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Ok, just for ****s -n- giggles...GP swollen electrode broke off, waiting on special tool to remove it (I hope)..was wondering...if it doesn't come out, and have to remove head to get at it..has anyone buttoned up the engine and started it to blow out the electrode? Remember...just for ****s -n- giggles...really want to avoid removing head...do not want to see what is going on in there....do not want to spend more $$$$$ than I already have...6.9idi...
Ja, R+R heads only a couple more hours labor...my problem is that once the heads are off...what will I find there... So nasty that I will have to rebuild them? And the rest of the engine...it could be a case of the deeper I dig, the more chit I find to spend money on... Might take the risk...runs ok, minimal amount of grey and black smoke.. Throw some head gaskets on and call it a day... Oh, on why the GP swelled and broke....PO installed AC Delcos... I have Beru for new GPs...
Runs great , I'm not suggesting anything but theoretically the piston is stronger than the electrode that already broke once if one were to cause them two to clash I put my money on the piston putting the electrode through the hole if anyone tries this post a vid xD
IF the electrode is still seated in the hole ... you could sure spray it with some WD-40 and place a folded up blanket ove the offending side and crank her over.
it's worth a Shot.
IF it is broken up and in the Pre-Cup you ain't gonna blow it out via the glow plug hole.
I've heard people getting them out that way - at the moment I have one glow plug that is broken at the top of the electrode and firmly lodged in the head (was that way when I bought it, previous owner was upfront and I live down south so I was okay knowing I'd possibly be running on seven).
I change mine yearly whether they need it or not ... probably an unnecessary action, but after pulling the heads on my old '84 due to multiple broken ones (my first truck, bought it when I was 19 and didn't know how bad an ether starting truck really was) and winding up deciding to do a total head rebuild "since they were off" ... I'm trying to avoid that mess. And of course using motorcraft glow plugs only is very important.
So I try every time I'm pulling plugs to blow that chunk of eletrode out on my current truck ('94 body with an '89 7.3). No luck yet. But yea, if its in once piece I don't see how it could hurt anything to try.
what I mean by "One piece" is that it is still in the place where it should be... not broken off and in the PreCup ... if it is loose in the Precup I doubt you can blow it out.
You can get a bit of access to the GP if you remove the injector ...but very limited... at least you can spray it with WD-40 with the injector removed.... so that is a Plus sometimes as you won't get spray down the threads......
you maybe get the idea from this primitive image... I have better images but this was just a duckduckgo search for just a quick response.............
BTW I've had AC in my truck for over 10 years now .... without a Failure....I use Manual and I use 12 Volt Plugs... I do pull them every few years to inspect them.
BUT IF you are using the OEM controller use only the proper Motorcraft plugs.
I never hit the plugs for more than 3 seconds before cranking, unless outside temps are below freezing then I may hit them 2 times.
I'm just really waiting for one to fail so I can put this 24 Volt set I have in their place.
I wouldn't be afraid to crank it up and even stand on it just to see if it would dislodge itself, worth a shot vs pulling the heads.
Several of the Pistons in my 85 have glow plugs tips hammered into them. It regularly sees 15+ psi of boost and still runs fine, probably not the best, but these old rigs are hard to kill.
It now has deleted glow plugs and is ether started on a daily basis with no issues so far...
I know the motor has seen better days, still passed a compression test even though it doesn't have any crosshatch left in the cylinders, gets regularly "well used" it doesn't seem to complain any. The idi is just the most loyal platform I've ever seen, and what they can do N/A is better than any other motor could do without a turbo as far as the light truck world is concerned.
It's turbo now, and I'll probably run it til it uses oil quicker than I can put it in it. I have a motor on standby so it doesn't worry me.
My recent 7.3 purchase starts on a dime without glow plugs, has plenty of power without a turbo, largely due to 4.10 gears/manual trans and stock sized tires. It has all new motorcraft plugs, I've just yet to hook them up and set it up for manual glow plugs..when winter comes I'll get on it.
I wouldn't be afraid to crank it up and even stand on it just to see if it would dislodge itself, worth a shot vs pulling the heads.
Several of the Pistons in my 85 have glow plugs tips hammered into them. It regularly sees 15+ psi of boost and still runs fine, probably not the best, but these old rigs are hard to kill.
It now has deleted glow plugs and is ether started on a daily basis with no issues so far...
I know the motor has seen better days, still passed a compression test even though it doesn't have any crosshatch left in the cylinders, gets regularly "well used" it doesn't seem to complain any. The idi is just the most loyal platform I've ever seen, and what they can do N/A is better than any other motor could do without a turbo as far as the light truck world is concerned.
It's turbo now, and I'll probably run it til it uses oil quicker than I can put it in it. I have a motor on standby so it doesn't worry me.
My recent 7.3 purchase starts on a dime without glow plugs, has plenty of power without a turbo, largely due to 4.10 gears/manual trans and stock sized tires. It has all new motorcraft plugs, I've just yet to hook them up and set it up for manual glow plugs..when winter comes I'll get on it.
FORD never gave us a True spec on Compression anyway they did Spec BlowBy however.... my old 6.9's used to start fine with no GP but 7.3 always needed a little bit of glow... I never even had the GP hooked up on my 83 6.9... and it pissed me off that I needed at least 3 seconds of glow on my 93 7.3.... sure it will start if you crank it long enough without Glow... but not like the old 83 6.9 that would bust right off.
I've been playing with an AR turbo that can deliver 8psi boost with a BLDC motor using 96 volts
this motor has been rewound with custom winding and can hit 20K RPM possibly higher but my controller starts crapping out around 24K.
but theoretically the piston is stronger than the electrode that already broke once 
if one were to cause them two to clash I put my money on the piston putting the electrode through the hole 
if anyone tries this post a vid xD
they did Spec BlowBy however.... my old 6.9's used to start fine with no GP but 7.3 always needed a little bit of glow... I never even had the GP hooked up on my 83 6.9... and it pissed me off that I needed at least 3 seconds of glow on my 93 7.3.... sure it will start if you crank it long enough without Glow... but not like the old 83 6.9 that would bust right off.
