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As all have said it is time for an oil cooler replacement. You might want to do a complete cooling system flush before hand. I did that before the last oil cooler I put in my EX. If you don't know that at the 250F mark on the oil temp you are getting close to melting the plastic nipple that the oil filter slides over. There are plenty of horror stories on that on the Forum!
How many miles on your truck? Is your EGR cooler deleted? If so what are your temp differentials unloaded at 65mph for 30 minutes?
The only two times I saw water temps hit 230 and oil temps hit 250 was a blown heater house and a bad fan clutch! I have replaced everything but the front cover at this point!
My normal spread is 10 degrees! I have noticed that if I use the cruise control and the RPM's stay in the 2000-2500 RPMs, the temps stay in a range that isn't worrisome.
With the cruise on towing an 8k trailer, with a 65 hp tow tune, 95 degrees and 70% humidity today my average water temp was 200 and oil temp was 218. I pulled a decent grade for 5 miles today and my temps didn't move more , IIRC i was 218 water and 230 on oil. After flattening out and back at 2k rpms the temps dropped back with in a few miles. My temps have crept up over the last 5 years since I replaced the oil cooler. Replacing the oil cooler will be my will be my fall project!
Your coolant temps are only 200 pulling a camper? Wow.
Mine is in the 214-220 range in 90 degree weather towing my travel trailer. How fast do you pull? I am usually between 70 and 75 on the interstate.
I only pull in the 64 to 68 MPH range... travel trailer tires arent designed for more than that. My deltas a few months ago were only 8 to 10°, for some reason they went to the ridiculous side? I will do another backflush on the cooler and am gonna run Ford VC9 for a day, and then drain, flush and refill with distilled water 3 or 4 times and then refill with ELC again. Hopefully I can get this under control without replacing the oil cooler. My truck has just under 270k on the odometer.
This screenshot was from March 14th pulling the same trailer going camping for the weekend, if I am correct(have it written down) outside temp was 52° out. Deltas were good then.
I would not run VC-9 unless you are going to plan on replacing the cooler. It will break all the big flakes free that won't dissolve.
My bad. Its VC1 I have... thought it was VC9, I am wrong! Got home today, deltas are out of this world ridiculous.
Gonna backflush tomorrow morning, CLR it, the backflush again, then run acid in it twice for a day at a time, then flush with distilled 3 or 4 times, then refill with ELC coolant if all goes good. Hoping for the best!
Your coolant temps are only 200 pulling a camper? Wow.
Mine is in the 214-220 range in 90 degree weather towing my travel trailer. How fast do you pull? I am usually between 70 and 75 on the interstate.
On a relatively flat road running 65-70 mph with the TT my coolant temp is 200-205F at 2k RPM's. The oil temp averages around 215-220F. At 3k RPM's coolant averages 215-220F and oill temp is 228-230F.
After I replaced the cooler with a thorough flush, I never saw anything over 210 on the oil temp at 2k RPM's.
The shop I used for the stud job wasn't happy that I didn't want to replace the cooler when they had the engine out. I had him on the phone as I pulled over when the heater hose blew last year! I was asking him if I was going to owe him another $5k for a head gasket job! The temps climbed quick on that one. I saw 230 F on the water and 255F on the oil. I pulled the filter to make sure I didn't melt the stand pipe. I was sweating that I tossed my $ with that over heat..
I too sweated it when I blew a heater hose with my non studded engine. Fortunately no ill effects.
I think I have a reporting error as I see less of a delta towing than I do normal driving. I need to find something to compare settings with the ones the Scan Gauge II is reporting.
On a relatively flat road running 65-70 mph with the TT my coolant temp is 200-205F at 2k RPM's. The oil temp averages around 215-220F. At 3k RPM's coolant averages 215-220F and oill temp is 228-230F.
After I replaced the cooler with a thorough flush, I never saw anything over 210 on the oil temp at 2k RPM's.
The shop I used for the stud job wasn't happy that I didn't want to replace the cooler when they had the engine out. I had him on the phone as I pulled over when the heater hose blew last year! I was asking him if I was going to owe him another $5k for a head gasket job! The temps climbed quick on that one. I saw 230 F on the water and 255F on the oil. I pulled the filter to make sure I didn't melt the stand pipe. I was sweating that I tossed my $ with that over heat..
Interesting.
At 70-75 I am turning 2k RPMs and I run around 224-226 oil temp and the coolant temp was between 214 and 220 depending on hills and when the fan would cycle. This was on i94 between St. Cloud and Valley City, ND so it wasn't totally flat.
I brought my 7.3 fan clutch and the fan clutch tools this weekend and swapped the fan clutch for the ride home and then the coolant temps were between 196 and 202 and oil temps were 206-210 at the highest. I wonder if the fan programming isn't as aggressive with the Gearhead 8K tow tune?
I am also thinking that the 7.3 fan clutch I have is locked up more than it really should be as I can hear it quite a bit unloaded and before the engine warms up. I am on the fence on this one.
Has anybody talked to the tuners about fan clutch tables?
I tried to have a brief conversation with Gearhead. Matt really wasn't wanting to discuss details. I was disappointed in him ............
He said it is possible to re-write the tune to be more aggressive with the fan clutch. He just didn't seem to want to do it. I am not going to twist someone's arm to do something that I would then have to pay him for.
How long ago was that? I haven't heard great things about the latest tunes coming out of there. I think he has one of his employees doing more of the tuning.
I know when I wanted some revisions to my tune it was like pulling teeth and it didn't really change much. I'm pretty happy with where it is at, just would like more boost to clean things up but I think that is a limit of the turbo more than anything.
Maybe 6 months ago. I think the good 'ol days of custom tuning the 6.0L are pretty much gone. Now it is just like any other business - pull stuff off the shelf and sell it.
There is a way to get around the programming, I mentioned this in some thread based on what is done on Jeeps to correct cooling issues there. With the Jeeps though, you set up an electric fan. For us, we need to ground the fan.
We can set up a thermal switch to close at a given coolant temp. This does take some work of parts available.
For the Jeep guys, they install an adaptor into hoses, radiator, or heater. These are available in different diameters.
Many of the temperature sensors are a larger size, coming off European vehicles and get attached to the radiator itself, or a heater tee in some vehicles where you search for salvage. The larger hose adaptors needed to be drilled and tapped if you are using a larger 18mm or 22mm switch. The switches usually are dual contacts, a lower and higher setpoint. You figure out the sensor and tab you want to use for a specific temp. The switch can provide the ground circuit to turn on our fans, or you can use a relay to ground the fan, whichever way you want.
You can still keep the PCM control in the circuit in case things go bad.
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