof grease or marine grease
These trucks had their driveshafts balanced independently.
My 2003 Lincoln LS had the driveshaft balanced in the vehicle, and what a PITA that is. The friggin nuts are different weights as they were the balancing medium.
Putting the new drive shaft in tomorrow. Since they are balanced independently I don’t need to worry about orientation correct? Wouldn’t this hold true for removing and reinstalling also?
It should come as one assembly, aligned in place. If they separated at the slip yoke for shipping, then it should have alignment marks.
Since it's all-new, I would take some good holding paint and just put a few 1/4" dots by its yokes and slip joints so in the future if you have to take it apart the timing marks are there.
The reason I had to get a new driveshaft for one of our test trucks was an employee (who didn't make it to the end of the facilities time) decided to mark the driveshaft when removing it with an always present chisel mark that would never fade away. It took a few months but that stress riser eventually propagated into a full crack across one yoke. The truck had a driveshaft retaining loop, but with it flailing around you could not just weld in a new yoke. I inherited him, not hired. Only 1 of the 8 inherited lasted full term.