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Picked it up and put it back in. The vibration is still there. It almost seemed a little better but it was hard to tell. Dang. The pinion bearings are tight and smooth no play. Could it be the 2 degree shim I put on the leaf springs? I'm tempted to take them out, but when it is sitting level on my shop floor the pinion to driveshaft looks lined up.
Using the inclinometer app on my phone and sitting my phone on top of the casting that the vss sits between. I was at 9 degrees. I don't know if this was the correct place to try to measure it from but it is a starting point. What should this be?
You'll want the pinion angle to be slightly less (1 or 2 degrees) than the driveshaft angle.
So then I'll need to pop the driveshaft off the pinion flange and try to get a measurement from that. My driveshaft angle was 10 degrees, so I would want to see something in the 8-9 degrees then right?
So then I'll need to pop the driveshaft off the pinion flange and try to get a measurement from that. My driveshaft angle was 10 degrees, so I would want to see something in the 8-9 degrees then right?
Roughly speaking, yes. Depending on the condition of your springs. If they're weak like mine were, wrapping well over an inch, that should be addressed as well. It all works together. If the springs & bushings are fine and everything else is solid, then adjusting the pinion angle to a couple degrees less than the driveshaft angle should be the next step. That allows for the pinion to move up inline with the driveshaft during normal operation. Some other guys on here might chime in as well, with regards to towing or towing heavy, and the impact on the desired pinion angle. I rarely tow anything, and if I do, it's short distances, so I kept mine right at 2 degrees down.
The springs and shocks are all new. Less than 100 miles on them procomp 22210 front and 22415 rear. I'll pop the driveshaft off in the morning and see where I'm at.
If you haven't already wire brush the flanges to make sure they're as smooth as possible. Usually isn't an issue, but better safe than sorry.
I you haven't already, you may want to get a dial indicator and check the runout of the diff yoke with and without the driveshaft attached, as well as to check any up and down movement at each end.
So it appears after taking the driveshaft off the pinion angle is 9 degrees. And the driveshaft angle is 9 degrees. I noticed one of the buttons on my phone was keeping it from being flat on the driveshaft. So according to this then the shims would need to come out, correct?
So it appears after taking the driveshaft off the pinion angle is 9 degrees. And the driveshaft angle is 9 degrees. I noticed one of the buttons on my phone was keeping it from being flat on the driveshaft. So according to this then the shims would need to come out, correct?
Yes, because if the pinion is rotating up as you drive, with your current configuration, you're going past the driveshaft center line. That 2* shim has you perfectly aligned at a stand-still. You want to target a 1 - 3* difference to allow for the pinion angle changing.
Well taking the shims out was the ticket. Thanks for the help. Wouldn't have thought 2 degrees would make that big of difference.
Glad you got it resolved. Diagnosing drive line vibrations sucks because of how many different areas they can originate from. Finding and fixing them is much like how Johnny Cash build his Caddy - One Piece at a Time.
Well its back. Had probably 50 miles on it with no vibrations. I don't get how it can be completely gone like that and come back. I checked the driveshaft bolts and they were all tight. I also just for kicks checked the transfer case output shaft flange bolt and that was tight also-although I think I felt some play in that when I took the driveshaft off to check the flange bolt.
Well its back. Had probably 50 miles on it with no vibrations. I don't get how it can be completely gone like that and come back. I checked the driveshaft bolts and they were all tight. I also just for kicks checked the transfer case output shaft flange bolt and that was tight also-although I think I felt some play in that when I took the driveshaft off to check the flange bolt.
Chock the front tires and put the rear on jack stands. Bring it up to speed and see if you still have the vibration with no load on the rear end.
If you have a dial indicator and magnetic base, check the runout at both the transfer case and pinion yokes, and check for deflection at the slip yoke. If you don't have those, Harbor Freight has them fairly cheap.
I think at this point I am going to try to get it in somewhere that specializes in transfer cases and rear ends this next week. All the driveshaft u joints are new. Driveshaft was balanced. Rear wheel bearings are new. So that leaves differential bearings or something in the transfer case.
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