Driveshaft vibration
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2019
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Driveshaft vibration
I am pretty sure I have some sort of driveshaft vibration. Its always had a slight vibration at 70 mph which I attributed to unevenly wore tires due to bad shocks when I bought it. But other day I pulled the rear part of the driveshaft apart to change a bad u joint and did not mark the orientation of the shift because I thought I recalled that the last time I had it apart it was splined in such a way that it only went on one way. I was going to take it apart later and look at it closer and grease the slip yoke since I forgot to do that the other day- but is there anyway to find out how to align the splines to where they were? I also was going to take a wire wheel to the driveshaft and clean off the remnants of the undercoating that was done 20 years ago in case that might be throwing it off balance.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 418
Likes: 4
From: Tacoma, WA
I am pretty sure I have some sort of driveshaft vibration. Its always had a slight vibration at 70 mph which I attributed to unevenly wore tires due to bad shocks when I bought it. But other day I pulled the rear part of the driveshaft apart to change a bad u joint and did not mark the orientation of the shift because I thought I recalled that the last time I had it apart it was splined in such a way that it only went on one way. I was going to take it apart later and look at it closer and grease the slip yoke since I forgot to do that the other day- but is there anyway to find out how to align the splines to where they were? I also was going to take a wire wheel to the driveshaft and clean off the remnants of the undercoating that was done 20 years ago in case that might be throwing it off balance.
If you have a double-cardan drive shaft, then it doesn't matter how you put it back on. If you do have a double-cardan, you should check the two u-joints and inside there is a mini ball socket that can go bad. Yes, grease the slip yoke!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 182
As long as all the caps are properly aligned along the entirety of the shaft, you should be in phase.
So, front flange with the cap facing up (vertical), rear flange with cap facing up, driveshaft end (rear at pinion) with cap facing up, then front shaft end cap facing left/right (horizontal), and double cardan caps facing left/right. Then if you have all that put together, then the slip joint needs to make sure that the flanges on either end are in alignment.
So, front flange with the cap facing up (vertical), rear flange with cap facing up, driveshaft end (rear at pinion) with cap facing up, then front shaft end cap facing left/right (horizontal), and double cardan caps facing left/right. Then if you have all that put together, then the slip joint needs to make sure that the flanges on either end are in alignment.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 200
Likes: 8
From: Greenfield,In
I had a Driveshaft Vibration when my current 2003 Exc XLT 4X4 V-10 was New. I Tipped the Rear Axle (down in front) with a 1/8" thick by 1/2" wide x 2"+/- long shim at the rear of the Springs. This Shim, installed between the Spring and Spring Pad, corrected the Rear U-joint Angle. Vibration gone.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2019
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I was able to take it put the other night and wire wheeled the left over undercoating and rust and lubed up the slip joint. The phase of the driveshaft actually looked ok, might have been off one tooth but it was hard to tell. The cv joints looked original but still felt ok. The vibration was not constant but rather seemed to be different depending on the road. Unfortunately the roads were kinda crappy back roads and lots of deer so its pretty dicey holding 70 for too long. Have a drive planned for Friday on the interstate so hopefully that will help. I do have a 2 degree shim in the back along with procomp 22415 springs with no blocks. The vibration was present before the lift springs and I guess depending on how much I think about it it doesn't seem any different. The rear axle was also swapped out so I can nore than likely rule out differential bearings. The change based on road makes me feel like tires.
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 402
Likes: 1
From: Burlington, Maine
I was able to take it put the other night and wire wheeled the left over undercoating and rust and lubed up the slip joint. The phase of the driveshaft actually looked ok, might have been off one tooth but it was hard to tell. The cv joints looked original but still felt ok. The vibration was not constant but rather seemed to be different depending on the road. Unfortunately the roads were kinda crappy back roads and lots of deer so its pretty dicey holding 70 for too long. Have a drive planned for Friday on the interstate so hopefully that will help. I do have a 2 degree shim in the back along with procomp 22415 springs with no blocks. The vibration was present before the lift springs and I guess depending on how much I think about it it doesn't seem any different. The rear axle was also swapped out so I can nore than likely rule out differential bearings. The change based on road makes me feel like tires.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 164
You can check out my year long drive line vibration mouse hunt here. In short, $640 drive shaft from Tom Wood. Not to mention ALL of the other stuff I did in the process (some needed, some not).
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 402
Likes: 1
From: Burlington, Maine
Maybe, but not necessarily. Hauling the trailer added weight and more drive line movement (pinion angle change) when taking off and driving, causing the slip yoke to move as well. Reducing the air pressure in the tires can have a similar effect, though far less pronounced, as more torque may be used to get the truck moving due to the resistance caused by less air - this is just a theory on my part. I could be wrong. The one thing I've noticed about tire induced vibration (not caused by an out of balance situation) is, at least in my experience, tire issues don't seem to be as affected by loads like what I was dealing with, and are seem to be more consistent regarding speeds.
When I made my trip to Maine in 2016, just the load from all the kids and camping gear made an almost 10mph change in the upper vibration range. As I used gas, the vibration range would change as well, causing the vibration to start coming on in lower speeds.
I guess my point is, where drive line vibrations are concerned, don't discount anything. I hope it takes less time for you to find your gremlin than it did me...
When I made my trip to Maine in 2016, just the load from all the kids and camping gear made an almost 10mph change in the upper vibration range. As I used gas, the vibration range would change as well, causing the vibration to start coming on in lower speeds.
I guess my point is, where drive line vibrations are concerned, don't discount anything. I hope it takes less time for you to find your gremlin than it did me...
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2019
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I just took it out with no rear driveshaft and the vibration was not present. So something with the rear driveshaft then most likely?
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 402
Likes: 1
From: Burlington, Maine
In all likelihood, or possibly a combination with something in the rear end and the driveshaft. When you had the drive shaft out, did you slide the slip yoke up and down and check for play in it? Using a dial indicator, I remember there being a good bit of play at one point. I'm thinking it was about a 1/16 to an 1/8 of an inch.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2019
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I lubed the slip joint a day or so ago and it felt tight to me and moved easily after greasing it. It was sticky before. I am considering dropping it off at a driveline shop tomorrow and see if they can look it over and spin it up and check it out.