fft- doesn't ford offer a 393 crate motor? If you could get just a short block, your heads might be usable and the upper intake if you get a wider lower to match the new deck hieght. The cam should swap over as well. The extra displacement with the stuff you already have should give you the lower speed power. DF

 

I agree with DF in using some of your pre-existing parts to enhance another smallblock, but with more cubes(351W). If you are intent on having a s.b. I'd get a 351W, whether it be stock or stroked, you will have at least 45-49 cubic inch advantage not to mention a stroke advantage(MORE TORQUE) as well. Some of the parts you already have can be used, but more effectively.
The cam you have builds power too high for your tastes, install it into the bigger 351 and you automatically bring down the power band because of the displacement difference(500-1000 rpm lower). The rockers, upper intake(maybe), heads and other parts can be re-used as well, which in turn will keep money in your pocket.
For the estimated $7500, I would ditch the small block idea and install a 460/E4OD or C6, I'll out pull, out tow, out accelerate, better reliability and probably get the same if not better mileage with the 460 being stock. Just look at all the money you've already thrown into this truck and you still aren't happy, 40 more cubes probably won't change that. Just remember one thing: There is no replacement for displacement!! A stock 460 will be around ALOT longer and be ALOT more fun to drive than a high comp. stroker motor that has to have premium fuel(or better) just to get around. I hope this helps in any way.

Todd
BB79RANCH

 

If you look at the HP ratings on STOCK motors, the 460 is the weakest sounding, good torque (not sure on it, but its up there) but 225 horses, 210 horses out of the 5.8, and 205 horses out of the 5.0...

DAYWALKER: I know its a speed limiter, I hit mine 8 times driving up to san jose over the summer, maybe its because I have a stick but it didn't shut down the motor, it just bucked like I hit a brick wall and idled down until I was going 90 again...

1995 F-150 XL Reg Cab/Bed
http://members.sounddomain.com/blind
5-star rated F-150 (big stereo)

 

I dont' know why I didn't think of this before, but reading through your original post I didn't catch anything mentioned about a MAF conversion...whoops. All of those mods to get the air in better (K&N gen2, GT-40 heads, upper/lower manifolds/24# injectors) wont do anything unless you have a way for the computer to know what you did! You mentioned a new fuel regulator, is that an adj. unit, so that you could tune the fuel delivery manually? I think I heard of a place in Texas called DYNAJET or similar that will put you on a dyno for an hour for $100 and tweak the fuel system to max output...you might look for a place up there, or just a MAF conversion ($500 at dealership I beleive) and you will have all the power possible

1995 F-150 XL Reg Cab/Bed
http://members.sounddomain.com/blind
5-star rated F-150 (big stereo)

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 07-Jan-01 AT 10:29 PM (EST)[/font][p] Hey KevinT your right about the "factory stock" numbers on being so low. You can't argue the fact that it(460) has more "*****" than a 5.0 or 5.8. OKAY you can have a "RELATIVELY" stock 460/E4OD or C6 and pummel the smallblocks to death with H.P. & Torque.
Todd
BB79RANCH

 

KevinT. Sorry misread your post. I'm at 2,000 rpm in 5th at 60mph.

Anybody who cares.
460-245hp 400ftlbs tq at 2200rpm
351-200hp 310ftlbs tq around 3000rpm
Yeah, I'd say the 460 is a stump puller.


Daywalker
92' F-250 351 4x4 xlt 4.10 5spd sprcab lngbed
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1426655&a=10683799&p=36629681&Sequence=0&re s=high

 

 

I have found an engine rebuild shop 500miles from where I live, he will build me a 351w with 350fp of torque that starts at 2000rpm, with 315hp,and goes up to 425fp of torque,at 45rpm, for $4500 Canadain. What do you guys think?
Thank-you
fastfordtruck

 

Fastford

I think your cheapest 'fix' would be to look into a different cam. I don't know the specs on your cam, but it sounds as though you have too big a cam for your requirements (bigger's not always better). Your cam should match your expected RPM range. I would suggest a cam in the 272degree range (generally 1500-4500 RPM basic range and 2200-2600 cruising RPM).

Check out the cam specs at:
http://www.cranecams.com
or
http://www.compcams.com
also
http://www.harveycrane.com (founder of Crane Cams, has some interesting info)

to see what I mean.

If your really set on a stroker, my suggestion would be a 393 because you can use many of the same parts as your current engine (you will still need to match the cam to your desired RPM range). I currently have a 302, bored 040 over, flat tops and ported windsor heads (69cc), in my 85 F150 with 247 final drive. I plan to have a set of '69 heads(60cc) done up with larger valves and screw in studs (about $500 locally) and replace the cam with a Crane 260 or 266. This will boost my compression and put my power band done where it is useable to me.

My next motor will be a 393 stroker from an '89 block I have sitting out in the woodshed. I'll be doing most of the work myself.

http://oemfordparts.com/ (has a steel 393 crank for about $600US)

Here are some other stroker sites:

http://www.strokerkits.com/
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/stroker.html
http://www.enginekitsonline.com/

Remember, cams basically just shift your torque curve up or down the RPMs. Torque doesn't change much (other than where it occurs) but peak power changes due to where in the RPMs max torque occurs.

Hope this helps

RCC