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Ok what is the best delete kit? do I need to reprogram the pcm ?thanks
Can't answer the first question, but the second one depends. The earlier 03 and 04 trucks can be delete without the CEL 05 is hit and miss and.06 and 07 will light the CEL. They all will throw codes. And tuners aren't doing delete tunes anymore.
Deleting can also affect proper cooling function. Probably the simplest is to flush the cooling system, install this https://www.ficmrepair.com/index.cfm...rod/prd298.htm and then service the cooling system with an EC-1 coolant like this https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SCA550024730 . BTW, I have the current stock Ford EGR and oil cooler and they have worked fine for 38K so far...i changed them because the EGR cooler was so cloged with yuck It was simpler to install new, the original from 2005 units never failed. Good Luck, Russ
When I do my head gaskets I will be removing the EGR delete and putting a BPD cooler back in.
I don't trust the clowns that run this state to not go California on us. My quick fix is to never update
my SCT tuner so that all my tunes are good and I can turn the bugger off and if needed for inspections
just turn it back on and get looked at.
BPD for the EGR cooler and Ford for the oil cooler with Ford gaskets.
ok I'm going to replace the cooler for a stainless type ....also I will inspect the turbo seals etc , change the oil cooler also ....is anything else I can do ? Im also thinking to replace the injector seals and the oil pipes (I don't remember the name)....the truck has 100k miles ....thanks
For those of us that must deal with emissions inspections the BPD EGR cooler can work well. Mine was installed at 150K and now has 50K on it and I still have 3-6 degree deltas with 5-8 degree deltas pulling 3000 lbs trailer, with 3300lb. slide in camper in the bed, up steep 6 percent hills (not pushing too hard, only 45-55 mph). This was last weekend with oil temps staying 220-225 degrees while outside was a 100 degree day. Stock can work well if you pay attention to things and don't drive like a maniac - but I'm an old guy with nothing to prove! Still on the fence with ELC coolant, but will probably make the change eventually.
If you are set on replacing the oil cooler be sure to do all the flushing of the coolant system BEFORE you put the new one in -- no sense blowing old crud into a new cooler. Going that deep I would also check for an updated STC fitting on the HPOP. Also check the stand pipes and the dummy plugs for updated versions. If they have 10mm allen sockets replace them with new from Ford. Check the IPR for broken screen. Put new valve cover gaskets on, they are not expensive. Be sure to tape over your intake openings (if you get that far) to prevent loose stuff from falling inside - replacing pistons and connector rods is no fun - ask me how I know! Get a socket that fits the IPR valve from internet. Glow plug boot puller is handy. Keep the batteries charged up and in excellent condition or you will pay a high price for neglect.
I think pulling injectors for no reason is opening up for problems where there may be none - see Diesel Tech Ron's videos for his advice. I run additives that some say are snake oil. I tend to use things that prove themselves, like Archoil 9100 and the Ford Cetane enhancer -- I believe they have kept my injectors working well and they are quiet. Starts in the dead of our Idaho winter like it is warm outside. My 6.0 is the best sounding diesel in my group of friends. You can just about eat off of my EGR valve after 30K and I don't blow black smoke. There are lots of opinions here, pick what makes sense to you.
Sorry for the delay in responce I have the IPR delete and have been fortunate that i have no leaks several folks have.
If memory server me it depends on the year of your truck if it will set a CEL for low egr flow i thought early 6.0 did not set the light.
Also others have stated it will effect cooling fan opperation it will not if you leave EGR valve in place and connected. Mine is.
You might give Anthony @ Super Duty svs a call, He recently serviced my truck (sticking unison ring & broken crossover pipe) I ask him to check my IPR and mine was not leaking but he should be able to give you another option..
I was considering the best delete options for my build and went with a 'welded' EGR. (Mine isn't welded shut as much as having machined 'pucks' welded in place.)
I chose this option because it gives the designed support between the Y-Pipe and the Intake Manifold. It mates up nicely now.
I was considering the best delete options for my build and went with a 'welded' EGR. (Mine isn't welded shut as much as having machined 'pucks' welded in place.)
I chose this option because it gives the designed support between the Y-Pipe and the Intake Manifold. It mates up nicely now.
It's part of a TamerX kit designed to equalize fuel pressure between the heads but mainly as a 'place holder' for a possible regulated return system in the future.
Walk me through that logic. Never heard anyone say that in all the years of researching 6.0’s. How can hot exhaust that needs to be cooled be better than fresh air?
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