Breakaway System Draw?
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,711
Likes: 12,849
From: Wyoming
Breakaway System Draw?
How many amps will the trailer's breakaway system draw?
This question came up on the DIYSolarForum.com site. The context of the question is if there is going to be a difference - at the brakes - between a LiFePO4 and Sealed Lead Acid battery bank. Assuming both battery banks are rated for the same amp hours - call it 100 amp hours - the LiFePO4 battery bank is capable of a much higher discharge rate than the Sealed Lead Acid battery.
My thought is that the battery type doesn't matter. The breakaway system is designed to draw only so many amps. It's not going to be a full-on short circuit event. Locking up the brakes isn't what we want to happen, especially if this is a horse trailer. Unfortunately, I can't find a definitive answer.
This question came up on the DIYSolarForum.com site. The context of the question is if there is going to be a difference - at the brakes - between a LiFePO4 and Sealed Lead Acid battery bank. Assuming both battery banks are rated for the same amp hours - call it 100 amp hours - the LiFePO4 battery bank is capable of a much higher discharge rate than the Sealed Lead Acid battery.
My thought is that the battery type doesn't matter. The breakaway system is designed to draw only so many amps. It's not going to be a full-on short circuit event. Locking up the brakes isn't what we want to happen, especially if this is a horse trailer. Unfortunately, I can't find a definitive answer.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
How many amps will the trailer's breakaway system draw?
This question came up on the DIYSolarForum.com site. The context of the question is if there is going to be a difference - at the brakes - between a LiFePO4 and Sealed Lead Acid battery bank. Assuming both battery banks are rated for the same amp hours - call it 100 amp hours - the LiFePO4 battery bank is capable of a much higher discharge rate than the Sealed Lead Acid battery.
My thought is that the battery type doesn't matter. The breakaway system is designed to draw only so many amps. It's not going to be a full-on short circuit event. Locking up the brakes isn't what we want to happen, especially if this is a horse trailer. Unfortunately, I can't find a definitive answer.
This question came up on the DIYSolarForum.com site. The context of the question is if there is going to be a difference - at the brakes - between a LiFePO4 and Sealed Lead Acid battery bank. Assuming both battery banks are rated for the same amp hours - call it 100 amp hours - the LiFePO4 battery bank is capable of a much higher discharge rate than the Sealed Lead Acid battery.
My thought is that the battery type doesn't matter. The breakaway system is designed to draw only so many amps. It's not going to be a full-on short circuit event. Locking up the brakes isn't what we want to happen, especially if this is a horse trailer. Unfortunately, I can't find a definitive answer.
Your summation is correct. I have measured RV brake amp draw on more than one occasion and, as you might expect, it works out to about 3 amps per wheel or 12 amps for most trailers give or take. There is some variation in magnets, wiring, etc. but the brakes only draw their design rating.
Steve
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,711
Likes: 12,849
From: Wyoming
The breakaway system shouldn't be locking up the brakes, right? I did have the breakaway plug get pulled while I was at highway speed. I definitely felt a tug from the trailer, but the trailer brakes certainly didn't lock up. I think my trailer brakes are in good shape. Not brand new, but I also don't have to set my factory brake controller on a high setting to get the trailer brakes to work like they should.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
Jim,
Whether they lock pulls in a lot of variables. At the very least, the braking is not subtle so if the trailer breaks away, it will pretty much stop dead. When towing the drag on the truck is not subtle and if it happens on gravel, you will find yourself dragging the trailer.
Steve
Whether they lock pulls in a lot of variables. At the very least, the braking is not subtle so if the trailer breaks away, it will pretty much stop dead. When towing the drag on the truck is not subtle and if it happens on gravel, you will find yourself dragging the trailer.
Steve
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,711
Likes: 12,849
From: Wyoming
Thanks Steve. I know it's a hard question to answer and not many people have a situation where the breakaway system gets activated. I wouldn't be arguing the side of "no lockup" if it hadn't happened to me.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
JIm,
What you get into with the "should it or shouldn't it" question is it suggests that all braking systems are the same in terms of size. magnet amp draw, condition of the brakes, charge state of the battery, etc. These are all things that can vary tremendously between campers.
Testing your own system is very simple to do. First of all make sure your trailer battery is fully charged or there abouts i.e. no dead battery tests. Then leaving your seven pin unpinned from your tow vehicle take your clamp meter and put it around either one of the two wires on your break-away switch. Pull the pin and have someone try to pull your camper while you watch your meter. Your driver should feel a great deal or resistance and your meter will show you the amp draw of your magnets. Your meter should be reading close to 12; it could be somewhat more or less, but close. If you meter reading is good, but your trailer braking is poor, adjust your trailer brakes. If the meter reading is too low, focus on the wiring, magnets, etc. Don't forget to put the pin back in the break-away where you are done. In the end, all we really care about is how well our own systems are functioning.
Steve
What you get into with the "should it or shouldn't it" question is it suggests that all braking systems are the same in terms of size. magnet amp draw, condition of the brakes, charge state of the battery, etc. These are all things that can vary tremendously between campers.
Testing your own system is very simple to do. First of all make sure your trailer battery is fully charged or there abouts i.e. no dead battery tests. Then leaving your seven pin unpinned from your tow vehicle take your clamp meter and put it around either one of the two wires on your break-away switch. Pull the pin and have someone try to pull your camper while you watch your meter. Your driver should feel a great deal or resistance and your meter will show you the amp draw of your magnets. Your meter should be reading close to 12; it could be somewhat more or less, but close. If you meter reading is good, but your trailer braking is poor, adjust your trailer brakes. If the meter reading is too low, focus on the wiring, magnets, etc. Don't forget to put the pin back in the break-away where you are done. In the end, all we really care about is how well our own systems are functioning.
Steve
Thread Starter
|
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 19,711
Likes: 12,849
From: Wyoming
JIm,
What you get into with the "should it or shouldn't it" question is it suggests that all braking systems are the same in terms of size. magnet amp draw, condition of the brakes, charge state of the battery, etc. These are all things that can vary tremendously between campers.
Testing your own system is very simple to do. First of all make sure your trailer battery is fully charged or there abouts i.e. no dead battery tests. Then leaving your seven pin unpinned from your tow vehicle take your clamp meter and put it around either one of the two wires on your break-away switch. Pull the pin and have someone try to pull your camper while you watch your meter. Your driver should feel a great deal or resistance and your meter will show you the amp draw of your magnets. Your meter should be reading close to 12; it could be somewhat more or less, but close. If you meter reading is good, but your trailer braking is poor, adjust your trailer brakes. If the meter reading is too low, focus on the wiring, magnets, etc. Don't forget to put the pin back in the break-away where you are done. In the end, all we really care about is how well our own systems are functioning.
Steve
What you get into with the "should it or shouldn't it" question is it suggests that all braking systems are the same in terms of size. magnet amp draw, condition of the brakes, charge state of the battery, etc. These are all things that can vary tremendously between campers.
Testing your own system is very simple to do. First of all make sure your trailer battery is fully charged or there abouts i.e. no dead battery tests. Then leaving your seven pin unpinned from your tow vehicle take your clamp meter and put it around either one of the two wires on your break-away switch. Pull the pin and have someone try to pull your camper while you watch your meter. Your driver should feel a great deal or resistance and your meter will show you the amp draw of your magnets. Your meter should be reading close to 12; it could be somewhat more or less, but close. If you meter reading is good, but your trailer braking is poor, adjust your trailer brakes. If the meter reading is too low, focus on the wiring, magnets, etc. Don't forget to put the pin back in the break-away where you are done. In the end, all we really care about is how well our own systems are functioning.
Steve
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
