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I'm getting ready to swap out the spindles on my 72 f100 and have a question. I bought the CPP disc brake spindle kit for the 67-72. It comes with Kingpins and is used on the stock I-beams. It comes with plastic bushings, but the spindles have brass bushings already pressed in. So I don't need to get them reamed, the kingpin goes right in. I am trying to figure out where the little seals (i'm assuming) go. I've watched videos and none of them show these, but they are in the kit. I know the bearing goes on bottom with the part labled top facing up. The shims appear to go on top of the spindle. I don't know where the seals or crush washer or whatever it is called goes. It's the two small round seals at the bottom left of this pic.
I don't care for the plastic bushings kit but the metal bushings should be replaced when using the new pins.
What did the old pins look like? Is there any movement of the new pins in the metal bushings?
If so they should be pressed out and new bushings installed.
But I also hear where you are coming from after doing metal bushings and new pins on my 81 F100 and the shop that was to ream the bushing only reamed each bushing for the pin to fit and not both bushings so the pin would go thru both. That was the only thing I farmed out of my rebuild and it was not done right.
Sorry for the rant,
As for your question, from what I was told they fit at the top.
If you look at the upper bushings they should be pressed in a little farther leaving a gap for that rubber ring to fit in.
Again because mine were not done right there was no gap to install the rings so I left them out.
I also think I installed to many shims as the spindles don't have any movement up or down.
With that and the bushings not reamed right, I had to use a brake hone just to get the bushings to start thru both, mine are to tight and the steering will not return to center.
I did buy a reamer to ream the bushings and maybe one day I will pull it apart to make it right?
If you don't have any movement between the new pins& old bushing then go for it.
If you have that gap at the top bushings use the rings, if not don't worry and just grease more offend, that all I am doing.
That reminds me I need to grease them.
Thats kind of where I figured they went, but wasnt sure. This is a brand new spindle kit. I intend to use the brass bushings that are installed. Not sure why they sent plastic ones also.
Bushings, brass or plastic, is the way kits come.
I have never seen a kit come with out bushings so that is why you got them.
Dave ----
I think the confusion is he has remanufactured spindles with new bushings fitted. One would assume that CPP would buy a king pin kit and use the bushings from said kit in the refurbishment of the spindle. It sounds like CPP probably buys the spindles from a rebuilder and supplies you the spindles AND cheapest kp kit, the one with nylon bushings...
Yes, I bought the 8" brake booster/mc with distribution block. I'm about to do a big renovation to the truck all in one shot. So I haven't started it yet. I'm going to swap the brakes, make new lines, change the bushings out, change the steering box to a BlueTop, and then swapping in a 460 with a 6R80 trans. I should get the motor back from the machine shop next week. I'm still trying to locate one of the tie Rods. The drag link, the adjusting sleeve, and I think the Left inner tie rod are easy, but the Left Outer is not available anywhere.
I just tend to replace everything when I do these builds. I figure it's best to start off all new if I can. Usually it's not too expensive. That one tie rod is stupid though. I'm using the 460 perches off of a 1979 F250 2wd truck that came with the 460 I have. I suppose you can just buy the aftermarket ones, but I already had these. I got the 8" booster/MC off of ebay in the CPP store there. Go to CPP and do a search there's numerous ones, like all black, an all aluminum one, etc. The disc/drum one will work for 4 wheel disc too. As for the brake lines I'm going to make my own. With the kit it puts the distribution block right below the master cylinder, so I'm not sure any pre bent lines are going to work anyway. With my last build I bought a master flare kit so I gotta justify using that. I haven't really figured out the transmount crossmember yet, but I ordered a new trans mount from Summit for the 6R80. Worst case I'll use some 1.5x1.5 square tubing and make one like I did for my 1979.
This is a good FTE thread on the subject that might be helpful. An FTE member who does really good work called Ultraranger posted some pics of his front end job.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
