Let's talk about fan clutches.

I have used a stock fan clutch, the snow plow clutch and the BPD adapter with a 7.3 fan clutch.

It seems like the plow fan clutch cools things down quicker but the truck still gets warm before the fan kicks in and this would be in the PCM programming.

The 7.3 fan clutch seems to make the A/C work better at idle on both max and regular. The 7.3 clutch seems to be engaged more often though. I should source another one and see if it matches the one I have now.

Has anybody talked to the tuners to see if they can be more aggressive with fan clutch engagement in the custom tunes?


This is from another thread:

Interesting.

At 70-75 I am turning 2k RPMs and I run around 224-226 oil temp and the coolant temp was between 214 and 220 depending on hills and when the fan would cycle. This was on i94 between St. Cloud and Valley City, ND so it wasn't totally flat.

I brought my 7.3 fan clutch and the fan clutch tools this weekend and swapped the fan clutch for the ride home and then the coolant temps were between 196 and 202 and oil temps were 206-210 at the highest. I wonder if the fan programming isn't as aggressive with the Gearhead 8K tow tune?

I am also thinking that the 7.3 fan clutch I have is locked up more than it really should be as I can hear it quite a bit unloaded and before the engine warms up. I am on the fence on this one.

Has anybody talked to the tuners about fan clutch tables?

 

Years ago I tried to get Quicktricks to adjust the fan programming on their tune, she said it wouldn't help and tried to sell me her electric fan kit. I have not run her tunes since.

I replaced the original fan clutch with a new motorcraft and saw an immediate improvement. The only time I see higher than normal temps is when stuck in backups on the interstates, as soon as I see the temps get above 210 I switch the ac to max, that kicks the fan to high and the temps come right back down.

 

The AC trick works pretty well, but it seems to get the fan to very high speed. I just feel it that way, but not measure/record scientifically. I had to turn off AC sometimes, just because it was loud. Before my observation, I was a bit confused how someone can even hear their fan running, when they said it's loud.

I don't experience high temperature/fan issue yet. But if I do, I would look into controlling the fan speed more precisely than just grounding the blue wire. Basically, try doing what the engine does, just with a higher speed or custom speed of your choice. Besides I don't have problem with the fan or the temp, I am mighty busy currently though, so I don't see myself doing any of that anytime.

There are currently many options people talked about, including grounded blue wire mod, 7.3 fan mod, electric fan mod, upgraded 3rd party fan mod. Some even talked about tune mod. I think this is another solution. The truck computer will still see the fan speed, and may complain if it's faster than what it should.

 

It's interesting you are seeing that high of temps. My truck is completely stock (head bolts, EGR, latest Ford tunes on PCM and FICM) and I installed a new Ford radiator and non-plow Hayden fan clutch last year. I don't recall seeing temps even touch 200 at freeway speeds for more than a few minutes and the last time I hit anything close to 220 was towing a 15K dump trailer up a pretty steep hill for about 3/4 to a mile at about 55mph.

I don't normally monitor fan speed but might have to add that just to see what it does and when it does it.

 

If your fan is constantly engaged and the coolant temp is under 217 degrees, it's likely the viscous fluid in the fan clutch is leaking. Check your fan blades for sticky goo on them.

Also, and this is crucial when you replace a fan clutch on a 6.0L. BUY ONE FROM AUTOZONE. Motorcraft may warranty your clutch for two years if you have a receipt, but the fact of the matter is that nearly all of the 6.0L fan clutches now are re-manufactured and are supplied to aftermarket as well as OEM manufacturers as "replacement parts" and I have verified this on several occasions. Autozone has a lifetime warranty on this part and you can just bring yours in and swap it out at any location.

This being said, (and this is the crucial part) Ford's new fan clutch box does not have a "storage direction" printed on it. This is CRUCIAL if the part is expected to sit any amount of time. If the clutch is stored on it's side or upside down, the viscous fluid will seep past an internal seal and partially or fully lock the clutch and the condition is irreversible without disassembly. I have purchased three fan clutches (in a row) from Ford that had this problem, just to have them tell me that my truck had a problem. When I discovered (by purchasing an autozone branded unit) the storage procedure, I discovered that the dealership I was going to had stored these clutches sideways on a shelf to save space, as the box didn't tell them otherwise. I also confirmed this procedure with "Horton industries" a re-manufacturer of many fan clutches (and this one).

 

I've heard this before, about the improper storage. I got my Motorcraft clutch shipped to me and really from day one it never seemed right. Like it never locked up over 218°f when pulling 8% grade @ 22k#'s combined like it use to. This is something I was about to look into last year, until u bought the new truck.
I need to get curious one day and experiment with IDS and put it @ 100% duty cycle and see if it locks up. If it don't, I'll try your Autozone clutch..... maybe.

 

My fan clutch locks up at 100% (or maybe near?) every cold start. It usually unlocks after a few minutes. I thought that was a pretty standard thing. Does yours?

 

Mine don't that I can hear. It's been awhile so I'll have to test it out on a cold start.

 

I had that with my 7.3, but not with the 6.0 that I can remember.

 

Both of mine don't do that on a cold start.
2006 F350 LBCC

 

I had AC issues with the 7.3 fan clutch at idle (hot summer days, min. 5 minutes on idle, AC doesn't work). Now I installed the snow plow fan clutch (and IPR radiator)

 

seen this on several trucks.

 

Electronic clutch? Stock or aftermarket?

Here's been my experience:
-Both of my 6.0's with stock electronic clutches did not do this.
-02 F150 5.4 with stock mechanical clutch would not do this.
-89 Mustang 5.0 with Hayden mechanical clutch would do this. Quite annoying. Went to a stock motorcraft clutch and it went away.

 

It's a Hayden 3261 electric clutch. The more I think about it I don't recall the original clutch that was in there doing this. Although the whole reason I replaced it with the Hayden was because it showed 0 FSS but it still worked fine (i.e. it would roar at 100% lock if the engine temps got hot enough).

Also the more I think about it could be the on cold starts it only locks at 100% when the AC compressor is on. I'll have to run an experiment. I recall it would do it in cold weather as well which if it was related to the AC compressor would probably be in defrost on the HVAC.

 

Following. I have a mishimoto 200 thermostat. Love it during winter here in SC. 198-202 reliably. No more 185 temps. I also run GH 8 k on my truck 90+% of the time. My truck is studded, deleted, egr valve in place and plugged in. I get ECT of 210-220 and eot of 220-230 loaded with family and 24ft pontoon. It is more mostly flat around here. Fan just seems lacking. No rhyme or reason when it kicks on for a few moments. The most it is on is cold starts in the summer. It is on for about a minute as pull out the driveway.
Tuned was done years ago. Truck has yet to overheat. AC is COLD! I would be a little hesitant to update my old *** 3015( I think) for fear of getting some of the tuners abilities taken away.