I have a bone stock 73' 2 barrel 360 in my F100 and I was wondering what low end torque performance upgrades would be worth it. This truck is a budget build, so I will not be taking the motor out or rebuild it into a 390. The engine still makes decent compression (around 120psi) and has 74k miles on it. I have heard that the 70's model FE engines have detuned valve timing. I have also heard that you need to upgrade exhaust before you upgrade anything else. So my question is if I add a this performance valve timing set, will I have a noticeable performance increase? If not what will I need to do to wake this engine up? Thanks.

 

The biggest problem you have is low compression and a 2v carburator. the exhaust is the same as a 390 4v so that certainly isn't a problem you need to worry about for small upgrades.

You're going to get lots of opinions but mine is if you're on a budget just live with it. no small amount of money is going to return you enough gains to impress yourself.

 

I agree with 440, that you won't see a major gain from just a top end rebuild. However, if it was mine and the bottom end is in good shape, I'd do a few things to it for reliability and driveability. I'd install an Edelbrock dual plane intake manifold & carburetor, headers (preferably long tube), and a mild RV/towing type camshaft and timing set. And I prefer HEI distributors.

 

The FE valve timing was not changed(retarded) like some other engines(400/460). The cam and timing gears are the same for the 73/76 360 and 60's vintage 390 2v engines.

 

I messed around a bit with my Y-Block (another de-tuned, low compression engine by '64.)

A stretched or worn timing chain set will only add to the problem. For diagnostic purposes set the ignition timing (temporarily at least) to the factory spec - this will probably be something like 6° - and connect a mechanic's vacuum gauge. It's important not to "cheat", set the distributor at the factory ignition timing for an accurate test.

At normal idle of 500 to 600, a healthy stock engine will pull 19" to 21" of manifold vacuum at sea level, this is the spec right out of the manual. If it won't, find out why. There are other, different ways of checking for a stretched chain, but these only tell part of the story.

Late or retarded valve timing from any cause will result in a considerably lower manifold vacuum reading, all things being equal. And this means a lot less low end grunt. Ended up using a new timing set with adjustable keyways and "installed" the stock cam with 4° of advance from "straight up".

I don't know what Ford did in '64 with respect to camshaft timing or, even what camshaft is actually in thar, but this brought the manifold vacuum at idle exactly into spec, and a 5 to 10 psi bump in compression. It won't turn an engine into a screamer but every bit helps.

It should also restore cranking compression and nice crisp cold engine starts. If you live at altitude, higher elevations, even more camshaft advance is desirable. One nice thing about factory stock engines, there's plenty of leeway with valve timing before stuff ever starts banging into each other. Use a degree wheel regardless, otherwise the actual valve timing is just a guess.