So stumped...
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New User
Joined: Jul 2020
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You will need to losen the jam nut then turn the fitting towards the front( you may need to turn counter clockwise if already to tight), of the truck and re tighten the jam nut. The fitting itself does not need to be super tight since the jam nut and o ring are what seals the fitting. Do not want to over tighten the fitting or the jam nut but jam nut needs to be tight enough to seal the o ring . Hope that makes since, let us know how you make out
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,860
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You will probably need to hold 90 degree or the 45 degree bend with a pair if pliers and then with a wrench tighten the jam nut. Sounds like you are turning the whole fitting with the jam nut that is backed all the out towards the 90 degree portion of the fitting. So just get the fitting where you want it to be and hold it with a pair of pliers and then proceed to tighten the jam nut to seat the oring in place.
on edit: it is easier to do this with the hpop line disconnected then once you have the fitting seated properly you can reinstall the hpop line onto the fitting
on edit: it is easier to do this with the hpop line disconnected then once you have the fitting seated properly you can reinstall the hpop line onto the fitting
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 898
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From: Tucson
When I replaced my HPOP lines recently I took out the turbo spider to make more room. That made it a whole lot easier to get to the fittings on the head. The fittings on the HPOP were harder for me since I didn't remove the fuel bowl. The fuel lines get in the way but it was just tiny turns at a time.
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New User
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Man so I tightened those up and the truck is running but still dumping oil from somewhere, only while the truck is running. So now it’s back to cleaning the valley, starting it and hopefully finding out where it’s coming from...
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2,860
Likes: 365
if you have a starter solenoid above your passenger fender you can take a push button switch run it from the positive post on the battery to the top post on the starter solenoid. When you push the button the truck will start turning over. This way you can push the button and look for leaks at the same time and not need a second person.
The plug on the solenoid will pull straight off
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New User
Joined: Jul 2020
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So here's what happened... Tightened the jamnuts going into the heads and made sure they were tight. Got the truck started and let it idle for a while and no leaks were seen. So... I drive it up to the gas station around the corner for a test drive and when driving, I hear a slight miss and then it starts leaking oil again. Back to square one. I have a suspicion that the oring on one of the jam nuts may have broke so i'll have to inspect those.
If so... does anyone know what size oring goes on those new CNC Fab jam nuts? Thanks
If so... does anyone know what size oring goes on those new CNC Fab jam nuts? Thanks
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New User
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Well... turns out it wasn’t the fittings.. or any of the fittings for that matter.
All of the HPOP fittings are solid, no leaks.
I cleaned out the valley, started the truck and let it idle for 40 minutes with NO LEAKS! As soon as I drive it around the block once, boom it starts leaking again and I can’t see where from. I know for a fact the HPOP fittings are dry. It seems like it only happens either when the truck gets hot enough or it’s under load that it starts leaking and then continues to leak at idle afterwards.
I really don’t want to spend a $1000 at a shop getting ripped off if I can do the work myself lol. Any other ideas?
My IPR is at 10.5 at idle and ICP is in the 450 range I believe.
All of the HPOP fittings are solid, no leaks.
I cleaned out the valley, started the truck and let it idle for 40 minutes with NO LEAKS! As soon as I drive it around the block once, boom it starts leaking again and I can’t see where from. I know for a fact the HPOP fittings are dry. It seems like it only happens either when the truck gets hot enough or it’s under load that it starts leaking and then continues to leak at idle afterwards.
I really don’t want to spend a $1000 at a shop getting ripped off if I can do the work myself lol. Any other ideas?
My IPR is at 10.5 at idle and ICP is in the 450 range I believe.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 159
Likes: 23
Well... turns out it wasn’t the fittings.. or any of the fittings for that matter.
All of the HPOP fittings are solid, no leaks.
I cleaned out the valley, started the truck and let it idle for 40 minutes with NO LEAKS! As soon as I drive it around the block once, boom it starts leaking again and I can’t see where from. I know for a fact the HPOP fittings are dry. It seems like it only happens either when the truck gets hot enough or it’s under load that it starts leaking and then continues to leak at idle afterwards.
I really don’t want to spend a $1000 at a shop getting ripped off if I can do the work myself lol. Any other ideas?
My IPR is at 10.5 at idle and ICP is in the 450 range I believe.
All of the HPOP fittings are solid, no leaks.
I cleaned out the valley, started the truck and let it idle for 40 minutes with NO LEAKS! As soon as I drive it around the block once, boom it starts leaking again and I can’t see where from. I know for a fact the HPOP fittings are dry. It seems like it only happens either when the truck gets hot enough or it’s under load that it starts leaking and then continues to leak at idle afterwards.
I really don’t want to spend a $1000 at a shop getting ripped off if I can do the work myself lol. Any other ideas?
My IPR is at 10.5 at idle and ICP is in the 450 range I believe.
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New User
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Is it possible to check that without tearing the whole thing apart? Time isn’t really on my side right now with my work being so busy lol.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
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From: Mcdonough, GA
Wrap paper towels around everything and go drive.
Good write up by @Jesser02EX on valley leaks. See the second post.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...he-valley.html
Good write up by @Jesser02EX on valley leaks. See the second post.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...he-valley.html
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,354
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
I have a suspected pedestal o-ring leak. I bought one of these endoscopes in order to track it down.
Maybe you know someone that has one you can borrow? Some connect directly to a smartphone.
AllAboutMPG has some suggestions for your immediate actions though.
There is a strong possibility the leak only presents itself when the oil pressure rises and is up to operating temperatures. This is not an uncommon thing to see.
Maybe you know someone that has one you can borrow? Some connect directly to a smartphone.
AllAboutMPG has some suggestions for your immediate actions though.
There is a strong possibility the leak only presents itself when the oil pressure rises and is up to operating temperatures. This is not an uncommon thing to see.