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Blower motor doesn't work

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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 01:53 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by bismic
BN/OG is power from the blower motor relay (fed by 40A fuse 2)
OG/BLK wire is from the Blower Motor speed controller.

The speed controller (for systems with EATC) is part # 6C3Z-19E624-AA
Thanks Mark.
Is this on the trans tunnel inside the truck?



 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 02:03 PM
  #17  
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Just for my understanding: the volts are properly regulated, measured but without load! Could it be that the regulation does not work under load?
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 02:26 PM
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Yeah, that's what I was getting at. If there is resistance in the circuit, volts look fine with a voltmeter, but with a load, the voltage can drop. You have speed controller, which adds another variable.

And the blower is the biggest single load in our trucks after the starter and glow plugs.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
Mark, G104 is the only ground point shown in the manuals between power sources (battery and alternator). The other two braided wires (12ga) are not shown, and are called out as bonding cables, but are never noted in the diagrams. Which makes people believe they are inactive. They are not. They add a good amount fo the current flow, and are bi-directional depending on starting vs running.

Remember, I'm an electron flow guy, not a current flow guy. When people are trained in current flow, they overlook the negative side connections. Going by the manual diagrams only, this is missed.

By the diagrams, positive flow goes from the positive battery post to the CJB by a 4ga cable. By the diagrams, negative flow goes through the 8ga negative battery post connection to the inner fender. That does not add up and restricts (8ga resistance) the voltage through the 8ga cable. 8ga + 12ga + 12ga = 4ga.
Attached is the 2006 diagram for grounds I was referring to.

Also attached is the diagram for the EATC module and the speed controller
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 02:56 PM
  #20  
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I have a multimeter and a forceps multimeter (don´t know correct word) here. But I am missing the corresponding sharp needles to get through the cable insulation. I will try to buy needles and put them through the insulation so I can read the actual volts. On the regulator Mark wrote, there are a lot of thin wires going to the regulator. I would prefer to run the fan provisionally at mid-range all the way home. Maybe I could make something there... In humid weather I can't drive otherwise, because I can't see anything through the windows.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Hartwig
Thanks Mark.
Is this on the trans tunnel inside the truck?

I believe that is it
The resisitor is in the engine well in the non-EATC systems IIRC
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 03:02 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by bismic
Attached is the 2006 diagram for grounds I was referring to.

Also attached is the diagram for the EATC module and the speed controller
thanks Mark. How would you test the controller?
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 03:29 PM
  #23  
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Just to be clear, the variable voltage you saw (4-14) was on the BN/OG wire?
Disconnect connector 1031 (BN/OG wire to motor). Are you getting full voltage on that wire when you turn on EATC?

Also, you did verify the relay in the underhood BJB (303)?
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 03:49 PM
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Mark, that layout is essentially no different than the 2003. G104 is the 8ga connection between the battery and the fender. The 1 of 3 connections between supply and the ground plane (the body tub) that all harness negative side or grounds connect to, with the exception at the tail of the truck.

The body tub is the ground plane. It is supplied by the 8ga cable and the two 12ga bonding cables. From the ground plane, all other electronics are supplied, with the exception of the tail previously noted.

BTW, you drawing notes G102 up by the firewall and the front of the engine. G102 is at the bottom front of the engine block only.

Harwig, you can use a straight pin or sewing kit if the wife is prepared as well as you are. When we would get Mazda test vehicles from their training center, we would find sewing straight pins all over the harnesses.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 03:51 PM
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i have to check this again tomorrow. i am standing here on a campground and its 11.00PM, so I must be quiet.
I have measured 4-14V on the cable OR/BL, depending on how I adjusted the EATC, connector disconnected!
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 03:55 PM
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That should mean that the motor speed controller is working if I understand things correctly. Check voltage from the BN/OG at the motor (but with the blower motor disconnected) and the EATC on.

Edit - This is step N2 (PinPoint test N) in Sean's (much appreciated) attachments below
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 03:57 PM
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This may help if you don't already have the info.
The 412-00-01 has the pinpoint tests in it.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 04:11 PM
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Glad you had the diagnostics for it Sean. I just have the base system.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic
That should mean that the motor speed controller is working if I understand things correctly. Check voltage from the BN/OG at the motor (but with the blower motor disconnected) and the EATC on. Edit - This is step N2 (PinPoint test N) in Sean's (much appreciated) attachments
for my understanding: when the blower motor gets power (4-14V) from the speed controller OG/BK, from where he gets ground?
 
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Old Aug 16, 2020 | 04:38 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
This may help if you don't already have the info.
The 412-00-01 has the pinpoint tests in it.
thanks Sean, if I can check it all on the side of the road? I can't get any spare parts here in Sweden. I would like best to run the blower motor at medium revs and do it at home in peace and quiet.
I'll try to work it off. Thanks again.
 
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